Admin...I didn't see where else to put this post and I understand if it gets moved or deleted. I know the following isn't technical questions but, I feel the listed product may be very beneficial for anyone who's interested.

My car: 1995 Civic EX coupe with JDM B20b engine. M/T. OBD1 p75 ECU.

I recently purchased this: Hondash and downloaded the associated app for it: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...ondash.hondash . It's made in Slovakia by a guy named Milos. Price is U.S.$60 including shipping (to Florida) and the associated app is free. I tried it out for the first time today and it paired up (bluetooth) quickly and after recieving a unique identifier (UID) code from Milos it's working very well. I will post videos of live data capabilities and results within a week or so. There's videos on the Hondash webpage as well.

I am in no way associated or profit from this product. There's very limited options for OBD1 live data and this tool can be use for both OBD1 and OBD2 via the ECU's DLC connector. Just thought I'd share this info for anyone considering purchasing an affordable live data reader.

 

I thought I actually just recently saw something about this and I recall responding that I would be willing to try it out once I am in the position to purchase it.

As it stands, this device has been known for a few years now in the tuning section:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine...ndash-3228137/

None, the less, it's the most economical obd1 scanner available to us.

 

Yes..I posted it a few weeks ago during a throttle body/high rev issue I was having. At that time I just learned about and decided to purchase it.

 

Let us know how it goes. Pics too.

 

The only problem is that it relies on Honda's data protocol which means chipped ECUs don't work (at least according to the seller).

I was really tempted to give it a try anyways but he wasn't into the possibility of a return if it didn't work.
-Sean

 

Just checked their site and it appears they are discovering some chipped ECUs work and some don't. But still it's basically buy at your own risk...

Hondash: Aftermarket / Chipped ECU

 

In the post it says it works with s300 chipped ecus'.

 

I'm surprised he wouldn't offer a refund if it didn't work with your chipped ECU.
I messaged with him yesterday and he is planning to release and app update within a couple months that will include (among others) an audible alarm to notify engine temps above operating temps..can manually input the deisred temp to engage alarm.

 

Android only, eh? No iOS...

 

Yeah I was a bit bummed. I have an old Kenji chipped P05 (converted to P28-spec) ECU and that guy is impossible to get ahold of these days. I have no idea what software he was using.

 

He has that disclaimer on his site. Not only that he stressed in my email to him because an ecu I'm running wasn't on the list but other jdm ecu's were on it. It should be basic know how by now to do research if the product will work with your ecu, or take the risk.

 

That seems to be a completely different set up.

 

Looks like still no iOS.

 

Bumping an old thread to update. About 2 years ago I purchased one of these units along with an OBD1 to OBD2A (reverse) ECU conversion harness from speed-factory for my 94. I'de had the JDM P73-013 ecu that came with my swap sitting in a box gathering dust for decades. I installed the reverse harness and installed the P73 along with a properly grounded shield-wire for the knock sensor from the shock tower down to the ECU plug. The car runs much better with the OEM ECU and now I can take advanate of the knock retard for our crappy 91 octane gas (or mix some 100). Now theres no more ticking acceleration on very hot days, and no more fluctuating idle that I had with the old Kenji chipped ECU.

The Hondash unit works great with the OEM ECU. The only issue is the 3-pin DLC plug has constant power which means the unit had to be un-plugged once the car was shut off. What I did was de-pin the center white/red wire and cover its terminal with heat shrink. Then I installed a spare terminal-pigtail in its place and ran a wire over to the accessory-power port on the under-dash fuse box (right-side orange plug in picture). You can solder a regular spade terminal coverd in heat-shrink onto the end of your wire and it will push right onto flat copper blade inside the port. This provides the Hondash with accessory power when the car is turned on. Now I leave the unit plugged in all the time and have it tucked up under the dash. This port is driven through the 15A radio fuse #19.