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I have a b18b turbo and I usually run my oil level at the top dot on the dip stick. I was under the car and notice I few things that worried me. In the pics below us can see alittle burnt oil on the exhaust housing.
Don't know if im running to high of a oil level, so I took the oil drain line off at the pan on level ground and about 3/4 a quart came out. This is how high my return bung sits.
After the oil stopped coming out the return bung I rechecked the oil level and it was at this.
Should I try running the oil level between the 2 dots? I really don't feel comfortable running the oil on the bottom dot due to some oil going in the catch can. Thanks for any help.
I have a b18b turbo and I usually run my oil level at the top dot on the dip stick. I was under the car and notice I few things that worried me. In the pics below us can see alittle burnt oil on the exhaust housing.
Don't know if im running to high of a oil level, so I took the oil drain line off at the pan on level ground and about 3/4 a quart came out. This is how high my return bung sits.
Should I try running the oil level between the 2 dots? I really don't feel comfortable running the oil on the bottom dot due to some oil going in the catch can. Thanks for any help.
You're creating a small oil back-up condition, and the oil splay is bypassing the oil sealing ring in the CHRA of the turbocharger itself and is "coking" (in which you're seeing the oil sludge out of the turbine housing bolt, which is right at the rear portion of the turbine shaft and heat shieldthat is part of the CHRA), which may explain the loss in oil on the dipstick itself. (The oil level should be slightly higher towards the upper dot of the dipstick). If the turbine housing were removed, you'll see caked up sludge on the turbine heat shield and "coked" oil on the turbine shaft itself. The oil you're missing on your dipstick is being collected there... eek!
The reason why you have an oil back-up condition is because you're using a 90 degree fitting right off of the turbo into the oil pan at a straight angle, when the oil pan needs to be "gravity" fed. ("Gravity" feeding the oil pan is done by allowing a slight downward-angled "slope" to the oil pan return flange bung.)
This is from your exhaust manifold seating the turbocharger too low to the level of the OEM oil pan. You may have be resorted to:
1) replacing the 90* fitting with a 45* and allowing a small slope downward to the new location AND
2) relocating the oil drain fitting a few millimeters lower on the oil pan
As of now, you're fine, but you don't have a lot of time to perform this. The rear oil sealing ring will allow for a bit of oil to bypass into the turbine housing for only so long, then you'll have damaged both the oil sealing ring and the turbine shaft of the turbo.
Warning Note: PLEASE CEASE ALL DRIVING UNTIL YOU HAVE REPLACED THESE COMPONENTS.
Thanks shaldon I have a 45 degree 10 an fitting I can use, so I should also move the bung down a few millimeters? Also the oil level leave it at the second dot?
I would say put the 45* on there and see what it looks like before resorting to moving the fitting on the pan you can post pics once that is done for a second opinion, and fill your oil up properly to the top dot which is max oil. The second dot is the minimum oil you can use and if it goes any lower it can cause damage to your engine
Ok I will add the 45 degree fitting today after work report back thanks again guys this build/turbo only has about 250 miles on it so hopefully the turbo is still ok
On my mini ram setup I had to run a 45 degree barb fitting to get the right angle, my 45* AN fitting would hang way too low. I also trimmed the lip off of the threaded plate that mounts to the bottom of the turbo and retapped it to get more elevation. Here is a pic of my setup. Hope that helps.
i think im going to have to do this as well. my old garrett t3/t4 i think is slightly smaller than the predator i bought from Shodan in which my return line setup may be slightly longer and i cant get the angle i want. not to mention this on moroso oil pans. they need to add a secondary bung on the other end of the box portion of the pan. tbh, i think the moroso oil pan is designed for a top mount turbo due to the location of the return bung. looks like i might be removing my pan to get this hole made on my oil pan.
The actual weld-in bung....will probly have to be sourced online, unless your area is well supplied.
Need steel, btw, unless you have the baller aluminium pan.
I got one at a diesel shop, but it was bigger in every dimension than needed/wanted.
Of course I used it anyway being impatient, and ended up with kinda shitty result.
Yes, Moroso pan sucked for location.
Looks like those MHH gaskets are made of what the OEM valve cover gaskets we used to sell for L series Datsuns were.
Wonder why no other aftermarket makers have caught on? Cuz I want CHEAP!
Might have to cough it up tho, tired of the nasty leak.
It was a jegs weld in steel bung. $3~ iirc. Be aware the moroso pans are galvanized inside and out, so grind off the surface coating and/or wear a respirator while welding it.
Looks like those MHH gaskets are made of what the OEM valve cover gaskets we used to sell for L series Datsuns were.
Wonder why no other aftermarket makers have caught on? Cuz I want CHEAP!
Might have to cough it up tho, tired of the nasty leak.
Yea they seem fairly simple, some type of fiber/paper like material. they do seem a bit overpriced however they dont leak. Im in the process of removing the old gasket which is a pain, had to remove my pan one of my oil squirters got destroyed, piston skirt must have made contact.
It was a jegs weld in steel bung. $3~ iirc. Be aware the moroso pans are galvanized inside and out, so grind off the surface coating and/or wear a respirator while welding it.
I also have the ARP oil pan stud kit.
**** my bad I thought the moroso pan was aluminum.
It was a jegs weld in steel bung. $3~ iirc. Be aware the moroso pans are galvanized inside and out, so grind off the surface coating and/or wear a respirator while welding it.
I also have the ARP oil pan stud kit.
thanks ill check it out and i also have the my honda habit stud kit so im covered there. ill probably wont use a barb fitting on my return line
Assistance NEEDED: Turbocharger Oil drain route & level question
