350Z brembo rotors question
I'm going to follow the beaten path with my budget BBK project on '17 honda accord coupe touring - Advics calipers + 350Z rotors, Fastbrakes and Fat Four Customs offer suitable brackets. Fastbrakes add centering rings 66.1>64.1mm in their kit. And here comes my question: Are all center bore diameters on 350Z Track the same? Quite a few sources offer rotors with 68mm center bore for 350Z. Could American and European markets differ on this issue? (I'm in Poland)
By the way, I'm a layman as far as brakes are considered and may be wrong, but I think that reinforcing front brakes (even on a FWD car) creates some kind of imbalance between front and rear braking force. Do you think it would be possible to exchange the OEM rear rotors and calipers with the front ones that are left after a BBK mod? Thx in advance for your advice and opinions.
By the way, I'm a layman as far as brakes are considered and may be wrong, but I think that reinforcing front brakes (even on a FWD car) creates some kind of imbalance between front and rear braking force. Do you think it would be possible to exchange the OEM rear rotors and calipers with the front ones that are left after a BBK mod? Thx in advance for your advice and opinions.
My Accord is a 94 but I have looked into the 350Z rotors and the Fastbrake adapters. I thought the 350Z rotors had a 68mm center bore, but when it comes to international parts, it could be different. But I would be very surprised if it were.
Yes, you can create an imbalance. I upgraded my rears at the same time I upgraded my front brakes. Fastbrakes also has a kit for that. As for as exchanging front to rear, no. They are very different.
Yes, you can create an imbalance. I upgraded my rears at the same time I upgraded my front brakes. Fastbrakes also has a kit for that. As for as exchanging front to rear, no. They are very different.
My Accord is a 94 but I have looked into the 350Z rotors and the Fastbrake adapters. I thought the 350Z rotors had a 68mm center bore, but when it comes to international parts, it could be different. But I would be very surprised if it were.
Yes, you can create an imbalance. I upgraded my rears at the same time I upgraded my front brakes. Fastbrakes also has a kit for that. As for as exchanging front to rear, no. They are very different.
Yes, you can create an imbalance. I upgraded my rears at the same time I upgraded my front brakes. Fastbrakes also has a kit for that. As for as exchanging front to rear, no. They are very different.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
I used the 12.8" (324mm) 06 350Z Track edition rotors. My car is a 06 TSX.
Yes...there is way too much front bias, and the pedal does not feel as solid. But the brakes are very good, and the rotors no longer pulsate after a few hard stops.
I also love the way they look. So...they're staying on, despite their shortcomings. Unless I can find a Brembo TL-S setup.
Another alternative for me might be to swap over to a TL type S master cylinder. Though, I am not sure how the piston sizing compares. Maybe I'll find a cheap one and dissect it.
Have you tried just using an agressive pad compound to get better braking? Or is this for looks?
Yes...there is way too much front bias, and the pedal does not feel as solid. But the brakes are very good, and the rotors no longer pulsate after a few hard stops.
I also love the way they look. So...they're staying on, despite their shortcomings. Unless I can find a Brembo TL-S setup.
Another alternative for me might be to swap over to a TL type S master cylinder. Though, I am not sure how the piston sizing compares. Maybe I'll find a cheap one and dissect it.
Have you tried just using an agressive pad compound to get better braking? Or is this for looks?
Well, actually, I don't have my ride in the yard yet - I'm still waiting for it to be shipped from NY. The look is pretty important to me, but I never do anything to my car which doesn't work properly. Could you be a bit more specific about the shortcomings you've mentioned? What does " too much front bias" mean in details? I thought 30mm rotors would make 'the pedal feel solid". I've been thinking of ebc red stuff to start with - I'll see if I need more agressive pads.
By the way, what is the center bore of your rotors? My local Rotinger and Stoptech dealers say they can offer 68mm center diameter rotors only and are pretty sure there are no others...
By the way, what is the center bore of your rotors? My local Rotinger and Stoptech dealers say they can offer 68mm center diameter rotors only and are pretty sure there are no others...
I noticed this too on my Accord, but after driving it a while, and driving other cars with a "stiff" pedal, I find I prefer the soft feel. The brakes are just as good and it is a little easier to modulate the force. They don't grab in a sudden stop like my BMW does.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
I guess I'll need to measure my bore. the specs I could find are:Bolt Circle Diameter:4.5 in
Bolt Hole Quantity:5
Discard Thickness:28.4 mm
Height:1.93 in
Nominal Thickness:30 mmOutside Diameter:
12.76 in
Rotor thickness will not add or subtract from pedal stiffness or feel.
The piston area, and, ultimately, volume of the RL caliper is a lot larger than the stock caliper piston. That difference will mean you'll need to push the master cylinder piston further to fill the volume of those pistons.
This is offset a small amount by the fact that a fixed caliper requires less piston movement and is stiffer than a floating caliper.
But the pedal is still not as solid as with the stock calipers.
Why are you guys worried about on/off brakes? Are your stock calipers on/off?
You're going from the stock feel (solid) to a more spongy feel that produces more clamping force. The stock brakes are linear. These have a different rate of gain...so you'll need to get used to it.
You're also moving a ton of effective brake bias to the front.
Its a looks mod more than function, though it WILL help for repeated high temp stops at the track, at the expense of brake feel and bias. But you're planning on using EBC red pads...which means you're just street driving it.
Bolt Hole Quantity:5
Discard Thickness:28.4 mm
Height:1.93 in
Nominal Thickness:30 mmOutside Diameter:
12.76 in
Rotor thickness will not add or subtract from pedal stiffness or feel.
The piston area, and, ultimately, volume of the RL caliper is a lot larger than the stock caliper piston. That difference will mean you'll need to push the master cylinder piston further to fill the volume of those pistons.
This is offset a small amount by the fact that a fixed caliper requires less piston movement and is stiffer than a floating caliper.
But the pedal is still not as solid as with the stock calipers.
Why are you guys worried about on/off brakes? Are your stock calipers on/off?
You're going from the stock feel (solid) to a more spongy feel that produces more clamping force. The stock brakes are linear. These have a different rate of gain...so you'll need to get used to it.
You're also moving a ton of effective brake bias to the front.
Its a looks mod more than function, though it WILL help for repeated high temp stops at the track, at the expense of brake feel and bias. But you're planning on using EBC red pads...which means you're just street driving it.
You're also moving a ton of effective brake bias to the front.
Its a looks mod more than function, though it WILL help for repeated high temp stops at the track, at the expense of brake feel and bias. But you're planning on using EBC red pads...which means you're just street driving it.
Its a looks mod more than function, though it WILL help for repeated high temp stops at the track, at the expense of brake feel and bias. But you're planning on using EBC red pads...which means you're just street driving it.
As for the function, it's true I track my cars occassionally. Still, I do.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
It must have been discussed hundrets of times, but being new to the problem, I'd like to know if there exists any honda-like kit (like the one I'm putting on the front) that would move effective brake bias to the rear as well. Are there any bigger honda/acura rotors that could replace my stock 11.1/0.35 rear ones?
As for the function, it's true I track my cars occassionally. Still, I do.
As for the function, it's true I track my cars occassionally. Still, I do.
You'll need to join your upgrades with different master cylinder piston sizing to do it correctly. Similar to civic guys that upgrade to ITR brakes and then use an ITR booster/MC setup. I do not know that an off the shelf solution exists for 2017 model Accords. The 07-08 USDM TL type S MC, maybe?
But there is a burning question:
Why don't you just use your stock calipers?
If you're looking for function at the track....
-Buy blank rotors. Whatever brand.
-Buy track pads for your stock calipers.
-Mate those pads and rotors together and use them at the track. Use a different pad/rotor setup for street driving.
-use high temp fluid.
EBC may or may not make track pads. The EBC yellow is not a track pad (say it with me). Neither is the EBC red.
Track pads can be found from Carbotech (XP line), Hawk (DTC/blue/black), Cobalt (XR line), G-Loc, etc etc. TRACK pads should not be used on the street.
Or maybe you only want ONE set of brakes:
-Blank rotors. Whatever brand.
-Nobody really makes a true "dual use" pad...but the Stoptech Sport gets close to bein able to do street/track use. If you pair a stoptech sport with a BBK, then...yeah, it can probably be used confidently on track. I guess the same can be said for yellows. But...be careful. Neither of them is a track pad.
-use high temp fluid.
Or try to find a BBK thats street friendly and has the correct piston sizing for your stock master cylinder.
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