hey guys,

After an extensive research on my own, I've decided to go with Viper ESP alarm, mainly since it has a pretty good expandable options upgrade ....

still have these questions left....

between the ESP300 and ESP800, there are a difference of 4 extra "receiver channels"...what are these channels for ?

Are power door locks necessary feature on the Viper 800 since I have a 98 GSR with power door locks already in it.....?
same question for dome light....since stock alarms are capable of doing these features...

third,
what is a zone identification ?the 800 has 8 and the 300 has 4 zones...what are these for ?

also what are "icon remotes " ?

the reason I compare the 300 versus the 800 is that Earmark has the 300 for 200 bucks installed, I've seen theri work, stock wiring, and I can request the placement of the brain and lifetime warranty....
so I want to know are those featured mention above really are significant ?

and also, viper system doesn;t comes with "Dual proximity sensor" like the clifford, how easy are these to add on ??? what about "Tilt Sensor ", and glass sensor ?

Also, what are the difference between starter kill and ignition kill ?, which ones protects better ?...

and lastly I've seen these alarms on Groupbuy for a very good deal, how much should I expect to pay for installation ? and should I go to franchise(earmark, circuit city etc ) or independent (which I've heard are better..)
and I am very mechanically and electronically inclined, would this be a new challenge for me to DIY....?

thanks for the input guys, very appreciate it...

 

Flamenco,

ok, I have the ESP800. I got it because of it's expandability. I can't answer all your questions, but I can start.

The receiver channels are for how many devices you can control seperatly. ex Windows, sunroof, door lock, hatch pop, horn, lights, neon, strobes, etc.. so that mean you have one channel control one device. Like on my car I can control the door locks, sun roof, windows, and headlights. So that means I have room for 4 more devices without buying addon channels.

The Viper 800 doesn't come with power door lock, it has the control to make them remote keyless entry. It will also turn on the dome light as a courtesy light, so there is light when you get in your car. This is a built in feature with the ESP 800.

Zone identification mean that you can have 8 seperate zones in the car. Like zone one are the doors, zone 2 the hatch, zone 3 the hood, zone 4 the shock sensor (minor), zone 5 shock sensor (major), zone 6 the proximity sensor (inside), zone 6 the proximity sensor (outside), zone 7 the glass sensor, etc... So when a sensor is tripped , the next time you get in your car the LED will blink the number of which zone was tripped. Then you know what was set off.
What I mean by minor or major. Is it is a dual stage shock sensor. If the car is hit softly then it is a minor and you understand! Same for the proximity. If somebody is close then it is outside. If somebody is REALLY close then it is inside.

Icon remote I am not exactly sure, I am thinking remotes that have pictures on them, insted of the I, II, III, and IV. I don't know. My remote has the roman numerals.

All other sensors are very easy to add on. they just plug into the brain.

I don't know the difference between starter kill and ignition kill, my understanding is they are the same thing with different names.

I spent about $600 for mine installed. That is everything including the extra cost for the window modules (Auto up and down on both passenger and driver. It also rolls the windows up when I arm the alarm. I can also put them up/down with the remote) The sun roof module (same as windows), Plus the guy to wire the headlights in. Couple of other minor things. But yeah I went to a 6th Ave Electrons. Like a Circuit City.

If you feel confortable wireing in to your ignition and stuff like that, then do it. There are A LOT of wires. The other thing is, Viper will warranty the work and will cover up to like $2500 deductable (something like that) if the car is broken into. But only if it is done by a authorized Viper installer. You have to have proof of installation (receipts and stuff)

I hope that helps you out.

I have been very happy with my alarm and I know that I can add stuff later when I have more $$$ to get more stuff. Good luck.

-Matt
99 Civic EX
w/ a new Apexi WS exhaust (I love it)

 

Your GSR has both a starter and an ignition circuit. Both circuits have to be energized in order to start the car. Most Cillford alarms give you security on both circuits. Most DEI alarms only come with one relay that you can use to protect either the starter or the ignition. However you can add another relay to protect the other circuit - something I would do IMO. It's just another level of security a thief would have to bypass in order to the start the car.

 

Since we're on this topic...does anyone know how to adjust the sensitivity on a viper 500ESP? Mine doesn't seem sensitive enough...

 

sesitivity of what? Proximity or shock?

 

not sure whats the difference between Proximity or shock...but for instance..if i kick my rims or knock on the windows, i'll have to knock on it really hard to set the alarm off. I want to adjust it so if someone tap on my car, it'll set it off.

 

Under your dash you should see a small device. It is about the size of a wallnut. Maybe a little bigger. Anyway, it should be clear plastic. Once you find it you will see a little setscrew on the side of it. You have to adjust that... I don't know which way u have to turn it. So adjust it, get out, arm the alarm, wait about ten seconds, and then test it. Just keep doing that till you like it. Remember there are 2 levels of sensitivity. The warn, which is just the 7 chirps, then there is the full alarm.

Good luch


-Matt W
White 99 EX

 

hey..thanks alot! i'll go work on it rite now..

 

I have the 800esp and have installed everyone af the other models, also alot of the clifford models. The difference between ignition and starter kill is that starter kill only disables the starter circuit only. The ignition kill interrupts everything on the ignition circuit (if you had an ignition kill only and someone broke into your car and tried to start it the motor would turn over but would not crank) this is because the fuel pump ECU and distributor are on the ignition circuit. Starter kill only is in theory the safest way to do it and also the only way that DEI recommends on doing it. It is an extra measure to do both but if you are only doing one do the starter kill. DEI has a failsafe starter kill so that no matter what happens to the alarm (IE the alarm goes bad) the car will still start can't guarante that with ignition kill.

Icon remotes means that it has pics on the buttons (lock,unlock,panic, and aux pic) not really a big deal unless u prefer it

All the extra features are worth it if you plan to expand (window roll up modules, sunroof close, trunk pop, headlight activation(cool feature), or any other electronically controlled device in your car)

Dual proximity sensor is mostly used in convertables or if you leave your windows down alot. It sets up a bubble around you car and detects motion

 

"DEI has a failsafe starter kill so that no matter what happens to the alarm (IE the alarm goes bad) the car will still start can't guarante that with ignition kill. " hybridtuner....the last part of your statement is not exactly correct.

This is the low security way of doing starter-kill otherwise known as having a normally-closed relay for interrupting the starter circuit. You could have the same type of relay on the ignition circuit and you would still be able to start the vehicle if something happens to the brain. The current that passes through a normally-closed relay is not interrupted until the relay is energized (i.e. when you arm the system, a signal is sent to the relay to open its circuit thus interrupting the starter and/or the ignition). The downside to having normally-closed relays is that if the thief finds the alarm brain, he can disable the alarm and then proceed to start the vehicle. Once the brain is disconnected, the relay(s) closes its circuit since there is no signal coming from the brain. Once the circuit is closed, current can flow through the relay thus enabling the starter and/or ignition.

Having a normally-open relay for your starter and ignition-kill gives you the added peace of mind that even if the thief finds the brain, he or she won't be able to start the car because the relay's circuit stays open unless the brain is sending a signal. The downside is that if something happens to the brain, you may not be able to start the car. However, alarm units with internal relays (Clifford, Auto Page, Crimestopper and others) are built well enough that if the brain becomes partially damaged, you'll still be able to start the car (I had a Clifford 900-IQ that was damaged by water but I was able to still start the car). Also if you use high-quality Bosch relays instead of the cheap Taiwan-made ones that come standard with every DEI alarm, you'll have a more reliable system.

Last note....if the relay fails in general, you won't be able to start the vehicle no matter what type of circuit is being used (normally-closed or open).

 

Dipsomaniac.....if you crank up the sensitivity so that a tap sets it off, you'll get false alarms constantly (i.e. when trucks pass by, when high winds blow, during heavy rain storms, airplanes passing over, parking in a parking garage, when cars w/boomin' systems roll by, and the list goes on). Plus you'll get heat and fines from the local boys in blue 'cause your alarm keep going off.