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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 11:38 PM
  #1  
grinder_1's Avatar
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Default New member from WA state

Hello all. Just got my first ever Honda yesterday. So I figure it's time to join a Honda forum. I'm pretty much a rookie, so if I post in a wrong topic area, advanced apologies. I now own an 87 Accord. 328,000 miles. Not sure if this is a good place to ask, but I have questions about a couple things. The first is pretty important. The second I need to look into more but I will touch on it last.<br /> The battery light is on, battery in car at purchase was disclosed as weak. I figure no problem. It started, so it will get me home. Well it didnt. Rough idle, stalling, loss of lights.... Etc. So either this car runs off the battery, or voltage regulator/alternator is bad. Got it to an advanced auto parts.. Battery had a dead cell. Replaced. Battery light still on. Did full test. Battery good, starter good, alternator gets a hmmm from the tech. He has never seen it print these results. Nothing.... Load and no load amps are blank. Min max area is blank. The ripple area... Flatlined. He says its not testing bad or good. Before I buy a new one, I wanted to ask if there is a way I can narrow down the problem with a voltmeter, or if based on the other results if there is a particular connection I should start at. A friend wants to come pull it out to try to clean the brushes. I would really like to ne able to use my new var for work monday as the alternative is 3 buses taking 2 hours each way with a mile walk combined. I have been doing this, and just cant do it anymore. Burned out on the 15 hour days. I also have the dash brake lamp light on. All brake lights are working properly.<br /> The second thing is what sounds like a rubbing, or dragging... Almost a grinding in left wheel. Rpm based, but no brake pull, or driving pull. A bearing wanting some lube? Car was well maintained by owner. To the point I can tell you his gas mileage up to aboit 215,000 miles.<br /> Any tips would be appreciated. When I get a little more up to par I can post some pics.<br /><br />Thanks<br />Grinder_1
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Old Dec 18, 2016 | 01:26 PM
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Default Re: New member from WA state

Can't help with the battery problem but the brake light will come on when low on fluid...often from wear. Brake pads have a tab that rubs on the disk to let you know when it's time to replace. Probably needs a brake job. Although adding fluid may turn off the light, when you replace worn pads that fluid won't be needed.
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 10:03 PM
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grinder_1's Avatar
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Default Re: New member from WA state

Originally Posted by DaIll1
Can't help with the battery problem but the brake light will come on when low on fluid...often from wear. Brake pads have a tab that rubs on the disk to let you know when it's time to replace. Probably needs a brake job. Although adding fluid may turn off the light, when you replace worn pads that fluid won't be needed.
Thanks for the response. I should have elaborated a little better. Whatever it is, or was isnt the wear warning tab. I jacked the car up and put it in gear to get the tire spinning, and didnt hear it. Upon putting it back on the ground and driving it... I dont seem to hear it like I did. Odd. I will keep an ear on it.
In regards to the battery light, and charging system questions I had..... Went ahead and pulled alternator out to see if I could clean the brushes to get a system test again. Brushes looked clean, so I took it to auto store for stand alone test. Failed 3 times. So I ask.... I need to drive the car 30 miles to work (1 way). Daylight there, and dark home. Made it home (headlight, and wiper use only. Vehicle was not jerking, headlights were well lit, and no signs of power issue. I know batteries do not like this. I am not draining it dead, and I am putting on charger to recharge it on both sides of tril. Hiw likely am I to cause cell damage doing this for a few days till I can get another alternator?
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