SOLVED. You sir are a ******* genius! It was literally driving me nuts and after I did this it never died on idle again!

Hey guys, I just joined here because I feel you'd be much more of a help than all mechanics I've talked to. I own 1992 del sol, DOHC ZC, anyway ..

Problem started recently, car starts like it's brand new, works in idle PERFECTLY, pulls great and whatnot, however it recently cuts off while in idle and warm. Basically I can drive it for 45 mins or 10 hours doesnt matter, and if I then stop and let it idle, it will turn off in approximately 5 minutes, each and every time, rpm holds at exactly 850rpm, it doesnt drop rpms, it simply shuts off as if I personally turn it off, I can then simply turn it back on easily and continue where I left off.

TPS is adjusted at 0.48CT, however I noticed this morning it dropped to 0.47CT but I doubt it makes any difference because when CT ws 0.44 and 0.55 and 0.48 and 0.50 it always had the same issue.
IACV has been replaced and cleaned not even a 15 days ago.
Whole TB has been replaced as well because when swap was done I didnt had proper TB, now I do.
Sparks new, plugs maybe 6 months old or so. New oil, filter, fuel filter.

I just have no idea what could possibly be a problem, in a nutshell, when it's warm and you let it idle it shuts down as if I shut it down. I have checked that cilinder where key goes in, that's not an issue. Excuse my English I'm from Croatia. Thank you and hopefully someone here had the same problem so he can assist me. Thank you once again and have a nice day.

 

PGMFI relay. They are notorious to act up due to the solder of the board inside. Try that.

 

Thank you, is that relay the one next to fuse box, it has something like "mitsuba" written on it, says MAIN RELAY on it, has 8 pins, only 7 used though. Is there a way to test it?

 

Yeap, that's the one.

Main Relay Fix, Troubleshooting (Honda, Acura) and how to solder

 

Thank you, I'll try replacing it tommorow. If that doesnt fix it, where should I go from there?

 

there are other culprits to explore at techauto:

Honda Acura Essential Electrical Repair Website. Troubleshooting Main Relay, Coil, Igniter, etc.

 

If the relay doesn't fix it, it may be the ignitor or rotor button inside the distributor. The ignitor went out in my exGF's car at a stoplight and we had to tow the car home.

 

I can start the car up immediatelly after it cuts off though. I also replaced ICM like a month ago or so, it didnt even want to start back then and replacing it fixed the issue however recently when weather here started being really hot, up to 35 celsius, problems started when car got warm and in idle. Didnt have chance yet to replace the relay cause I'm waiting for it to arrive.

 

Yeah, if you already replaced the igniter, chances are...it's the relay. Even though you have a replacement on the way, you can remove the relay and open it up to inspect. The solder may have broken off or not making good contact. One thing I have done that has helped is remove the board and drill 1/4" holes on the plastic casing. This is for ventilation purposes only and actually helped out with overheating.

 

Thanks for advice I'm gonna do that right now, relay should be here in 2-4hours, I'll keep you updated and let you know if it fixed the issue, so in case someone else gets similar problem to at least know where to start of. I have tried re-soldering this one but it's a dead cause, I'm almost positive it's fucked up from the inside.

 

Damn, its not relay, same thing happened, drove it like 15km without stoping, stopped for 10 minutes, after 7th minute it jerked and was about to stall but somehow it recovered and stayed on (battery light turned on then off after it reached normal idle speed), then not a minute later it turned off. I was able to simply turn it back on, drove 3 more KM, stopped by the side of the road, 20 seconds later, turned off again, was able to simply turn it back on, then I was so pissed that I was just going straight home, I drove for next 13 or so KM and pulled next to my place, let it idle for 5 minutes, it didnt turn off. Dafuq is going on? Battery maybe? I guess the longer you drive the more it takes to turn off, if you obviously dont stop anywhere just straight driving.

All grounds are new, I even added 1 extra to gearbox ground just in case. Alternator has been replaced a year ago, could it be alternator issue not being able to hold it at idle? I just dont know where else to look? this has been pain in the *** and I'm losing patience because I have replaced every single thing and got this car completely wrecked up and rebuilt it myself, now it gives me this in return ... I'm all lost, any ideas are more than welcome! Thank you.

 

Also 1st time it jerked and was about to stall in 7th minute was when fan was about to kick in. Could it drain a lot of current voltage that batery simply doesnt add up or recharge?

 

Anyone? Replaced battery 130$ thrown to dust. Same issues, anyone care to share some insight? Thank you.

 

Sounds like a faulty alternator.The alternator isn't charging the battery then the car dies when the voltage drops to low (maybe 12 volts).This happened to my mate.

EDIT; To check,someone on here said: 'Grab a multi meter and check Voltage output while car is running. Should be 13v+, if it fluctuates under 12v then the Alternator isn't strong enough or is dying'

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-dies-3300769/

 

It can run for 10hours and if you let it idle it will die, warm only. Alternator has been replaced and dash lamp for it isnt on (guess it works then), nonetheless, charge on idle is 14.2, when everything is on at idle is 14.1 so I guess that rules out alternator, also battery is new and nothing flickers, it just dies...

 

When U replaced the ICM (ignitor) it came good for a month you said yeah,then when the weather got hot it played up again.I would replace the ICM again if that fixed it for that long and if it does the same thing then something is causing the ICM to foul up,faulty wiring or something.Best to test continuity of the related wires to see if there is a difference in voltage somewhere,They are sensitive 1 volt sensors so it dosen't take a lot to bugger em'.

 

ICM has died on me 2 months ago however it wouldnt fire at all, it wouldnt start and tacho would jump up and down etc. Now it dies however I can fire it up instantly, unsure how its ICM related or I got something wrong?

 

Ah I see,I would still check the wiring being that it's so random.May just have to take it to an auto electrician.

 

Its random however I can always replicate it, just warm up the car and let it idle, it will just die, and you can easily restart it and let it idle again until it dies.. No rpm drop no nothing, simply dead and all lights turn on (oil and battery).

 

Youtube has a few vids.Check battery connection,make sure it's good.OBD2 scaneer,set to record,after it dies read the data..

 

Battery and connection are new. Car is obd0, all I can pull out is error code 11 and 13 which I doubt will turn the car off imo, mind someone else sheeding some light on it?

 

Considering 11 is an ECU failure code, and 13 is a Baro code (which doesn't actually exist, meaning...ECU failure code) maybe you shouldn't doubt they would stop the car from running. Replace the ECU.

 

Isnt Code 11 is for a sensor called the IMA sensor? This is not USDM vehicle btw, I'm from Europe ... Or I'm reading that wrong too? 11 short flashes following 13 short flashes and then it repeats itself. ECU is PM7

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...0-ecu-3097979/

CRX Community Forum ? View topic - OBD0 ECU codes and more