I have a 95 Honda Civic DX with a 1.5 liter D-series engine. I want to add a turbo just to make it more fun. I would like to maintain the car as my daily driver, just need a little more power. I would like to hit 175 WHP if possible. so I have a few questions
1: Would that amount of power be possible on my engine.
2: If I reduced the static compression from 9.2:1 down to 8:1 I would be able to safely run 15 psi with my stock aluminum head? This is my math below, please roast me if it's wrong
sqrt((boost+air pressure)/air pressure)*compression ratio= Final compression, so
sqrt((15+14.12)/14.12)*8=11.49
3: If that is correct, would I be able to provide that power with a Rev9Power manifold (https://goo.gl/Ge15hk), and a .48 A/R Rev9Power turbo (https://goo.gl/I3I18R)?

I'm not sure yet of which intercooler I would like to use, and I'm not set on these parts either, but if anybody has suggestions I'd really appreciate it. I am unfortunately on a budget. I'm trying to spend $1,500 in total (I know it's really low, I'm broke)

 

for the manifold its a little overkill, I would use a basic drag/log style cast manifold. (preferably one with the wastegate port centered) and a garrett Gt25r( GT2554R). if you use that turbo it has an internal waste gate. 15psi is irrelevant without specifying the turbo you want to use. to save money you can use chrome or Neptune for your engine management. and if you can get your hands on some dsm (blue tops) 440cc injectors, that should work. with a good tune youll be at 175whp, but those rods might be in for a surprise. from my little knowledge of d series that's your weak point.

also invest in some arp headstuds.

your current compression ratio will be just fine

im sure someone else will chime in with more info that might know a little more about your set-up

 

Hey, I appreciate your input, and I'll look into the turbo you suggested! I was just looking at that specific manifold because I was hoping to keep my A/C. Any suggestions on how to tell if a manifold will be A/C compatible?

 

check the link GO-AUTOWORKS Honda/Acura Cast Iron Turbo Manifolds B16 B18 D15 D16
from what ive seen most log manifolds are a/c compatible. if you haven't already look into a decent dual row radiator as the stock one wont work as well with the added heat.

 

you do relize rev9 is the same quality as ebay, if you are not willing to spend money on decent parts the best of luck to you .....not something I would do on a DD

definetly take a better look at goautoworks they have many ac compatible kits and its much higher quality then what your looking at

 

I will second that a T25 is great for that power level, I had one on a D16 in a del Sol and it worked nicely. However, you can probably source one for cheap and I wouldn't think having ball bearing would be necessary as it will already spool up very quickly. (Doesn't the "R" in GT25R stand for ball bearing?). The turbo I had was used off of a Nissan SR20, was non ball-bearing and worked great. You can also get rebuild kits for them cheap.

I also was only running mine at 10-12psi and in the above 6500rpm's or so it would start to run out of breath. Not sure if it would be different on a D15 being able to run up to 15psi.

 

For 175whp the stock long block will be fine, T25 turbo for sure, and just get a cast log manifold. Not sure what had you worried about the "stock aluminum head" but definitely not a thing to worry about at that power level by far. Also dont bother lowering compression to run "more boost" itll just make less power than the same boost on stock compression, so dont lower cr, lower the boost level. Arp head studs is not bad idea, and lastly $1500 can be plenty to budget boost an all stock single cam. Top of the line isnt always necessary and being patient/settling for a couple used parts can go a long way as well

 

Thanks everybody for schooling me. Also, if the manifold has a wastegate port, does that mean I would have to get a turbo that does not have an internal wastegate? It seems like unless I run an external wastegate there will just be a big opening in my manifold, or is there a way to just shut that off? I can't weld, but I could have it welded I guess?

 

Yea that or find a wastegate block off, I know they do exist check ebay im sure theres plenty

Vibrant Performance 14290 35-38mm External Wastegate Flange Block Off Flange | eBay

 

I was running that same turbo on a del sol with both 1.5 and then 1.6 blocks, only 7 psi. Same issue somtime past 6k it would start to run out of steam I think that turbo can only support so much power but it was very responsive and a blast to drive

 

Yep it was amazing for a street car. I never dyno'ed mine or had it pro tuned, just street tuned myself with safe AFR's and timing and it still pulled like crazy. Ran a 13.2 in the 1/4 with poor driving skills and a clutch slipping thru all of 3rd gear. After that I swapped the clutch to an ACT but never went back to the track with it.

 

Okay, here's an update. I think I've decided to make my own intercooler piping because I'm almost past my budget. Here's a list of the parts I've found and their prices, so if anybody knows of where I can get a part that's equal quality for less money it would be greatly appreciated.
Exedy stage one organic clutch ($294)
Go Autoworks cast iron turbo manifold ($140)
Go Autoworks 2.5" downpipe ($295) <-kinda feel like I'm getting screwed on this one?
HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve ($30)
DSM 450cc Turbo Fuel Injectors ($112)
ARP Headstuds ($145)
and still looking for what good turbo and intercooler I can get in my budget. I've been looking for T25s but I guess I'm a noob at searching.

 

If you're only spending $30 on it, chances are you're buying a rip-off "HKS" bov unless you're getting a hell of a friend discount

 

Unfortunately, you would be correct :/ Thanks for catching that though!! I These knock-offs are sneaky

 

IMO the best option for the downpipe is to buy a 5-bolt t25 flange and have an exhaust shop or friend weld up the pipes to it. If you're already making the charge piping then I assume you have the means to do this.

Keep in mind with the DSM injectors, I believe you need to wire them thru a resistor block.

This is reminding me more and more of my old del Sol setup.

 

Go autoworks downpipes are not cheap but they do save you lots of hassles and fit well, to me that is worth the price

ATPTurbo.com or Pm theshodan would probably be the easiest way to find one there not very popular as most ppl go much larger these days

 

I honestly didn't even know I would need a resistor block, but thanks for saving me from frying my ECU! Do the resistor blocks vary in quality very much? I found one cheap from a 89 crx on Ebay, and I think I'm going to a junkkyard today.

 

If I'm not wrong, these cars all have turbos that would be decent for my application, correct? Can anybody tell me how much I should be willing to spend on a junkyard turbo?
95-99 Eclipse GST

Thunderbird Turbo

Mustang SVO

84 dodge 600 ES

82-89 Mitsubishi Starion

96 Lotus Espirit

91-96 Nissan 180 SX

91-93 Silvia

Nissan 300ZX TT

 

You can use OEM turbos, but you'll have to find a manifold to suit it. For your power goals, it might honestly be worth looking into an HF manifold with an adapter plate. You're not shooting for the moon (power wise), so it should do the trick - and it gives you some flexibility in the turbos you choose.

HF Manifold Discussion - Honda-Tech


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+1 on this.

I used an HF manifold with adapter plate to run a T25, then bought the exhaust flange and welded up a crappy downpipe. For smaller turbos and HP goals where flow efficiency doesn't matter as much, this is the best route imo. Still spooled great.

 

Any box should do fine as long as you wire it correctly. Also keep in mind that if you go with DSM injectors, the injector clips will not fit. Preferred method is to get the DSM clips along with the injectors, cut off the Honda clips and then reconnect the wires to the DSM clips.

 

Yes. you need a resistor pack from an older CB7 1991 Accord, a DA Integra, or you can go with individual resistors, to run your Keisin DSM 450cc Injectors (they have about 2.3Ohms reading)

But your ECU (yes, even a honda modified one) can't change the ohm resistance from low impedence to high impedence. That's strictly electrical and not computer controlled in anyway. You may find one or 2 in a junkyard, but it's getting more difficult to do so. The resistor packs don't vary much between years, but you definitely want to look at pre 1994 models of Hondas. That's your best bet in finding one.

EV1 (aka "OBD1) clips will also work. Anyone that sells a Rochester/Lucas style injector like a Delphi or Keisei (Mitsubishi) can do that as well. Just have to call a couple of injector companies. They aren't expensive. About $12-$!5 for the set. My wife still has her 3S-GTE 440cc low z injectors on the EM1 Civic. They run just like a dream. But, that's also because we had them cleaned and flow-tested first before using them. Made sure the pintles worked, cleaned the injector filters on the inlet, etc. I suggest the OP does the same.

 

Does anybody have opinions on a Garrett T17 pulled from a Saab 9-5? Is it worth picking up for about $100 or no? I read that it has a quick spool, and would be a decent turbo for my goals
Or a Borg Warner K03 from a 2000 New Beetle?

 

 

The older Saab 9-3s are a bit more usable if you can find a good unit. The K03s are ok, but a K04 is a nicer option from an Audi, which are more plentiful to find. Integration will be somewhat of a bitch on the K03/K04, so that's what will make going this route expensive.

If you're going to get a used turbo that can be serviced and isn't beat to hell, I suggest an Evo III 16G from a DSM owner. Skip the stock T25 housed turbos completely.