As the title states, the transmission will bang hard into reverse and grind the entire time it is in reverse. It'll go backwards, but certainly not up a hill without puckering your sphincter and hoping for the best. At first it slipped a little but no grinding. Then it started to lightly pop into reverse. Now the big bang and grind, which is something I'd rather be doing with Jessica Alba, not my transmission.

I have checked all solenoids and cleaned them, although they were spotless as is my fluid (was clean when I bought the car at 195K for $800 from an old lady and I replaced it anyway with Honda fluid).

Normally I'd just say screw it and dump the thing but it runs perfectly and I've done a bunch of work to it to get it nice and safe to hand over to a cousin when he turns 16. I did not plan for a transmission swap.

I suspect, based upon my research, that it is the reverse selector gear teeth that have gotten rounded off somehow. Car has 200K miles now and I've done a complete front suspension and brake refresh (all bushings, all bearings, pads, rotors, wheel bearings... one was a little grindy). It has older CV axles and no history of them being replaced in the records, but I rebuilt them with new boots and they seem fine. I don't really suspect CV axles would be the cause of grinding ONLY in reverse... that doesn't make much sense. Also did a valve adjustment, timing belt, water bump, steering rack (it was really sloppy but didn't leak, go figure), alternator (it stopped working outside of Charlotte and stranded me conveniently next to an Autozone that had one in stock so I replaced it in the parking lot... gotta love simple cars!), and a new muffler. So clearly I have stupidly put money into this thing, but I wanted my cousin (his family is cash strapped to put him and his brother in good schools - not many good public schools in the Atlanta area) to have a car and it's been fun tinkering with it. Parts are pretty cheap and so I kind of made it a little hobby, probably went too far with an old car like this but... when you're having fun, you're having fun.

FWIW, when I rotate the wheels while it's in the air you hear a constant clicking from the transmission where the CV axles connect. I suppose that could just be normal or its the problem, no idea.

I can unbolt and bolt back up just about anything but rebuilding a compact FWD transmission without knowing EXACTLY what parts I need and EXACTLY the step-by-step is beyond me. There are like 20 rebuild kits all with different parts in them and I'm lost there. I have a Haynes manual but I always find those things lacking. I really need a Step 1, Step 2, Step 3 unbolt this, then unbolt that, then remove this - 100% of the steps in dummy language.

Anyway, I guess my question is - is there a recommended source from which I can get a full replacement transmission. I feel like one around 120K or less should be something like $400 at worst, but I'm seeing much higher pricing. I'm in the Atlanta area, if it matters. I've called junk yards but they're like well we have a few of them out there you have to go look and when I do they're cars with just as much mileage as the one I have. Car is kind of worthless with a degrading transmission, I figure.

Car presently has 200K miles. Runs like a champ. Wish they had a 5th gear, tho - runs a little high up in the RPM range.

 

Well I've realized that perhaps instead it is the rear motor mount. I replaced all motor mounts but for some reason when the car goes into reverse, the entire rear motor mount extends significantly and the transmission makes contact with the rear subframe. Perhaps I got a bad motor mount or somehow the engine has shifted on the mounts backwards.

 

If the diaphragm for the rear mount is not connected or the vacuum controls are no longer functioning then the rear mount can allow excessive slop. Verify the vacuum hose is connected to the diaphragm(mount) and the control solenoid on the firewall.
It is a multi chambered hydro mount. In gear with the brakes applied the mount will 'float' the engine to prevent engine vibrations into the cabin. When the car is allowed to move the mount will solidify via the vacuum controls by reducing the hydro mounts chamber size. A valve controlled by the vacuum diaphragm mounted on the side of the mount, which is controlled via an electric solenoid mounted on the firewall, which is fed vacuum from the intake manifold. Solenoid is activated by the ECU. All AT cars have this. MT cars use a simple rubber and steel mount(which looks like the hydro mount).

With a stock exhaust and a new front mount(really a limiter) you would probably not notice the mount not functioning.

You may hear some clicking from the differential with the engine off while spinning the wheels, but is should not be excessive nor should there be any binding.

 

I determined tonight the transmission is fine. It is the rear lower motor mount that separated causing the transmission to literally hit and rest against the subframe. I installed it 5,000 miles ago. Anchor is the brand name, from Rock Auto. Piece of garbage. Also caused the driver-side engine mount to fail (it sags so much now it bottoms out). If you raise the vehicle and put the car in reverse the transmission makes no noise. If you support the engine so the transmission doesn't hit the subframe with the car on the ground... guess what?! No grinding, no banging, reverse works fine.

So I put a thick piece of high temp hose rubber in-between the transmission and the subframe for now - wedged it in there good. Guess what... nooooo grinding, noooo banging.

Absolute garbage crap motor mount is the cause. And of course the flippin' hardest one to get to. Absolutely ridiculous. I'm betting that motor mount was bad when I put it in and I didn't notice.

They are warrantying the part but I'm expecting it to fail again given how quick this happened. So pissed off.

 

I've used Anchor brand before, never had a problem. Comparing my original rear mount to the Anchor replacement they both had all the same witness and paint marks, I would not be surprised if Anchor is an OEM supplier to Honda.

Before blaming the mount, verify the vacuum controls to the rear mount are hooked up and functioning.
Without the vacuum controls hooked up and functioning the mount will be in the full soft or 'float' mode. This will allow excessive engine movement which will eventually kill the front limiter mount and then stretch out and damage the rear mount.

 

The rear mount is completely separated. It isn't stretching, it's broken in half.

 

Do the vacuum controls for the vacuum controlled hydro mount function?
If the mount never stiffens then it will stretch and tear the front limiter mount, when the limiter fails the rear mount will then rip itself apart.
This will continue to happen unless it is verified that the vacuum controls are functioning and the diaphragm on the mount moves the lever on the mount to stiffen it.

 

anchor is garbage, seriously. just buy oem mounts unless you wanna do it again and again, which you will be. beck arnley is ..ok. don't forget not all aftermarket front mount have a working vacuum thing a majig. I was looking at them on ebay and some state (no vacuum) or something. that's why I bought all oem. the side mount by the steering pump you can reinforce with silicone for caulk guns for $8 at walmart (100% silicone bath caulk). from your description I could tell the vacuum thing is not the problem, you had a shredded mount due to low quality. the vacuum thing is only an additional shock absorber which doesn't do much

 

I of course hooked up the vacuum line when installing it. I did not test whether it was working or not, which I will do now that the replacement engine mounts are in. There's obviously that solenoid above the engine mount that the vacuum line goes through, I'll have to see if that's working or not and, if not, figure out where to get a replacement.

The front mount/limiter was replaced at the same time as all of the engine mounts. Nothing is wrong with it.

 

The mount busting might be the symptom not the cause. When trannies wear, especially when going into first from reverse before being completely stopped it will wear the tranny so that there is excessive kick. If you do have to get a tranny we only hear good things from Synchrotech.

 

I replaced both the rear-lower and driver's side engine mounts last night with warranty replacements and all is now well. Let's hope this "quality" Anchor product holds up this time. Also spent some time doing a little clean up with all the hoses and wires in the area, many of which used to have support clips which must have broken in the 20 years this car has been scooting around.

Attached is a picture of what happened to it. It basically just broke in half - metal weld tabs broke, not rubber. I must have been sold some old stock by Rock Auto or something. I don't know, but Anchor/Rock Auto are warrantying both parts and both parts are on their way back to Rock Auto to be subsequently thrown into their garbage can, no doubt.

@holmesnmanny I have never really gone into any gear with an auto while the car is moving. I wait until it stops, then go. Obviously I didn't own this car for its entire life, but the transmission is fine. I did a transmission flush when I got the car and again when this noise started happening and there wasn't a metal flake to be found. Shifts like butter. Old car so other things make noise from time to time. Like I need to figure out how to stop the hood support rod from rattling. Seems to be missing a grommet where it sets in the radiator support area. Annoying but only happens from time to time.

Thanks for the help y'all.

 

The service manual always has a specific way to install mounts, sometimes you have to loosen up other mounts before tightening the new mount down. Usually you can get away with just throwing a mount in but sometimes if you don't torque things the right way it will prematurely wear the mount.