Hey guys! I just want to start by saying thank you for all of your help and suggestions.
So I bought some stuff........ to upgrade my suspension.........

The other two Koni should be here tomorrow. Waiting on UCAs, ball joints, rear toe arms, rear camber links, rear hub assemblies, front tie rods(inner and outer).

All suspension is currently off the car at the moment to put bushings in and paint while I wait for parts.
During removal I ran in to a little bit of a snag. The rear driver's side Toe mount..... the bolt and sleeve were fused together somehow....
I didn't realize it until it was too late. As it loosened it pushed the mount out thus leaving me with this........

TOTALLY SCREWED!!!!!!!

By the way, this is my car........

93 EG8

This is what I started with. She had a D15B7 and an auto transmission......

Now manual OBDII B18C1 with front and rear sway bar, front and rear disk brakes, GS-R front seats

Anyway, back to the subject at hand..... I know I'm going to have to cut the mount off of the donor car
or my old hatch back and spot weld it on here...... UNLESS!.... one of you Honda Gods out there
has an easier solution that isn't too ghetto..... lol. The adjustment nut is somewhere in that mount by the way.
Thanks for your time!

 

So I didn't realize they actually made adjustable rear toe links...... If I spot welded a nut in there, in a fixed position, do you think one of these kits would do the trick?
And if so, where would you suggest I weld the nut? Farthest position? Middle? Closest? Or should I just stick with welding another mount up there? And I apologize
If I posted this in the wrong forum. Couldn't decide between this and welding/fabrication.

 

the adjustable links actually have a huge range of adjustment, so you could weld a nut really just about anywhere in there. so my suggestion would be to weld it wherever you feel it will be the strongest.

the only problem is lineup. if the nut is welded at even the slightest angle, you're going to have a hell of a time getting the bolt back in without crossthreading, if you can even manage it. best bet for this would be to drill a hole on the bottom of the chassis below where the nut goes, big enough to fit a wrench up inside that will hold the nut. stick the bolt you'll use through teh first hole, then slide a metal sleeve of your choice of proper length to simulate the stock bushing (could use a stock bushing), slide bolt through that but not all the way through. then hold the nut in place with said wrench, slide bolt into nut, tighten the bolt. it'll flatten everything out and line it up flawlessly. then tack the nut in place however you can get access. then remove the bolt and finish welding the nut in place

 

Well I tackled that issue today. I have pics of everything but cant find my phone cord to load them on my laptop. Didn't have to cut or weld or anything. just used one of those extend-o-magnet antenna things and got bolt threaded. then tapped everything back in shape with a screwdriver and hammer. was a pain for real. took me about 4 hours. Got my other two Koni's today. cant wait to put it all together and see how she rides. As it stands, the only parts getting Energy suspension is front and back LCAs, shocks, and front end-links. Anyhow ill post pics later