Last week my car just shut off while I was driving, no sputtering, it just cut off. It only happens after the motor has warmed up to normal temperature and I've noticed that the idle will drop from 800 to 500 rpm before it happens but it doesn't cut off when I'm stopped. Normally it takes about 5 minutes before it'll start back up but then sometimes it's fine for the rest of my trip and others it'll happen a couple more times before I make it where I'm going. The only code I'm getting even when it happens is p1337 for the crank position sensor, I checked the wiring and found nothing wrong so I replaced it but that was before this started happening and I'm still getting the code. I've replaced the whole distributor, wires, plugs, I checked to see if any of the soldering on the main relay had cracked and it all looked good, I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. Off the top of my head I can only think of the ignition switch, maybe a wire got pinched somewhere when I installed the head, or maybe the coolant temp sensor but that's a long shot. I just can't seem to get this car straight, any help is greatly appreciated

 

The crank fluctuation sensor is located on the crank snout. If it's giving an error periodically, I would think it's getting out of sync with the sensor in the distributor.

Have you checked your timing belt tension?

 

The tension on the timing belt is fine, I even tried a brand new OEM Honda sensor that my buddy had laying around at his shop and there was still no difference, got the same code doing the same ****, but I just did the bypass trick and so for no CEL but I just gotta drive it around and make sure it doesn't shut off on me

 

So it happened again, I had changed the ignition switch and lock cylinder because I could wiggle the key a little and get it to start but that still wasn't the problem, every now and then when it happens it'll throw a code p0108 for the map sensor and every time it happens, I get a strong smell of gas, I checked the main relay and none of the soldering had cracked, and when it happened yesterday, I went to try to start it and I heard a strange noise from the belt side of the motor, any ideas? This $700 swap has turned into like $1200

 

You would have to check with a microscope, then add in vibration. Only way to be sure is melt each solder with an iron

 

I need manufacturer vehicle emission codes - P1337 P1336

 

Ok so I checked data from a freeze frame when I got a code for ECT sensor, IAT sensor, ELD, and MAP sensor and the numbers are insane, I've pulled apart the wiring harness looking for and breaks or shorts all the way to the firewall and couldn't find anything but here's the the data I got

 

It seems like I'm either losing spark or getting too much fuel but I'm thinking that it's a spark problem because when I crank the motor after it cuts off it's still getting fuel

 

When several things mess up at once look at what they have in common. The big thing would be ground wires. Also it could be a defective ECU. I suspect that all those sensors go to the same chip inside the ECU.

 

It's very possible that they do go to the same chip, I know they all go to the same plug and are very close to each other where they go into the main harness which led me to believe it was a short, would there be any physical evidence that the ECU is bad or is running all the tests with a multimeter the only way to check?

 

Tomorrow I'm gonna try replacing the alternator, main relay, and ignition coil because I have some that I know are working fine, but if that doesn't work it's gotta be the ECU because like I said I checked the harness for breaks and openings and I checked all the grounds under the hood, replaced the corroded ones and cleaned the contact points on the others

 

Update: when I tap on the dist cap with the handle of a screwdriver after it dies the car starts up without having to wait, could that point to the ICM or the coil?

 

Well I think I just got a bad distributor from NAPA so I got a new one since it was under warranty and haven't had the problem yet. I guess if it happens I'll get OEM Honda now that I know NAPA distributors are shitty remans, but at least I have a completely brand new ignition system outta this! Lol