93 si Type-R Build - Parts suggestions
Hey guys. So I have been waiting to do this for years and am finally getting it done! I have had my 93 Si hatch since 2009. Bought it bone stock from original owner (an old lady) with only 129K miles
. Car was great to me through college but began giving me engine head problems around 178K as the D series are known for so I've been told. Long story short, its been sitting in my garage for a while and I am finally ready to do a type R swap!
Motor is coming in from HMO and Inline Pro is doing the swap for me in the next 3-4 weeks. I've heard nothing but great things from these guys. Been doing research and waiting for this for years and I want it done right! So I've learned the hard way over the years and owning 7 honda's that you get what you paid for in auto parts. Inline Pro is setting me up with a s300 ecu, timing belt job, a tune, and of course the swap. I plan on building this car N/A,as a weekend/occasional daily, (I metro to work) and maybe a track day or two throughout the year. Plan on doing this in 3 phases: Phase I: Engine + brakes + engine bay tuck and paint; Phase II: Wheels + Suspension; Phase III: Aerodynamics and Interior (i.e. seats, harness, etc.)
Phase I (doing now) = Swap:
- engine swap is a complete package to include LSD trans and axles among other things from HMO (Honda Motors Online)
QUESTION:
I plan on doing the following while the engine is out and being tuned/set up. As I mentioned, I want quality parts. I am not a fan of wasting money but am willing to put up the $$ for the right parts. What I have in mind (please give suggestions/recommendations):
- Intake manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series
- TB: Skunk2 70mm Pro Series
- Header: Spoon ?? (I love the look of these and the gains are great too)
- Brakes all around (currently rusted from sitting): Want good brakes. Considering upgrading the whole thing to either a spoon set up or willwood. But on the border as that might be a bit pricey and OEM is like $250.
Currently my Si has an injen CAI and an Apexi exhaust so I figured I want to make the whole exhaust system complete.
I've been reading up EVERYWHERE on header choices including the famous header test that's on here as well but can't seem to find anything on the Skunk2 header for the B-series. Are they good? I am leaning towards the Spoon header and the numbers are nice too but they are over 1K! I plan purchasing them but want to be sure as well as the other parts I have listed above. What I especially like about the Spoon is how clean they look. One of my main goals is to keep this build REALLY clean as well as functional. I'm hoping to have a nice build with quality parts and quality work for a quality yet show looking car.
Any suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated.
. Car was great to me through college but began giving me engine head problems around 178K as the D series are known for so I've been told. Long story short, its been sitting in my garage for a while and I am finally ready to do a type R swap!Motor is coming in from HMO and Inline Pro is doing the swap for me in the next 3-4 weeks. I've heard nothing but great things from these guys. Been doing research and waiting for this for years and I want it done right! So I've learned the hard way over the years and owning 7 honda's that you get what you paid for in auto parts. Inline Pro is setting me up with a s300 ecu, timing belt job, a tune, and of course the swap. I plan on building this car N/A,as a weekend/occasional daily, (I metro to work) and maybe a track day or two throughout the year. Plan on doing this in 3 phases: Phase I: Engine + brakes + engine bay tuck and paint; Phase II: Wheels + Suspension; Phase III: Aerodynamics and Interior (i.e. seats, harness, etc.)
Phase I (doing now) = Swap:
- engine swap is a complete package to include LSD trans and axles among other things from HMO (Honda Motors Online)
QUESTION:
I plan on doing the following while the engine is out and being tuned/set up. As I mentioned, I want quality parts. I am not a fan of wasting money but am willing to put up the $$ for the right parts. What I have in mind (please give suggestions/recommendations):
- Intake manifold: Skunk2 Pro Series
- TB: Skunk2 70mm Pro Series
- Header: Spoon ?? (I love the look of these and the gains are great too)
- Brakes all around (currently rusted from sitting): Want good brakes. Considering upgrading the whole thing to either a spoon set up or willwood. But on the border as that might be a bit pricey and OEM is like $250.
Currently my Si has an injen CAI and an Apexi exhaust so I figured I want to make the whole exhaust system complete.
I've been reading up EVERYWHERE on header choices including the famous header test that's on here as well but can't seem to find anything on the Skunk2 header for the B-series. Are they good? I am leaning towards the Spoon header and the numbers are nice too but they are over 1K! I plan purchasing them but want to be sure as well as the other parts I have listed above. What I especially like about the Spoon is how clean they look. One of my main goals is to keep this build REALLY clean as well as functional. I'm hoping to have a nice build with quality parts and quality work for a quality yet show looking car.
Any suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated.
Many people have had good results including myself with the Toda header v2. I'd opt for that over the spoon. Good luck with your project
I keep seeing the Toda recommended along with Hytech and SMSP, but I have a hard time finding authentic ones for sale. Even their websites don't have them for sale. There are tones of replicas on ebay but no real ones I can see. Any suggestions?
You'll only get genuine ones used from those seeking. Otherwise you can get TODA RACING Replica Headers without resorting to eBay knock-off junk.
I think you can still get a new HyTech header for a B-series... as for the SMSP, it's not likely a new one of those is gonna happen.
Great plan and awesome build! My suggestions on the motor are stick with the itr manifold and run a skunk2 alpha 70mm TB and port match it to the oem manifold.
The spoon header and brakes are nice (I have had the header and still run twinblock calipers) but not necessary. On a stock motor your gains arnt going to be crazy going from say a plm toda rep to a 1k "nice" header.
If you have an si you should have rear disc, you could do stainless lines, brembo blanks, hawk hp+ pads for a good budget setup. If you want a bit more power ITR or Acura legend calipers for up front
The spoon header and brakes are nice (I have had the header and still run twinblock calipers) but not necessary. On a stock motor your gains arnt going to be crazy going from say a plm toda rep to a 1k "nice" header.
If you have an si you should have rear disc, you could do stainless lines, brembo blanks, hawk hp+ pads for a good budget setup. If you want a bit more power ITR or Acura legend calipers for up front
Trending Topics
I'm going to be building a 2.1L B20V early 2018, I'll be using the Blox Max-Flo headers. It's a 4-2-1 design with stepped primaries, should yield great results.
I'm also planning on chopping off the 2.5" collector and running a conical 2.5"->3" conversion for the rest of the exhaust.
I'm also planning on chopping off the 2.5" collector and running a conical 2.5"->3" conversion for the rest of the exhaust.
As of this post, the Toda header is available brand new from here for $1173 shipped. It will take months to actually show up though.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/toda-racing...a-dc2-db8.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/toda-racing...a-dc2-db8.html
As of this post, the Toda header is available brand new from here for $1173 shipped. It will take months to actually show up though.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/toda-racing...a-dc2-db8.html
https://www.rhdjapan.com/toda-racing...a-dc2-db8.html
RHD Japan has actually been really good about adjusting prices for me, I've had them do it twice so far. The first time they knocked almost $50 off the shipping of the Feel's oil pan because I showed them the Spoon pan shipped for $30 instead of $80.
I wonder if they'll match the Toda shipping cost for the Feel's header... they currently have the Toda shipping for $113, but the Feel's is $155.
I have to imagine those cost the same to ship. I'll shoot 'em an email.
I wonder if they'll match the Toda shipping cost for the Feel's header... they currently have the Toda shipping for $113, but the Feel's is $155.
I have to imagine those cost the same to ship. I'll shoot 'em an email.
Not sure about shipped. I ended up ordering the toda from RHDJapan and it was more like $1383 shipped. Came in about 3 weeks as it was a made to order part. I like that cause it makes me feel special
Thanks everyone for the replies. Didn't realize how many I had until I was looking through my old threads.
On that note, its time to upgrade my suspension on the EG. The swap is under way and the shop is recommending some Tien coilovers.
I know there are plenty of previous threads on suspension and wheels but I'm looking for a good combination of coilovers with front and rear sway bars/stabilizer bars, control arms, and most likely a little camber due to the below wheel size.
Trying to run 16x8 or 9 if possible with a staggered setup. Whats the lowest offset I can run on 16's? Would really like a "deep dish" set up but don't want to run crazy camber. trying to drop the car as much as safely possible.
ANY help on wheel size/offset and suspension combination is greatly appreciated. Pictures would be great as well.
Thanks.
On that note, its time to upgrade my suspension on the EG. The swap is under way and the shop is recommending some Tien coilovers.
I know there are plenty of previous threads on suspension and wheels but I'm looking for a good combination of coilovers with front and rear sway bars/stabilizer bars, control arms, and most likely a little camber due to the below wheel size.
Trying to run 16x8 or 9 if possible with a staggered setup. Whats the lowest offset I can run on 16's? Would really like a "deep dish" set up but don't want to run crazy camber. trying to drop the car as much as safely possible.
ANY help on wheel size/offset and suspension combination is greatly appreciated. Pictures would be great as well.
Thanks.
It'd work on the tyre itself, and not worry so much about the super-hella flush wide wheels. they're not going to help you in a street situation, nor will they come in the offset you really want to deal with for your front calipers and fenders for an . Stick to the 16x7, 16x7.5 or at the most 16x8.
Don't sit the car too low, and really you'll be at a 205 or 215mm wide tyre, I recommend a 45 or 50mm side wall for the best street compounds.
Don't sit the car too low, and really you'll be at a 205 or 215mm wide tyre, I recommend a 45 or 50mm side wall for the best street compounds.
For coilovers I like -
Progress
PIC
Fortune 500
AMR
Ohlins
That's in order of cost.
But really, that's a better question for the suspension forum, you should start a new thread.
Progress
PIC
Fortune 500
AMR
Ohlins
That's in order of cost.
But really, that's a better question for the suspension forum, you should start a new thread.
It'd work on the tyre itself, and not worry so much about the super-hella flush wide wheels. they're not going to help you in a street situation, nor will they come in the offset you really want to deal with for your front calipers and fenders for an . Stick to the 16x7, 16x7.5 or at the most 16x8.
Don't sit the car too low, and really you'll be at a 205 or 215mm wide tyre, I recommend a 45 or 50mm side wall for the best street compounds.
Don't sit the car too low, and really you'll be at a 205 or 215mm wide tyre, I recommend a 45 or 50mm side wall for the best street compounds.
That depends upon how low you try to keep the car, which in most cade, many younger people go too low. I would go no further than a +35 offset on a 16x7 or 16x7.5. But I'm conservative and look at functionality, not Hella flush / stance. So, what you may consider "nice", I see as obnoxious.
Not necessarily. Just trying to get a nice look I like while staying functional. Functionality and a safe set up is obviously mire important. I'm really just beginning to learn about offsets and wheel set ups along with suspension hence the reason I'm asking questions and throwing out numbers that kind of make sense to me based on the little research I've done.









