Engine problems, bad TPS the culprit?
Did a check on my TPS and got the following results:
Input was 5V so that's good
output needed to be 0,5V with closed throttle position, didn't got anything, and with WOT it was around 3,96 and that needs to be 4,5V
Could this be the problem I'm having with my rpm's? Already checked and cleaned everything and nothing changed.
Car idles.. give it some gas, idle goes up, let off the gas and normally idle goes down but mine is hanging (when going down) for a sec or 2 and then drops down to normal idle.. Can clearly hear it also.. and something my idle is a bit on the low side, cold is around 1500 and warm is 900ish and sometimes it drops to 750ish. Doesn't stall when stopping or anything like that..
Engine is a D15Z6 vtec-e, almost the same as a D16Y8, complete stock with header and intake being aftermarket
Input was 5V so that's good
output needed to be 0,5V with closed throttle position, didn't got anything, and with WOT it was around 3,96 and that needs to be 4,5V
Could this be the problem I'm having with my rpm's? Already checked and cleaned everything and nothing changed.
Car idles.. give it some gas, idle goes up, let off the gas and normally idle goes down but mine is hanging (when going down) for a sec or 2 and then drops down to normal idle.. Can clearly hear it also.. and something my idle is a bit on the low side, cold is around 1500 and warm is 900ish and sometimes it drops to 750ish. Doesn't stall when stopping or anything like that..
Engine is a D15Z6 vtec-e, almost the same as a D16Y8, complete stock with header and intake being aftermarket
Well it's a different problem because the TPS isn't in the OEM specs Honda gives... so could be linked with the idles issues.
Also sometimes it likes that the engine is hessitating and then goes normally, pretty random and not set on a x amount rpm's
Also sometimes it likes that the engine is hessitating and then goes normally, pretty random and not set on a x amount rpm's
Idle is affected by vac leaks and IAC valve. Too much or not enough air getting in. Your uncalibrated TPS signal will have zero effect unless it is off due to your throttle body plate being partially open or getting stuck. Figure out if your TB is sticking, and go from there. Check for any other leaks, check IAC valve, etc..
Already checked IACV and switched with 3 others, no difference...
Checked for leaks, couldn't find any..
TPS is never been off the throttle body. Engine is stock!
I got a EGR valve on my intake, can that affect my idle?
Checked for leaks, couldn't find any..
TPS is never been off the throttle body. Engine is stock!
I got a EGR valve on my intake, can that affect my idle?
The more important thing about the TPS is that the voltage increases smoothly as you open the throttle. If there are "dead spots" where the output volts drops to zero, it is bad. So you should never see zero volts. Closed should be 0.4. This is what you adjust for. Wide open somewhere around 4. The actual wide open voltage is not that important.
There is no "D15Z6". If you have a completely stock VX, it's a D15Z1 engine. And the VTEC-E is completely different from regular VTEC. To make a VX run properly you need a complete set of VX parts on it. Do not substitute anything from other models.
There is no "D15Z6". If you have a completely stock VX, it's a D15Z1 engine. And the VTEC-E is completely different from regular VTEC. To make a VX run properly you need a complete set of VX parts on it. Do not substitute anything from other models.
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4tika4
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Apr 19, 2009 09:43 AM





