How is everyone preloading with a staging brake?
I was having a problem with preloading and the staging brake not holding up. Either it wasn't strong enough and the brakes would slip or the tires would drag. Always happened as soon as I used anti-lag and it started making power at the line. It may have been my clutch engaging to quick and making it difficult to preload, I don't know. But Ive always had that problem regardless of clutch I was using. I used a Tilton twin disc w/their hydro release bearing and a Spec twin with factory release bearing. Both with a willwood clutch master cylinder. And same problem with both.
Is there anything special people are doing for preloading?

I remember on Chuck Seitsinger's hot rod civic he had a lever attached to the steering column that went to the brake pedal. So that way he was staging with the front brakes. Is anyone doing anything like that? I know the front brakes will hold the preload easy.

 

my setup is allmotor with factory e-brake so the demand for brake power is a little different but i have experienced what you explained a few times preloading. I start the preload(slip the clutch) process on the first bulb with the factory e-brake, feather the e-brake until the second bulb is lit, then i sit on the launch control, if I feel the car is wanting to move(which has only happened a few times) i push the clutch in very slightly until it holds. this is extremely hard to do with an omni master cylinder and CC Twin Disk with such little time.

 

I use the factory handbrake as well, zero issues with holding power. The only issue I have is driver error with not always releasing the handbrake fast enough, or a few times I didn't hold the button in until it dropped all the way down and it locked while still being pulled up a little which knocked a couple tenths off my time that run and did a good job bedding in the new pads haha

 

Thanks guys.
I think what Im going to do is use the ebrake for the burn out box. But on the line Im going to rig up a lever that pushes down on the brake pedal so I can use it to preload. I don't think the issue was my staging brake/rear brakes couldn't hold and would slip, it was they would lock like they should but the skinnies would drag. So using the front brakes to stage will hold the car still no problem. Its an old school idea and setup from nopi days, but I know it will work. I just have to figure out how to build the lever.

 

if the rears are locked and sliding, you're preloading WAY too hard, no matter what rear tires you're using. the main purpose for preloading is to preload the drivetrain to eliminate gaps and prevent a hammer impact to the drivetrain that could potentially break stuff. it's not to preload the suspension or load up the engine.

I suppose doing it hard enough to load up the engine could help spool a little, but it's going to destroy the clutch and flywheel really friggin fast

 

Right. I understand that and the purpose of preloading for drivetrain purposes. But the clutches Ive been using grab too hard and is very difficult to preload just right. Ill let the clutch out very slowly until the car just starts to move barely. Light the bulbs and hold the staging brake hard. And as soon as I hit my anti lag it starts pulling forward. I have to keep the pedal in that position to preload. If I push it in even slightly to take a little load off the clutch, it disengages completely and Im no longer preloading. Kinda like the clutch is either on or off, no in between. Ive messed with the pedal, the master cylinder (willwood btw) and it doesn't matter. So to eliminate headache, Id rather just use the front wheels to stage.
Oh and yes, preloading to put load on the engine does help spool. And as long as you have a good clutch and don't heat up the discs too much, its not that bad on them.

 

I use my factory ebrake. I just use electrical tape to tape the release button. Pull the ebrake to preload then let go when I launch. easy

 

why not just use a drift ****???

 

never knew they made such a thing! LOL

 

with all the information you have provided, I would look at your clutch engagement. You're most likely having a slight engagement, which causes you still creep. You have changed clutches and the issue still occurs.