Hey all,

I have a distributor with a bad cylinder position sensor on my 2001 accord 4cylinder sulev. I got a replacement from the pick n pull, installed it and it didn't work. I pulled it out and noticed the flange just below the notched part that goes inside the engine was bent. That's weird I thought, so I returned it and got another one from an even nicer looking donor car. I installed it and it doesn't fire up. I pull the distributor out and notice it's bent too! I bent it apparently... I am super confused at this point since I made sure the notches lined up upon installation and it installed just fine with no resistance. How did I !@#% it up? It's so simple...

I grabbed my original and compared the distributors, they are identical. I put the original back in, it clicked right in and fired up (but still throwing a cylinder position code).

When I attempt this buffoonery again, what do I do to make sure I don't !@#% it up?

 

If you mean the keyway that interlocks into the camshaft, it is offset a bit and can be forced on. If you do this the distributor will be 180° out and will not start. Did you verify the rotor was pointing in the same direction when installing the used distributors?

 

just look inside and match it up with the notch on the distributor, it is offset as Mike said

 

I was lining up the notch on the keyway to the notch on the camshaft, is that correct? I must have put them on backwards. Notch to notch, right?

 

Look very carefully at the notch on the distributor. You will see it's not completely symmetrical. It's offset a tad.

 

So just to clarify the notch on the distributor keyway will line up with the notch on the camshaft? I've watched vids and checked the manual, that tiny detail seemed glossed over.

 

Look at the back of the distributor keyway. The two teeth that stick up from the circle do not bisect the diameter. It is along a chord of the circle right next to the diameter. If you look at the two circular segments on each side of the teeth you will note one is slightly smaller than the other. This is because the teeth are offset.

 

I think we're making this way to easy for the OP.

 

I would just get a new one from ebay it's under $60

Also you CAN'T put it in the wrong way, you'd have to force it in. And I hope your common sense would kick indicating something is not right and you should stop before serious damage happens.

From my past experience, the f22b2 is the engine I found where the dist. can go in 180 degrees off. Thanks heavens honda got rid of that hot mess.

 

When the teeth begin to engage it's also when the O ring is starting to get pressed into the head. Inexperience may lead you to believe the O-ring is the resistance and you try to shove it on and end up cracking the teeth off. Some folks don't realize working on vehicles requires a bit more finesse than force.
All the F series single cam slammers are like that.

 

Well that's why I was totally flumoxed... as I didn't really feel any force required to put it in wrong, it clicked in just the same as the original did. I just want to make perfectly sure I put the next one in correctly.

I ordered one off 1aauto, they had a great price. $70 bucks.

 

For the p1381 code - you really should check the alternator. A bad diode pattern can cause electrical interference that will set the p1381.

So while you are waiting on the new dist to arrive.......clear the code, unplug the four pin connector from the back of the alt and drive the car - yes you need to be careful since the alt will not be charging the battery. Does the p1381 code come back?

You ignored or never answered this question a few days ago. It is a simple test

 

It will charge the battery. It just won't be operating in low output mode, which means you will use a tiny bit more gas than usual.

 

Ok, just old school thinking. If you do not "excite" the regulator on the old GM cars - where I grew up - then you got no output from the alt. Since then many have made a "one wire" alt where there is no "battery voltage" needed to trip the regulator.

So help me learn more by telling me how the 6th gen Accord's alternator works

 

Sorry, I've been busy installing new bearings, pads and rotors on the rear of my accord.

I have heard about the alternator/pull the wire trick before, but don't understand it. If I pull that wire and drive around, will I drain the battery and need a jumpstart if I shut the car off?

 

Everything you need to know about honda alternators here

http://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/view...text=auto_pres

 

Actually Poorman212 is correct. Driver side dash Fuse No. 6 (15A) and the Blk/Yel (IG) wire supplies the ignition input that turns on the alternator/regulator assembly. The Blk/Yel wire for the IG circuit is part of the 4 pin alternator connector. Without 12 volts coming from the Blk/Yel wire, the regulator assembly does not get energized; and can and will cause a no charge issue.

Even the referenced link includes that information.

 

You are not puling the "charge wire" - you are pulling the four pin connector (green I think) from the back of the alt.

Look I know I could be way off in left field but what does it hurt to verify that a replacement dist is really needed . Read the attached and give it a try....again what is it going tohurt, cost to try it. I'd really hate to hear the replacement dist still gives the same code.

 

That's really strange since, while I've never unplugged the connector to test, people on here have and none that I recall have experienced a no charge issue. Perhaps it wasn't running long enough for it to present itself.

You would think the alternator would always be running at full output except when told to run in low output.

 

In the above diagram it specifically states to drive the vehicle with the connector unplugged. I don't see how that would be possible if the alternator wasn't operating.

 

Again, with no "reference" voltage to the regulator to "excite it" - my term - then the regulator is basically "dead" and nothing happens.

That is just the idea, by unplugging the four pin connector you are basically taking the alt "out" of the equation.....like unplugging an O2 sensor. So if the alt is "out of the equation" and the P1381 does not come back....well

 

It would seem more logical that the alternator is still working but it's taking a particular component of the alternator out of the equation, since the car doesn't immediately die from unplugging the alternator.

But tech8 is very knowledgable so I'm sure you guys are correct.

 

Look, we are here trying to help the OP/ So let's drop this and let the OP follow a simple test from a Honda TSB I already admitted that I could be way off in left field with a guess here but I like to explore all "known" issues/testing procedures before just replacing parts.

Done, nothing else between you and I......It is all about the OP.

 

OP here, thanks for everyones help and thanks to the whole board.. this has been a huge resource for me and has helped me get my ailing accord back on the road. I'm always looking to do things the smart (cheap) way. I'm also working on this on the weekends if I'm lucky as work and family dominate all. The car is up on all fours again and I am bent over the wheel hubs for my next few sessions... new dizzy is on the way.

I will try unplugging the 4-pin from the alternator next chance I can to see if the code is repeated. The behavior of the car when it throws a code is detectable, it has a misfire/stall, keeps driving and throws a code. The dizzy had a bad seal and was drinking oil for who knows how long. I cleaned it out as best i could but no luck.

 

Why are you getting all bent out of shape ? I actually had no issue with you at all until just now. I even operated under the assumption that you both were right. You need to reread my posts and instead of assuming I'm saying it in a dick manner, assume I'm saying it in a normal manner. You should see you are misinterpreting my replies to you.