Hard jerking
2001 Accord EX. 4cyl. 157k miles.
When my car sits for awhile overnight or at work, the first time I go into D, it hesitates for 1 second, jerks, and then moves. Idles smoothly. Then when I go to a light or stop sign to see if it happens again, it doesn't. I put it in park, then drive, runs fine. No hesitation. Shifts like it's supposed to. What's the issue?
When my car sits for awhile overnight or at work, the first time I go into D, it hesitates for 1 second, jerks, and then moves. Idles smoothly. Then when I go to a light or stop sign to see if it happens again, it doesn't. I put it in park, then drive, runs fine. No hesitation. Shifts like it's supposed to. What's the issue?
First cold start, Fast idle thermovalve has a adjustment for slamming into gear. If it is heat related.
Caliper could be seizing pad to rotor dragging at first.
Brake pedal switch could be causing a elevated idle bump when overcoming the shifter interlock release with the selector.
Caliper could be seizing pad to rotor dragging at first.
Brake pedal switch could be causing a elevated idle bump when overcoming the shifter interlock release with the selector.
I'm not knowledgeable unfortunately about cars so I apologize. I also checked the transmission fluid thinking it may be it. It's brown, but not burnt. I couldn't smell any burning. When I push on the pedal, it sounds like it's "wheezing" or "whining" but it shifts to other gears fine. It's an automatic. This literally just started happening about a week ago.
Fix the CEL.
Let the car fully warm up and idle down before placing it into gear next time and note if it still slams into gear.
If so it's probably the internal seals are no longer keeping the drive circuits full with fluid and it takes a moment for the drive circuit to charge with fluid.
Let the car fully warm up and idle down before placing it into gear next time and note if it still slams into gear.
If so it's probably the internal seals are no longer keeping the drive circuits full with fluid and it takes a moment for the drive circuit to charge with fluid.
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Fix the CEL.
Let the car fully warm up and idle down before placing it into gear next time and note if it still slams into gear.
If so it's probably the internal seals are no longer keeping the drive circuits full with fluid and it takes a moment for the drive circuit to charge with fluid.
Let the car fully warm up and idle down before placing it into gear next time and note if it still slams into gear.
If so it's probably the internal seals are no longer keeping the drive circuits full with fluid and it takes a moment for the drive circuit to charge with fluid.
Is that a pricey fix?
How are your front and rear engine mounts? Your engine may be moving around the engine bay if they're broken, which would affect shift points. Also, I would do a couple of drain & fills with Honda ATF if the fluid is brown.
You need to pull the code that is initiating the CEL.
Find out what the code is, not the description.
Post back here for further diagnostics.
An ill running engine greatly affects how the transmission operates.
Find out what the code is, not the description.
Post back here for further diagnostics.
An ill running engine greatly affects how the transmission operates.
Hard jerking! Penalty 3 nights no X play.
Just put me away somewhere.
The cel is probably going to keep you out of closed loop too.
The coolant is more of a major input than O2 at cold start.
Weezing hissing whistling etc is a sound I relate with a vaccuum leak.
Just put me away somewhere.
The cel is probably going to keep you out of closed loop too.
The coolant is more of a major input than O2 at cold start.
Weezing hissing whistling etc is a sound I relate with a vaccuum leak.
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dragracer7383
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Nov 12, 2007 01:40 PM





