So I've had my current R for about a year, and the entire time I've had it, I've had an issue with the door ajar light flickering on and off on the instrument panel, and when I unlock my car from the remote it triggers that the passenger door was tripped. Sometimes it'll just say it tripped, other times it'll set off the alarm. For the longest time I just locked the doors and didn't arm the alarm, but I'm getting tired of using the key so I'm back to using the remote. I've replaced both courtesy lamp door switches with new ones, I've completely removed the dome light, and I've also removed the interior light 7.5amp fuse from the engine bay fuse box.

From looking at page 23-181 of the factory electrical wiring diagram it seems like the power goes from the battery, to that fuse box, obviously through the main 100a fuse, then to the 7.5a, from there through the underdash fuse box, but I see no fuse associated in the diagram, then from there to the cargo area light and the ceiling light. The power then goes from the ceiling light to the ICU and to the passenger door switch.

The car has a Viper 2 way alarm on it, however this problem was occurring with both previous owners, and prior to the alarm being installed. I have not ruled out the alarm completely, but I find it hard to believe the alarm is causing an issue that was present years before the alarm was installed.

What am I missing in this system that is a part of this? I would think when I've pulled the fuse from the engine bay fuse box, that should cut power to the system. I must be looking at this schematic wrong, or I'm missing something in looking at this. I'd really like to be able to rely on this alarm to accurately tell me when its been tripped or going off.

 

Check for continuity on the hot side of the passenger side door switch to the battery (LT GRN/RD wire). This should be an open line when the door is shut and then a closed line to ground when the door is open. If the fuse is pulled you should not have any method to have continuity at this point with the door shut . If you do have continuity then someone has messed with the wiring, or the actual switch is bad (unlikely since you have replaced it).

Does the interior dome light also flicker or just the dash light?


Has the car had any paint work which may be impacting grounds?

 

No paint work, but it needs it.

Light does flicker. I had it turned off, and now I've completely removed the light.

 

Check continuity at both of these spots to 12v DC, but unplug the ICU first as continuity can travel through circuitry in weird ways.

If you really have the fuse pulled, it would seem that one of these is somehow shorting to 12V+, or that the ICU diodes are not functioning and allowing voltage through. We don't have a schematic for the guts of the ICU but it would be my best guess other than plain old wiring issues or modifications from a previous owner.

 

Get the electrical troubleshooting manual as there are some wires missing.



If the dome light or door open indicator on the cluster is flickering, it is getting ground somewhere.