Swap or boost?
Hey guys,
long time lurker but first time poster
so anyways, I have a '97 Honda Accord LX with a F22B2 in it. I just need some help/advice/anything at all to get me where I need to go.
I want my accord to be fast. In a sense of faster then the stock stuff it has. I've done some research and some people say swap the engine but others say the F22 is a good boost. Now I know a basic knowledge of cars and such and how it all works. Keep in mind, this isn't extensive knowledge, just basic.
I was wondering, should I swap the engine to something such as the F22B1? F23? H Series? etc etc. OR should I just boost what I have and go from there. I'm just looking for something to impress friends and not a drag or track car. Just stoplight to stoplight or something that can get up and go.
Please keep in mind, money is a factor but should not be taken accounted for currently as I just want ideas on which way to start heading in. And hopefully the reponses will be indepth as in, if I want to do a swap, do this this this and that or just insert a link to a guide, or just fill me in with knowledge and see where I go from there.
Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!
EDIT: Some people have also said just swapping into the F22B1 as it's just drop in and get the VTEC hooked up and an ecu
long time lurker but first time poster
so anyways, I have a '97 Honda Accord LX with a F22B2 in it. I just need some help/advice/anything at all to get me where I need to go.
I want my accord to be fast. In a sense of faster then the stock stuff it has. I've done some research and some people say swap the engine but others say the F22 is a good boost. Now I know a basic knowledge of cars and such and how it all works. Keep in mind, this isn't extensive knowledge, just basic.
I was wondering, should I swap the engine to something such as the F22B1? F23? H Series? etc etc. OR should I just boost what I have and go from there. I'm just looking for something to impress friends and not a drag or track car. Just stoplight to stoplight or something that can get up and go.
Please keep in mind, money is a factor but should not be taken accounted for currently as I just want ideas on which way to start heading in. And hopefully the reponses will be indepth as in, if I want to do a swap, do this this this and that or just insert a link to a guide, or just fill me in with knowledge and see where I go from there.
Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!
EDIT: Some people have also said just swapping into the F22B1 as it's just drop in and get the VTEC hooked up and an ecu
Last edited by Nebunaut; Dec 5, 2016 at 07:14 PM.
It depends. Boosting is going to add a lot of complexity, additional cost and potential reliability issues. There are a lot more variables with a turbo setup but ultimately it's going to lead to more power than any swap will give you out of the box. You can't cut corners and it is expensive. A decent turbo setup will be between $2000-$3000 and that doesn't include fuel system, clutch, ECU, tune, etc. By the end you'll be looking at around $4-5k. With a turbo setup also comes some inherent reliability issues. Even if all the major components are fine there is almost always something that needs tweaking and additional things that have to be added to your regularly scheduled maintenance. You also run the risk of premature engine failure and generally more wear on components. Another thing to consider is the additional upgrades that the vehicle needs to be able to use the extra power/torque that boost provides like bigger brakes, some chassis stiffening, tires, etc.
A swap is going to be much simpler and cheaper but naturally not as powerful. For about $1800+/- you can have a complete JDM H22, H23A blue top, or F20B and an LSD transmission from an importer. After that add another $1000 or so and that will get you all the stuff needed to put the engine in the car "like stock". Those are the 3 I would stick with. The H23A blue top is a better value than an H22 and if you get the 00-01 model with the PDE head you can expect around 210whp after bolt-ons and a tune. That's Euro-R/Type-S territory for significantly cheaper and more torque to boot. A manual version F20B is going to be a high-revving affair. They lack some torque down low but they make up for it with their high rpm performance. To really enjoy one of those you want short gearing in a car as heavy as an Accord. The JDM H22 will be the middle ground between to two and also more expensive than both.
I've been doing this for years and I can tell you that the best setup you can get is one that works like factory and you don't have to think about. One you can just get in, turn the key, and enjoy. Since you said you just want something to "get up and go" and don't really need anything super fast I would recommend picking up an 00-01 H23A blue top and an LSD trans from an importer. It will be simpler, cheaper, and more reliable. Most people are satisfied with any of the DOHC VTEC engines. You get an actual powerband and an increased rev range with those instead of just a lump of torque in the middle that the F22 provides. Stay away from used engines out of USDM cars as they're typically much higher mileage than JDM imports. Also don't bother with the F22B1 swap. The small gains you would see wouldn't be worth the cost involved.
If you really want boost just be sure to know that it's a very long road to start down with a lot of learning required to do it successfully. It's also more expensive like I said earlier. Good luck.
A swap is going to be much simpler and cheaper but naturally not as powerful. For about $1800+/- you can have a complete JDM H22, H23A blue top, or F20B and an LSD transmission from an importer. After that add another $1000 or so and that will get you all the stuff needed to put the engine in the car "like stock". Those are the 3 I would stick with. The H23A blue top is a better value than an H22 and if you get the 00-01 model with the PDE head you can expect around 210whp after bolt-ons and a tune. That's Euro-R/Type-S territory for significantly cheaper and more torque to boot. A manual version F20B is going to be a high-revving affair. They lack some torque down low but they make up for it with their high rpm performance. To really enjoy one of those you want short gearing in a car as heavy as an Accord. The JDM H22 will be the middle ground between to two and also more expensive than both.
I've been doing this for years and I can tell you that the best setup you can get is one that works like factory and you don't have to think about. One you can just get in, turn the key, and enjoy. Since you said you just want something to "get up and go" and don't really need anything super fast I would recommend picking up an 00-01 H23A blue top and an LSD trans from an importer. It will be simpler, cheaper, and more reliable. Most people are satisfied with any of the DOHC VTEC engines. You get an actual powerband and an increased rev range with those instead of just a lump of torque in the middle that the F22 provides. Stay away from used engines out of USDM cars as they're typically much higher mileage than JDM imports. Also don't bother with the F22B1 swap. The small gains you would see wouldn't be worth the cost involved.
If you really want boost just be sure to know that it's a very long road to start down with a lot of learning required to do it successfully. It's also more expensive like I said earlier. Good luck.
Last edited by Aradin; Dec 8, 2016 at 01:28 PM.
Welcome! F22's are decent motors, plenty of potential and often disregarded. I think a good cheaper motor setup to look into would be a head swap to the better flowing F22A head (90-93 Accord), Install a F22A6 IM, maybe a mellow/mild cam, Go the DSM route w/ a DSM Manifold, Big 16g turbo, 2.5-3" downpipe/Exhaust, Piece together your own FMIC or buy a capable kit(doing a little research here helps), Larger fuel pump to handle the demand (Walbro), 500cc or larger injectors (RC/DSM), Fuel Rail, FPR, Boost Controller, All the necessary gauges, all the wiring - ECU's will be fun w/ you being OBD2, Conversion harness to OBD1 is one route or Stand Alone ECU, then tuning. All this to say go Tires, Wheels, Drivetrain, Suspension/Body, Brakes, so you have a capable platform before worrying on going fast. You also run the possibility of losing your A/C and P/S going boost....Sucks on hot days in traffic.
Woah! Thanks alot man. I appreciate all the useful information. So let's say I swap into the H23A Blue Top. Is it gonna just be a drop in? Would I need anything else extra besides ECU of course and the VTEC wiring?
EDIT:
Just looked on hmotorsonline and found a 00 H23A BlueTop with a 5 speed LSD and PCB ECU for just under 2k. Then, as you said, drop another 1k to make it "stock" and other additions such as brakes, etc.
EDIT:
Just looked on hmotorsonline and found a 00 H23A BlueTop with a 5 speed LSD and PCB ECU for just under 2k. Then, as you said, drop another 1k to make it "stock" and other additions such as brakes, etc.
Physically, yes. It will just drop in. All of your factory Accord mounts will work(no need to find a Prelude mount with this one).
There will be a few other things you need to take care of however. Just off the top of my head:
-ECU. You're going to have to run a chipped ECU calibrated for the engine. That means either a tune or you may possibly get by with a good basemap from a reputable vendor. Since you're OBD2 you will also need an adapter harness.
-IABs. You will need to either delete these with a spacer(way simpler) or wire them up and add components to whatever chipped ECU you get to control them. The H23A has enough torque and doesn't really need them.
-IACV. You will need an adapter from Rosko Racing to run your factory IACV.
-Injectors. You either need to buy different ones or get conversion harnesses(cheaper) from a place like Rywire to use the ones that come with the engine. Your stock injectors will not flow enough for this engine.
-Header/exhaust. Don't bother with a cheap eBay header. The OEM is a good design. I recommend picking up a stock replacement for a 97-01 Prelude unless you're going to drop $275 on a performance header like PLM. You will have to make a trip to an exhaust shop to get your exhaust to mate with the new header.
-You will also need a powersteering bracket from a 97-01 Prelude to keep powersteering.
-Distributor. You'll have to figure out which one will work with your car or do some wiring. For me it was an OBD1 H22 dizzy w/ external coil but I have a 95. You're OBD2 so it might be a bit different.
I believe that's most of it covered. While the engine is out it would be the best time to do a timing belt, plugs, plug wires, replace front and rear torque mounts, and convert to a manual timing tensioner(highly recommended, Kaizenspeed sells it).
There will be a few other things you need to take care of however. Just off the top of my head:
-ECU. You're going to have to run a chipped ECU calibrated for the engine. That means either a tune or you may possibly get by with a good basemap from a reputable vendor. Since you're OBD2 you will also need an adapter harness.
-IABs. You will need to either delete these with a spacer(way simpler) or wire them up and add components to whatever chipped ECU you get to control them. The H23A has enough torque and doesn't really need them.
-IACV. You will need an adapter from Rosko Racing to run your factory IACV.
-Injectors. You either need to buy different ones or get conversion harnesses(cheaper) from a place like Rywire to use the ones that come with the engine. Your stock injectors will not flow enough for this engine.
-Header/exhaust. Don't bother with a cheap eBay header. The OEM is a good design. I recommend picking up a stock replacement for a 97-01 Prelude unless you're going to drop $275 on a performance header like PLM. You will have to make a trip to an exhaust shop to get your exhaust to mate with the new header.
-You will also need a powersteering bracket from a 97-01 Prelude to keep powersteering.
-Distributor. You'll have to figure out which one will work with your car or do some wiring. For me it was an OBD1 H22 dizzy w/ external coil but I have a 95. You're OBD2 so it might be a bit different.
I believe that's most of it covered. While the engine is out it would be the best time to do a timing belt, plugs, plug wires, replace front and rear torque mounts, and convert to a manual timing tensioner(highly recommended, Kaizenspeed sells it).
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the H23A VTEC is a great engine to swap. It would be my choice, but I live in California with some lovely smog laws. So I'm in the process of doing a H22A4 swap, and plan to eventually make it BAR legal.
In the meantime, if you want any other suggestions on other parts to modify on the car, feel free to ask! Especially being an LX (like myself), you can greatly benefit from swapping to the EX rear brakes/subframe (aka disc brakes and a rear sway bar). There are plenty of front brake options too, from cheap using other Honda parts to full 4-piston calipers. Also, a good suspension and wheel/tire combo will make a HUGE difference in the handling aspect of the car, which for the time being can really help liven up the driving experience.
In the meantime, if you want any other suggestions on other parts to modify on the car, feel free to ask! Especially being an LX (like myself), you can greatly benefit from swapping to the EX rear brakes/subframe (aka disc brakes and a rear sway bar). There are plenty of front brake options too, from cheap using other Honda parts to full 4-piston calipers. Also, a good suspension and wheel/tire combo will make a HUGE difference in the handling aspect of the car, which for the time being can really help liven up the driving experience.
the H23A VTEC is a great engine to swap. It would be my choice, but I live in California with some lovely smog laws. So I'm in the process of doing a H22A4 swap, and plan to eventually make it BAR legal.
In the meantime, if you want any other suggestions on other parts to modify on the car, feel free to ask! Especially being an LX (like myself), you can greatly benefit from swapping to the EX rear brakes/subframe (aka disc brakes and a rear sway bar). There are plenty of front brake options too, from cheap using other Honda parts to full 4-piston calipers. Also, a good suspension and wheel/tire combo will make a HUGE difference in the handling aspect of the car, which for the time being can really help liven up the driving experience.
In the meantime, if you want any other suggestions on other parts to modify on the car, feel free to ask! Especially being an LX (like myself), you can greatly benefit from swapping to the EX rear brakes/subframe (aka disc brakes and a rear sway bar). There are plenty of front brake options too, from cheap using other Honda parts to full 4-piston calipers. Also, a good suspension and wheel/tire combo will make a HUGE difference in the handling aspect of the car, which for the time being can really help liven up the driving experience.
I bought the H23A Blue Top from a local engine shop. They gave me an ECU, Harness, all wiring, etc with the engine. Just need to get some time off to either do it myself or hire someone else to do it lol.
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