Before I get flamed for not searching on this topic, I have been for the past two days.

I recently acquired a 1994 Honda Accord wagon, LX.

The goal with this car is to boost it after it has served its purpose (temporary DD) and hurt a lot of feelings.

I know that it has the F22B2, which are known for their strength under boost. My first idea was to swap on a B1 head to give me a little more oomph with boost. But then I read that DSM turbo manifolds can be fanagled a bit and work with the F22A heads, so I may go that route instead.

To open up another can of worms, I stumbled onto some threads talking about the differences between the F series and H series intake manifolds.

So I've got a few questions:

All the the F series heads should fit my B2 block, correct? Short of some wiring and oiling work if I were to go with a B2 head.

Since the F22As do not employ VTEC, I won't have to worry about any of the ECU wiring or oiling, correct? Minus the thermostat and water pipe, it should be all bolt on?

If I were to swap an H series intake onto an F series head, and throw some boost at it, would I see more power down low as opposed to sticking with either the B2 or A intake? Or what about A6 runners with an H plenum? The thread that I'm reading says that setup provides more torque.

Mind you, all of these questions are coming from a guy who has never given a second thought to Hondas. But I picked this Accord up for a screaming deal. And my buddy, who is into Hondas, put the thought in my head that we should boost this once I don't DD it anymore.

Aside from the possibility of the H series intake manifold, I want to keep this engine as F series as possible. Has that ever been used before? Regardless. Onto some input!

 

Keep It Simple, and boost what you have and then go form there!

Yes there are different heads and intakes that will make more power in a naturally aspirated configuration. However, where you are talking boost, I would focus your time and finances on getting a good quality turbo setup for your current engine configuration.

If you so want to upgrade the intake I would go with an F23 intake manifold. Don't waste your time with the F23 throttle body, it's the same size as the F22B2/1. If you want to go to the next stage you could swap in an F22B1 cylinder head with an upgraded camshaft. The B1 head does flow better than the B2. For your goals, you haven't even stated them, I doubt that you will see much of a difference between the 2 heads. Stick with what you have!

What are your goals and what is your budget? Where you are talking about doing a DSM turbo, I'm going to assume that you're not looking to put any real money into this. If that is the case, again I say build on what you already have.

 

I want to go the DSM route because I'm familiar with them. I want the A6 for the sole reason that I can use the DSM manifold. This is going to be an extremely budget build. Under $2,000. My goals are mid 200s. I just want something that will be fun to surprise other cars in. Who will expect an Accord wagon to be decently quick?

 

If you want to use the DSM manifold then you'll need the A1/4/6 head which is a direct bolt on (iirc). You're goals aren't lofty at all and 2k should get you there no problem. But like Ghost said keep it as simple as possible. With forced induction you don't really need to concern yourself much with intake manifolds and runners etc... don't get me wrong if you can get an A6 head from U-Pull-It with the IM attached then have at it but I wouldn't waste your time/money going nuts trying outsource runners, plenums, and TB's, mixing and matching, etc...etc...(ask me how I know) when you're just shooting for 250ish HP. Your best move is either go completely off of what you've got now, as Ghost already stated, OR (if you really want to go the DSM route) grab an "A" head, DSM manifold w/16g, get a big *** exhaust pipe (at LEAST 2.5in), and make sure you vent the WG directly to atmosphere. You'll probably see 250hp at the wheels before you reach 12-14psi (depending on how fudged up your cylinders, rings and pistons are of course?). I made a LOT of mistakes during my build (via bad planning/decision making and not knowing exactly what I was going for) BUT if I had to say to someone, "I wish I spent money here, instead of there", to save them from making some of the same mistakes I did, I'd say don't focus so much on the intake side of things; worry more about getting the air OUT on the exhaust side. I used 2.5in exhaust pipes but I recirc'd the WG... HUGE mistake. Back pressure is my "Achilles heel" had I just vented the WG to atmosphere I'd be seeing tremendously different numbers on the dyno, not to mention I used the worst turbo manifold in the history of turbo manifolds trying to save a buck. So yea man, spend a little on getting big *** pipes. Or just run them straight up through the hood!? Lol! Cause with a turbo the air's GONNA GET IN THERE.... That's actually something Ghost had pointed out to me early on in my build (he KNOWS his **** btw), with FI your intake system isn't as big of an issue as one might think, whereas with a NA setup every little thousandth of an inch matters, the fkn texture of the runners MATTERS, you know? But when you're running a turbo, unless of course it's a race car or you're shooting for BIG numbers, those things don't have such an impact on your HP/TQ numbers because you're FORCING air into the combustion chamber. And 250hp to the wheels is not at all beyond the realm of possibility with a bone stock F22b2/1 intake system. Now if you were shooting for 350-400ish?.... Idk then you might need to start fooling around with different intakes, runners, etc... And I know you're thinking in terms of the powerband, and how the different intake setups will affect it, but overall you won't see/feel much of a difference in that, from one F-series intake to the next, especially where boost is involved... remember we're talking FI here, not NA. What else?.....what else?.... Oh!... I used a F22b2 block in my build and did miles upon miles of reading/research, here's the gist of it; ALL F22A/B blocks are identical (even the F23 blocks aren't far off! I'm using a F23 oil pump) so in terms of swapping heads, it's a dead drop-in from a mechanical standpoint. Now when it comes to putting a vtec head on a non-vtec block there's a very small oil passage, directly above the oil pressure sensor location, on the deck of the block itself, that has to be unblocked... it's just a screw with a rubber grommet, you unscrew that and remove it and viola you have a vtec block. Let me find you a link:
Oil Control Oriface-real Pic Photo by GhostAccord Photobucket
LMAO! How ironic, this is Ghost's PhotoBucket ^^^. Anyway that's the oil passage I was referring to. Now notice how above I said, "from a mechanical standpoint" in reference to the head swaps, the reason I stressed that is because electronically there are several differences which you'll need to be aware of. Differences between OBD1 and OBD2 engines/harnesses/ecu's/etc. and differences between VTEC and NON-VTEC harnesses/ECU's. Now tbh Idk ALL of the differences?... but one big one that comes to mind right off the bat is that a NON-vtec Accord's wiring harness doesn't have a provision for the VTEC solenoid. How you get around that, I have no idea? But I do know there's a way and I'm quite sure a quick search here will give you 100 different options to do so. Anyway, I hope some of this helps? And off course if you have any other questions feel free to ask, there's an incredibly vast wealth of knowledge here on H-T and a good bit of members who are willing to help out. I don't even have a fraction of the knowledge that Ghost has but I do know a good bit about F-series engines and Accords, and I'm always learning and willing to help whenever I can. And lastly, here's a few links which have ALL the specs for ALL the F/H engines so you can see for your self just how interchangeable they really are:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...hread-1232811/
** H/F Series Engine Dimensional Info ** - CB7Tuner Forums

 

Your guys' input has been very helpful. I'm just in the early planning stages of this build. This thing is still my DD! I probably won't pick anything else up for at least six months. Maybe tax return time. But we'll see. Anyways. Off of that tangent. I just want to have all of my research done and a parts list put together so that when I'm in the position to do this, I can pull the trigger on everything at once.

The reason for the A6 is to use the DSM manifold. My buddy and I cut our teeth on DSMs, so we've got a plethora of knowledge when it comes to them. One thing I don't remember is if the 14B/T25/16G can be externally gated or not. Now that you bring up the point of it being forced induction, I see why at such a low power number the intake manifold wouldn't matter very much.

I know that I don't want to dig into the can of worms between OBD1 and OBD2. So all of my (engine) parts will be sourced from pre-'96 cars.

 

OK so if you are focused on traveling the DSM route. Any 90-93 PT3 head casting will work, F22A1, A4 and A6. The A6 having the better of the three camshaft profiles and intake manifolds. If you can find a complete F22A6 head and intake, I would go with that. No need to mix and match any H22 or H23 intake or throttle body parts for your current goals.