I am installing the Fit drivetrain including a complete wiring harness..... I will also have a high wattage stereo. What I want is a switch to manually control the alternator output and not add in the ELD at all. I have searched high and low and I did find this following how to link but it isn't for the Fit and it only says how to bypass the function but they leave the unit in place. https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/bo...ivicaccordfit/

I do have both Fit service manuals and an actual stock 08 Fit to use as reference as well. maybe someone can tell me how to figure it out myself or PP someone a small fee to spell it out for me.

I attached both ELD pages from service and electrical manuals

 

I would think the newer vehicles would be even more integrated than the old ones.

By that I mean that the ECU looks and depends on the ELD so unless you are going to change your engine management system, you won't be able to delete the ELD.

 

You want to know how to remove it? Its no different than any other Honda. Remove a couple of fuses and the ELD will come out. Try Googling Civic ELD removal. See if that helps.

 

OK, I googled for days..... literally. Ive been a member here for quite a while and would never pose such a question with out exhausting all other resources first. I realize there are a few write ups on the subject but none of them (that I have found) mention anything about removing it..... I also hope you don't think I mean just physically but electrically as well. I would like to have manual control over the voltage.

 

This write up goes up to 2006 accords and civics.

Maybe with it and your schematics you can translate it over to your vehicle:

How To: ELD Bypass for Honda Civic/Accord/Fit

 

Looking at the ETM schematic, it actually looks like it would be pretty easy to remove.

You would have to connect the high current battery line to alternator after ELD removal.

I am not sure the voltage input to the ECU. Would need to see how the ELD itself works to know if it uses high or low voltage to trigger max output in the ECU.

Once you know the voltage range for the ECU you can set up a constant voltage between P7 and E15 to maintain maximum output.

Poking around it appears the ELD input voltage range is likely 0-5v

 

http://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=auto_pres

That's what you need to read.

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!

 

Excellent find holmesnmanny!

Honda's Dual-Mode Charging System

This is the key component. Now it should be easy to remove the ELD and tell the ECU to tell the alternator it's under high electrical load.

Just need to read the current draw of the ELD to ECM line to see if .25 watt resistors will work or if higher current resistors will be required.

 

Why not leave the ELD in place and put a switch in line to pull the control signal to ground when you want 14.4v? That way the system still functions as normal until you flip the switch and override the system for full power.

 

Yeah, That paper really explained it and it is now rather simple, Im going to wire in 2 variable resistors and an A/B switch between the two, should be easy to have a low/ high switch now. It will be a while before I actually know this will work but Im pretty confident, Ill post on my build thread here when it actually gets done https://honda-tech.com/forums/insigh...muter-3290050/

 

Its not a bad idea and I'm now armed with the knowhow to do this to my wife car (08 fit) but when I picked up the donor I didn't get the underhood fuse box... I did find quite a bit on the subject from the car audio world as adding an amp at the battery bypasses this and drains the battery, since I will have a big sound system I figured manual control is worth while.

 

This is why we always recommend aftermarket stereos to get their power from the end of the fuse box and NOT the positive terminal on the battery because then the ECU is not seeing that extra power draw.