I've purchased ID 1000's to replace my RC 750's. I need to get re-tuned anyway, because I changed my turbo setup recently, but I'm wondering if I can install the injectors before going for tuning, or if I'm going to want to install the injectors at the tuner's shop?

I see that SManager has the ID1000's as a injector choice, does that mean I can install the injectors at home, update the S300 in SManager, and the car will continue to be drivable? This would be ideal, so I could them installed prior to arriving at the tuner's shop.

Appreciate any answers, thanks!!

-patrick

 

I would wait to install them until you're at the tuner's. There is zero consistency in expectations when swapping to different injectors and only changing base parameters within the tune. It may work decently or it may go terribly wrong, or anywhere in between. better safe than sorry

 

It should work, but would recomend changing them at his shop

 

Great info, thanks guys! I'll definitely wait to install them at his shop instead.

 

Doing it at the tuner definitely the safe route, but for anyone else having the need to swap injectors before getting tuned, it should be fairly simple to update the calibration.

The only parameters affected are injector scaling and dead times. So for example, in the current injector field you would change the size from 750cc to 1000cc.

Next update the dead times to either what was provided in the specs with your new injectors, or use the preloaded values for ID 1000's in Smanager.

The car should run and drive fine until you get it tuned, and only need some minor adjustments. I would not drive in boost before getting tuned.

 

I've included a quick picture of the steps that 2x0 is talking about, in case you were going to do it yourself before you got to your tuner. I'd highly suggest that you have your tuner deal with it, but in case you already threw the injectors are and aren't inclined to take them off, this would be the steps you'd take.
*Note: the other values are arbitrary and thrown on from a random map I picked so I could get this screenshot. Do not use those values.

 

With work busy, I wasn't getting a good opportunity to take time off to tune yet. So two Saturday's ago I figured I'd install the ID 1000's and adjust in Smanager, and if it didn't work, I could roll back.

The good news is, changing from RC 750 to ID 1000 in Smanager worked like a charm. It started right up, even seemed to idle smoother and drove just fine for the most part (I stayed less than 50% throttle). However, this past Saturday I went for a 20 minute joy ride, towards the end, throttle response seemed jumpy when cruising 25-30mph down residential streets. I thought odd, I guess I should hurry up and get it tuned properly and parked it for the day. Sunday I went to go for another joy ride, but immediately upon starting the car the battery light on the dash was on, and the interior light was super bright (this has never happened before). I connected the Hondata app on my iPhone to the S300 to check voltage, and at idle it was over 18.xx volts. I drove it for a few minutes, it drove fine, but voltage stayed really high. If i turned the air vents up to high, voltage dropped back down to a safe level and the battery light on the dash would turn off. I parked it again, confused that for ~2 weeks it was just fine until now.

Today I go out to start the car to see if the voltage is still high, the battery is as dead as can be. I jumped it off my other Integra and voltage was still 16-17 volts. While it was idling I went to disconnect the jumper cables and noticed the Odyssey battery looks to be emitting a light white smoke, but no smell I could detect. I immediately disconnected the jumper cables and shut off the car. Even stranger, I could of sworn I received a slight shock from the key when I shut the car off.

I'm not sure if this is the best forum for my question, but does anyone have an ideas for what could be going on with my car? It's never had wiring issues before, wondering if the injectors are the root cause?

Much appreciate any ideas.

Patrick

Edit - A little googling just now hinted it is likely the voltage regulator in the alternator. I put one of those eBay, high output 130A, alternators in 2 years ago...