I was finally getting around to changing out my suspension in my car. I was attempting to remove the bolt that holds the LCA to the rear trailing arm at my house and was having some trouble. I hit it with PB Blaster and let it soak overnight. The next day I went to the garage that we have here on the Air Force base to use their lift and tools. The bolt backed out of the side with the threaded collar thing on the trailing arm, but the bolt is seized in the bushing; resultant of this, the bolt backed out of one side only causing the trailing arm metal to expand (See pictures).

This is what the driver side looks like:


Here is the passenger side:


Picture of the nut flange thing



I can't get the bolt to thread back into the threaded pressed thing to the left and the bolt will not back out either, because the inner bushing collar is fused to the bolt. I can cut the bolt and replace it, bend the metal back, and replace the bushing. My question is, what about the pressed-in nut to the left? I'm not sure the condition of the threads, but I'm guessing it needs to be replaced. Is it possible to remove and replace that piece? Also, I realized that I could disconnect the LCA from the sub-frame instead and drop the suspension that way Wish I would have investigated this before.

 

this happens.

drill/grind/sawzall the bolt head off. replace bushing and bolt.

or replace the control arm too. better that way, its two fresh OEM bushings already pressed into the arm.

and no i dont think replacing hte whole arm with some aluminum chinese stuff is any better.

 

Haha, don't worry I wasn't going to. I already sourced a new OEM unit for $70. I started cutting the bolt after posting, but my battery died before I finished; there's always tomorrow. I'm going to get a tap to re-thread the nut flange as well, because I'm almost positive the threads are damaged. Thanks for the advice.

 

Maybe replace the whole trailer, there should be plenty used around, no? Check all the other rear suspension bolts too so the rear is OK for the future, also the toe-arm bolts. Check the trailer bushing for tear, and also clock all of them for your ride height -for the trailers that would mean removing and re-installing the bushings.

Be sure to remount the plastic cover protecting those 'threaded pressed things'. I would recommend not using any grease or locktite or whatever on bolts or bushing-collars. Just clean the bolts after removing and do not tighten them too tight.

 

Thanks. I may have to replace the trailing arm. I'm worried that, after bending the metal back, the rear alignment will be thrown off. This is turning into quite the headache.

 

Don't feel too bad, it happens to many of us! Especially for the nut, and bolt that bolts the lower rear shock. I started to include a new nut, and bolt with our coilover kits for that very reason. It's a pain, but you'll get it. PB blaster, if not, cut, drill. whatever it takes.

 

Thanks. The trailing arm was a loss. I sourced one at the local pick-n-pull and it came off of the donor car super easy; it only cost me $30 bucks. I ordered new OEM trailing arm bushings because the one on the donor was toast. I tried to beat the old one out, but ended up taking it to the shop and pressing it out. I still have to remove the bushing from the passenger side so keep me in your prayers . I'd like to do it with the arm still on the car, because the drum brake disassembly/reassembly isn't something I want to do twice.

 

A Honda dealer or shop should be able to replace the RTA bush with the RTA loosened but not removed from the car.