I put a new distributor on my sedan and of course it won't start. I verified tdc, am getting good spark, and good fuel. Car shoots literal fireballs some times and makes like it's trying to start, but won't.
​​​​​​​my thought was that the distributor was 180 off, as the case usually is. Buttttt it won't go in the other way. Sounds stupid, but one notch won't fall into the cam. I've tried jamming it in, doesn't work. Anyone encounter this before?

 

I'm getting pretty frustrated at this point. I pulled the distributor, undid the snap ring, and just turned the notched piece around, so I could rotate the distributor and install it, Car still won't start.
It's getting spark, it's getting fuel, car ran before I pulled the distributor, so it's not compression, new icm, new ignitor, the distributor only goes on two ways, wtf is happening?
Plug wires are in the right order as well, and even if they weren't, I've switched them around in frustration, to no effect. Car still putts and pops some times, like it's going to start, and then just doesn't.
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Check the rotor.

 

That's the kicker, the car was running on 3 cylinders at low throttle positions. Got a new diz, and then saw the rotor was cracked and burnt. Threw it on anyway, and it ran, but just the same as it did. Bought a new rotor, and pulled the diz to put it on, NOW the car won't start. I've pulled it off and made sure the screw was tight and all that, neglected to say it.

 

Thought this might be a helpful note. The car has an open header, that exits level with the crossmember, and when I'm using my truck to jump start the car, I can see giant plumes of flame coming out of the header, reflected in the chrome of my bumper. So I'm doubting it's a spark problem, more inclined to blame timing, I'll verify mechanical timing soon, but suggestions in the mean time are welcome.

 

Instead of flipping the snap ring, remove the spark plug wires off the cap and move them all over one position clockwise. It sounds like you're not 180 off, but 90 off. the spark seems to be firing when your exhaust valves are way open. instead of a few degress after intakes close.

 

From front of car, cylinder order is 4321.
On distributor, starting top left, and moving clockwise, wires are 3421. Not correct?

 

3 1 2 4
TOP OF
VALVE COVER
( 3 )... ( 4 )...Front
.....( O )........Of
( 1 )... ( 2 )...Car

 

Yeah I definitely have it right. After reading about some Chevy guys having similar issues, someone had mentioned the engine "kicking back" against the starter if the timing is too advanced. I have definitely experienced this as well. I've tried song the distributor in the middle of its adjustment range, to no avail. But shouldn't the car still at least start in the whole adjustment range?

 

You've got something way way off if it won't start. I recommend getting the manual out. Verifying the CAM timing first. then taking the cap off of the rotor and verifying that the rotor is pointing near cylinder 1 at TDC. If you do that you can't go wrong.

 

This was literally the first thing I did.
​​​​​​​made sure rotor was pointing to 1 at TDC. Car wouldn't start. I figured it must have been at the top of the exhaust stroke, therefore I'm 180 off. Flipped the distributor, still wouldn't start. I mean I'll do it again but at this point I'm just repeating things I've already done.

 

​​​​​​​Did you ever get it figured out?

 

Not yet, ordered a new cap and rotor, they're here but I don't have days off til Monday, and I work twelve hours. I'm gonna replace those and then start from the beginning again, checking mechanical timing first and then setting the engine to TDC on 1.
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​​​​​​​Installed the new cap and rotor, it started right up. Buuutttt it's still running on three cylinders.. Quick compression check turned up 150 psi. Not ideal. But not dead either. Wtf. Checked for spark on that cylinder, it's strong. It's dpfi so it's not just a dead injector. Wtf guys.

 

check the map sensor is connected