whats up guys, ejeffone here

ive done countless searches and have asked multiple people but frankly there arent too many experienced people in my area, Ive ran out of sources to look for because they shed some light but nothing directly in that direction.
I have a jdm b18b in my 98 honda civic ex, i am 99% done with everything i have gone from the car having all sorts of CEL's going off to my VSS just popping up no biggie. my issue is and one topic that Ive never got any real clarification on was how
in heck am i to hook up the evap on it or is there anything i should de pin from my ex vtec harness. ive read online about depining the A15 pin for the Evaporative Emission Purge Control Solenoid Valve. ive physically looked at the breather box on the firewall that hooks up to the fuel pipe and it looks like if i put a breather box in the back of the block it might work as it has the connection the canister has. Another issue i noticed after i adjusted the dizzy into spec (in between the three lines on the crank pulley. The car then idle surges between 1 and 2k rpms and sometimes it holds around 1 to 1.5k rpm.

does me using my old y8 throttle body and idle air control valve on the b18b intake manifold cause any of this ?
btw engine burns oil and spits a bit into the exhaust port. i figured it was the valve stem seals because the car still has ***** like it has good compression

please save me the flame, im sure alot of you were where i once was if i made a mistake just correct me, im farely new to forums.

 

Are you running JDM or usdm ecu? Jdm means no evap, you would need an usdm obd2a LS/b20 intake manifold to hook up evap. The breather box on the back of the block is for pcv operation so don't hook it up to evap and make sure you change the pcv valve(can cause oil burning if clogged). Idle surge sounds like you have a vacuum leak, ( could be cause by your swapped throttle body as stated). Oil in the exhaust port.....I would do a real compression test just to make sure and if it all checks out good then do the valve seals. Usually if they are starting to go it will smoke on cold start and go away but also smoke on engine deceleration in gear.

 

well its a usdm ecu, jdm intake manifold. y8 tb. It certainly sounds like a small vacuum leak because sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesnt.
Next thing on the list is the compression test to see if its holding up. by no means does it sound like its weak at all just smokes a bit and smell like burning oil.

 

The EVAP system relation to the engine is simply a connection from the canister to the intake. When the engine is above idle the ECU opens the valve and lets the manifold vacuum suck accumulated vapors into the engine where they hopefully are burned off. At idle, the EVAP purge is shut down so it does not disturb fuel mixture.

Most of the canisters have two vacuum hoses. The larger one is connected to the intake directly so it has vacuum all the time. It goes to a relay valve on the top of the canister which is controlled by applying vacuum to the other hose, from the solenoid. I think the solenoid is normally open, that is it will pull vacuum and purge at all times that the coil is not energized.

The ECU tests the solenoid circuit and if continuity is lacking, throws the EVAP solenoid code. OBDII also looks at the fuel tank pressure. If the tank pressure stays at atmospheric, all the time, that means that there is a leak (such as the gas cap). If it doesn't decrease while purging that means the purge system isn't working.

 

that is definitely alot of insight i did test the solenoid by disconnecting it and immediately threw a cel for it. Pluged it back in and cured the code. The fuel gauge does drop a bit when i rip it but gradually goes back up. I dont know if this is common its my first official swap done by me. I just dont want the car to flux the idle between 1 and 1.5k rpm. Its very smooth overall and sounds healthy thats just my only issue i dont know if i should buy the gsr breather box and swap the intake manifold to a usdm one. Might fix my issue right? I did all the ecu ckf bypass and everything only cel i have is for a faulty vss but thats it which is why i find it a little weird

 

If you have a 2 wire IACV unplug it, the idle should drop to less than normal (spec is like 420 to 450 rpm, i.e. barely running). If it still idles too fast, you need to find out how the excessive air is getting into the engine. Any vacuum leak, disconnected hose, faulty IACV or FITV, throttle plate not closing all the way, improper fitment of TB to intake manifold, etc. Anything that lets air into the intake will cause idle speed to increase.

If the idle does drop with the IACV unplugged, this means that the ECU is commanding the high idle. That is usually related to the ECT sensor thinking that the engine is cold when it is not.