5th gen dash harness the same for AT/MT.(ecu plugs/kswap)
Currently have a turbo k EJ2, looking to step down to a 5G hatch and get under 1700 lbs. There's tons of cheap AUTO 5th gens around me, my question is, so long as a put the clutch pedal assembly and CMC in the auto can I plug my k-tuned conversion harness in the "auto" dash harness with no issues. Running k-pro.
Selling the EJ, "complete" to a buddy so I can't just take the harness from it, that's why i'm on here asking.
Selling the EJ, "complete" to a buddy so I can't just take the harness from it, that's why i'm on here asking.
My only experience converting AT to MT was my brothers obd0 Integra.
Aside from rewiring the harness from the auto shifter area to remove the shift lockout to be able to remove the key from the ignition we had no problems, everything plugged in ECU wise.
I believe there is an obd1 auto to manual conversion in the FAQ. You may want to start there.
Aside from rewiring the harness from the auto shifter area to remove the shift lockout to be able to remove the key from the ignition we had no problems, everything plugged in ECU wise.
I believe there is an obd1 auto to manual conversion in the FAQ. You may want to start there.
My only experience converting AT to MT was my brothers obd0 Integra.
Aside from rewiring the harness from the auto shifter area to remove the shift lockout to be able to remove the key from the ignition we had no problems, everything plugged in ECU wise.
I believe there is an obd1 auto to manual conversion in the FAQ. You may want to start there.
Aside from rewiring the harness from the auto shifter area to remove the shift lockout to be able to remove the key from the ignition we had no problems, everything plugged in ECU wise.
I believe there is an obd1 auto to manual conversion in the FAQ. You may want to start there.
The underdash harness is different. The engine harness will plug in just fine and the ECU plugs are the same but you will need to rewire the starting circuit and backup lights.
Ok, that's good to know, thanks. What do you mean by "starting circuit", I didn't see anything by that name in regards to the sticky auto to manual thread. Are you referring to the clutch safety switch ? i'm lost on that.
Starting circuit is literally that. The circuit which provides power to the starter, and yes that does involve the clutch start switch. See my ancient thread for details. Pics were taken with a potato as that's all I had at the time. ----> Auto to Manual Circuit
1 last question, the auto WILL have the mount hole for the CMC and the 4 studs for the clutch bracket assembly, correct?
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It's far easier and cheaper to buy a good clean automatic car and just swap it than it is to try to fix someone's project or beat up piece of junk. The holes are aleady in the firewall, and even though it doesn't matter in your case the engine harness is actually the same between automatic and manual Civics of that generation.
You can refer to my swap wiring diagram for the start circuit/backup lights/cruise ctrl. HERE
As for the CMC holes etc...the key interlock module sits in the way and will need to be moved/eliminated. No need to modify the ignition switch/remove the lock pin. But yes, the holes are there and it all lines up great. You'll just need to build a starter cut relay circuit from scratch/pull from yard if you're going to make it functionally the same as a factory manual. My diagram covers that circuit.
As for the CMC holes etc...the key interlock module sits in the way and will need to be moved/eliminated. No need to modify the ignition switch/remove the lock pin. But yes, the holes are there and it all lines up great. You'll just need to build a starter cut relay circuit from scratch/pull from yard if you're going to make it functionally the same as a factory manual. My diagram covers that circuit.
You can refer to my swap wiring diagram for the start circuit/backup lights/cruise ctrl. HERE
As for the CMC holes etc...the key interlock module sits in the way and will need to be moved/eliminated. No need to modify the ignition switch/remove the lock pin. But yes, the holes are there and it all lines up great. You'll just need to build a starter cut relay circuit from scratch/pull from yard if you're going to make it functionally the same as a factory manual. My diagram covers that circuit.
As for the CMC holes etc...the key interlock module sits in the way and will need to be moved/eliminated. No need to modify the ignition switch/remove the lock pin. But yes, the holes are there and it all lines up great. You'll just need to build a starter cut relay circuit from scratch/pull from yard if you're going to make it functionally the same as a factory manual. My diagram covers that circuit.
mainly I just need help locating which wires need to be connected/moved to get it to start.
the two largest wires you'll find in the AT shifter plug. #11 and #12 in my diagram. You'll notice that they are the ones that get "jumped" when the relay gets power...completes the starting circuit.
Instead of making a new thread, I'm bumping this one with my last issue. The gas pedal clip, I have no choice but to run the k-tuned throttle cable when using their big k-tuned intake manifold/TB. The issue is my pedal looks like this(see pic) and the cable looks like this. Before you say "just go buy the pedal", finding USED stuff like that is hard around here. So is there any one using a MT style throttle cable with an auto gas pedal, if so do you have a pic?. If need be i'll get the pedal, but it'll be from the dealer and that defeats the "theme" of my build. My cheap thought is jus bend that black clip so it lock the cable in, the throttle body has a full 360 mount point for the "wheel" so if there's a bit of slack I should be able to null it via the mount wheel.
You're going to need the pedal. You should be able to find something in the GTA used Honda/Acura FB group or the H-T marketplace. If you can't find one PM me, I think I still have a few of them.
Already answered in your text, but I'll post it here as well. The clutch pedal assembly hangs off the studs on the clutch master cylinder which go through those holes.
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