So I'm going to throw in some P73-00 pistons into my GSR block, should net a CR around 11.3:1. Im looking for some input (from experienced people please) about which components would work best with this set up , in terms of intake and cams. I originally wanted to use the Skunk 2 tuner 1s with upgraded VT of course and an Edelbrock Perf. X manifold port matched to a 70mm TB. The motor is currently in my daily so Im looking for a cam that will carry my powerband from mid-range (around 4-4500 rpm) to top end , close to redline . I've been trying to get some input on other cams that people use , but most of the people around me are either B20V or going K so they're no help. Anybody have any positive experience with other cams ? Again I'm not looking for high horsepower numbers , but rather a smooth , functional powerband I can use without always screaming to redline. Also , for this set up should I use bigger injectors ? And if so what size ? It's going to running on pump 93

Thanks for any help !!

 

There's a bunch of different cams that will work wel (do a search on best cams for stock type r) if you are planning on upgrading the VT maybe go with tuner2's over the tuner1's.

I would suggest rdx injectors with k tuned top hats and a walbro 255 fuel pump. What header and exhaust are you running?

 

I've seen people discuss rocket motorsport and Jun cams but from the site I use (JHP) neither of those are available. Skunk doesn't have tuner 2's anymore (unless I can find a secondhand pair, but I'm iffy on those) and they've told me Tuner 1s would work good with my goals. I've also come across some Brian Crower Stg 2 street cams but can't find any info on those in relation to what I'm doing. 'm using the PLM 4-2-1 Toda Rep to a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust w/ a 2.5" cat.

 

Anyone try the GSC N1 cams ? Seems to be in the ballpark of what I'm looking for and apparently theyre reputable even though GSC mostly works on who's.

 

Any stage one NA cams will be good. I had the very first skunk cams that came out way back in the early 2000. Car ran good but it definitley needed a tune. Went from 14.8 1/4(ek-gsr motor with itr pistons) to 14.2 with the cams and after the tune i was running 13.7s. I had 4-1 dc itr headers and 1st gen s2 im. Why stage 1? Because you wont have enough compression to run big cams. Ex. My friend at the same time built a gsr w p30 pistons and s2 tuner 2 cams. He went and got tuned and they told him he was over cammed. With itr pistons and skunk cams i made 191whp my buddy made something like 196 or 199 but his torque curver was more linear than his during the first tune. After he switched to tuner 1 he was over 200whp. Complete 4dr gsr running 14.0 on street tires!! Good luck! Key is in the tune

 

 

lmaooo it should've read Evos* , autocorrect got me again and I was exhausted replykng . But I contacted them , there one of those upgraded Type R style cams so there in the same category with the skunk 2 tuner 1s.

 

That's exactly why I wanted to run a stage 1 , I didn't wanna over cam the motor seeing as I'm running stock type R compression , well a little higher because of my P72 head. I'm gonna be having it tuned using S300 and my tuner is pretty good at what he does so I'm sure he'll make the most amount of power I could. When I go higher CR I'm gonna use a more aggressive cam, probably the Pro 1 so that's gonna ba whole different plan.

 

I gotcha..

To correct a little, GSC is known most for their Supra 2JZ-GTE and MR-2 3S-GTE camshafts even more than those made for the 4G63 for the last 15 years. It's the Evolution crowd that they hold the most popularity with.

 

tuner 1 and gsc n1 arent bad choices. youll get more usable power from those two cams since they're smaller. later though you may want bigger after you get used to the power you'll have from the smaller cams.

 

Yeah the guy I talked to own the phone even said it himself haha but I did a comparison of their specs, the GSC's seem to have a higher lift and duration than the Tuner 1s so I'm really leaning towards these. I'll be the first of those around me to actually use cams other than Blox , Type R, or Skunk 2. I think these cams will bring out some good power paired with my intake/exhaust set up.

 

you arent the first to not use s2 or blox.

 

true, I meant the first around amongst my peers, should've specified.

 

Yeah, that's Jersey for ya. Nothing against Jersey, but hyper-ego seems to rule over innovation or willingness to try new things.

 

haha shodan ive noticed that as well.

 

Nothing but the truth , everybody up here does the same thing B20V, H2B, or K in a cut up shell. I asked a shop about building my motor when I first did the swap and they guy really told me to sell my block and get a B20. I told him I wanted to keep my GSR and do something different and he just casually said "well have fun wasting money trying to be different"...I think everybody now is becoming oobsessed with being "stock block kings" and making the most power as if that's the only thing that matters when racing

 

That's very true. You can do much more with the GS-R block than the B20 if one is willing to put in the time and effort. You can easily use the same Crankshaft as the B20 with only about 10ft/lbs of torque loss between the two, with half the headaches a B20 would present. NJ/NY wants BIG POWER.. Nothing about reliable powerband.

 

I'm glad we share a similar opinion , GSR is my favorite of the Bseries swap and I think it gets under looked because people are lazy and don't take the time to research what they can use to make power effectively without using a motor with a high displacement.

 

without a sleeving the block, thats not an accurate statement. just recently, i met a dude running high 11's on stock b20 block making 230whp with cams and methanol and minor headwork( not ported).

 

You can't think one-dimensionally. We use torque in the real world, and simply boring the engine (using sleeves) 3mm is not the end of the world. With the GS-R, we use the B20 Crankshaft and rods, add additional compression with higher knock resistant fuels, in order to hit similar goals. 3mm gets about 20lbs-ft of torque while increasing the stroke can change that to over 60lbs-ft. Power can still be created in a more practical setting. Not just gutted-out "maxxed" hatches at a drag-strip.

Perhaps I look at things outside of drag-racing in the All-motor community.

 

so from changing the cranks from 87.2mm to 89mm yields a substantial amount of torque while still with a smaller bore? remember you need compression and usually a b20 crank to hit over 200 with stock cams. ive made over 200 with stock b20 block and just the ctr cams alone, with of course the higher octane. creating torque isnt a problem since i know the concept of TB opening and intake manifold runners and the sizing as well as the plenum and the concept of its function, header and picking the correct camshaft using proper LCs.

in the circle of people that build engines, we typically see over 200 whp on stock b20 blocks. the last stock block setup with pro 1 cams made 208 with stock gsr head and skunk2 ultra street and 150 tq. your done up 1.8s dont typically see that amount of torque without extensive headwork and compression even though i have seen close to 150 torque on 81mm bore 1.8s.

 

Yes. It still makes torque while keeping the smaller bore. I've done this almost 10 years ago already on my wife's setup.
Higher compression was already a given, because.... well, All-Motor Section. Most B20Bs drop things down to about 8.8, which really sucks.
The higher torque you're seeing with the stock head and ultra street had maximum torque at a higher rpm level. Again, for practical applications outside of straight line drag racing, you want that at a lower rpm level.

The point of this wasn't that it couldn't be done, it was the fact that the GS-R block is more easily versatile than the B20. Better cylinder construction, ability to gain torque with the addition of an LS/B20 crankshaft and oil squirter block kit, you can utilize oil and water coolers more easily than a B20, as the freeze-plugs allow for better adapters to work with it. and the best part, NO F**KING "LS/VTEC CONVERSION KITS!!

 

ok shodan i understand you've been in the game for a while and you have more experience that me. however, to say the gsr block is more versatile is subjective to say the least because if the b20a crank was interchangeable with the b20b block, then thats just another step ahead of the b18c it will be as far as potential. the only thing we can really say is that you can be on the edge with 83mm without issues whereas with the b20b block, 85mm is pushing it. so yea, construction of the gsr block ill agree is better.

with the b20 setup making 208 and 150tq the power was linear as it was using pro1 cams, so the graph was very flat. power was linear and very responsive. my b20 vtec with half-assed ported head and half-assed type r IM and ctr cams was also very responsive even before the e85 and made over 200 whp. never got to see what it would make with cams.


hope you dont take this as disrespect or as me being argumentative.

 

No. Not at all. No offense taken. But I think that you haven't seen what these "GLSR"s are capable of, and therefore can be stuck within your own experience. You're still just concentrating on bore capability and not the overall utility of the package. with the GSR, I can get just about the same amount as a B20 VTEC without the need of an LS/VTEC kit, (which always adds some risk to the equation for the average builder), still retain up to over 140-150ft/lbs of torque in a broad rpm range, while still going safely to 82mm. Sure, not going to 85 or 86 isn't possible, but again, as a practical matter, depending upon the purpose, there are other ways to make that up from the 2-3mm difference of the bore alone.

I can also run the OEM oil/water cooler, go to a different oil cooler setup, convert to turbochager without the need of an additional sandwich plate, and still retain maximum utility without starting over.

I guess I look at this as though I were putting this together from scratch when it comes to the idea of "versatility". I think you're believing that I'm using that term in order to gain MAXIMUM POWER. That's not the definition of versatility.

Again, (forgive the pun) different strokes for different folks.

 

ok cool, just wondering. dont mean to step on any toes. i mean, i get max power so to speak with the b20 block but also get more out of a given camshaft spec too with the bore, hence why type r cams on b20 vtecs typically peak sooner . i loved how my b20 vtec felt (i know, feel is subjective) with just type r cams and e85. bottom end torque and midrange was lovely. on the highway, i never had to come out of 5th gear and even in city limits, putting around in 5th was still good. i never got to put aftermarket cams in it to see what it would do from there. i wouldnt mind doing an 83mm all motor gsr and maybe some spray lol