Is there a fix for inaccurate tachometer?
So my odometers been down for quite some time (tried the "flick trick" and replaced the VSS to no avail) and I recently discovered that the tachometer itself is in excess of 1200rpm+ out of sync!? The higher I rev the engine the broader the margin of error becomes? So I'm curious does anyone know if there's a fix for this or if I just need to replace the entire cluster?
All the research I've done hasn't given me a clear answer as I've been unable to find anyone with a similar issue? Most ppl seem to experience the jumping tach or one that doesn't function at all while mine is quite the opposite.... it has the appearance of functioning normally!? It wasn't until I connected to the ecu and took a few datalogs that I realized it was completely inaccurate. And last week whilst having my car tuned the dyno confirmed it beyond a shadow of a doubt. If anyone can help me out or has some insight into this, like if the odometer malfunction and the tachometer issue could be related, and/or if anyone has a fix for this, thatd be GREAT?! Thx in advance!
All the research I've done hasn't given me a clear answer as I've been unable to find anyone with a similar issue? Most ppl seem to experience the jumping tach or one that doesn't function at all while mine is quite the opposite.... it has the appearance of functioning normally!? It wasn't until I connected to the ecu and took a few datalogs that I realized it was completely inaccurate. And last week whilst having my car tuned the dyno confirmed it beyond a shadow of a doubt. If anyone can help me out or has some insight into this, like if the odometer malfunction and the tachometer issue could be related, and/or if anyone has a fix for this, thatd be GREAT?! Thx in advance!
Yup, Accord Tachs just get progressively lazy.
Reads 2500 when actual is 3K, reads 3K when actual is 4K, redlines at ~5K when actually bumping off the factory rev limiter.
On the TechAuto site they have stated that the two or three screws on the back of the tach may back out or loosen causing a fault in the reading.
I have yet to try this on my '95, but have experienced similar problems/fixes on GM vehicles. Connections on back of Tach/cluster board loosen/corrode and the various gauges read erroneously.
JUST DON'T TOUCH THE SCREWS TO THE FUEL GAUGE!!!
Whatever muppet designed the board, used one of the Fuel Gauge attachment 'nuts' as a connection. You cannot overtighten the screws on the gauge, they will just spin. BUT one of the screws is the sensor lead from the tank, if you spin the 'nut' it will break the thin, smaller than a hair, winding lead to the gauge coil and cause it to read FULL at all times.
So no touchy the fuel gaugey.
Reads 2500 when actual is 3K, reads 3K when actual is 4K, redlines at ~5K when actually bumping off the factory rev limiter.
On the TechAuto site they have stated that the two or three screws on the back of the tach may back out or loosen causing a fault in the reading.
I have yet to try this on my '95, but have experienced similar problems/fixes on GM vehicles. Connections on back of Tach/cluster board loosen/corrode and the various gauges read erroneously.
JUST DON'T TOUCH THE SCREWS TO THE FUEL GAUGE!!!
Whatever muppet designed the board, used one of the Fuel Gauge attachment 'nuts' as a connection. You cannot overtighten the screws on the gauge, they will just spin. BUT one of the screws is the sensor lead from the tank, if you spin the 'nut' it will break the thin, smaller than a hair, winding lead to the gauge coil and cause it to read FULL at all times.
So no touchy the fuel gaugey.
Yup, Accord Tachs just get progressively lazy.
Reads 2500 when actual is 3K, reads 3K when actual is 4K, redlines at ~5K when actually bumping off the factory rev limiter.
On the TechAuto site they have stated that the two or three screws on the back of the tach may back out or loosen causing a fault in the reading.
I have yet to try this on my '95, but have experienced similar problems/fixes on GM vehicles. Connections on back of Tach/cluster board loosen/corrode and the various gauges read erroneously.
JUST DON'T TOUCH THE SCREWS TO THE FUEL GAUGE!!!
Whatever muppet designed the board, used one of the Fuel Gauge attachment 'nuts' as a connection. You cannot overtighten the screws on the gauge, they will just spin. BUT one of the screws is the sensor lead from the tank, if you spin the 'nut' it will break the thin, smaller than a hair, winding lead to the gauge coil and cause it to read FULL at all times.
So no touchy the fuel gaugey.
Reads 2500 when actual is 3K, reads 3K when actual is 4K, redlines at ~5K when actually bumping off the factory rev limiter.
On the TechAuto site they have stated that the two or three screws on the back of the tach may back out or loosen causing a fault in the reading.
I have yet to try this on my '95, but have experienced similar problems/fixes on GM vehicles. Connections on back of Tach/cluster board loosen/corrode and the various gauges read erroneously.
JUST DON'T TOUCH THE SCREWS TO THE FUEL GAUGE!!!
Whatever muppet designed the board, used one of the Fuel Gauge attachment 'nuts' as a connection. You cannot overtighten the screws on the gauge, they will just spin. BUT one of the screws is the sensor lead from the tank, if you spin the 'nut' it will break the thin, smaller than a hair, winding lead to the gauge coil and cause it to read FULL at all times.
So no touchy the fuel gaugey.
You too.
Check the main harness connections to the top of the cluster. There is a group of three IIRC, a blue wire and an orange wire come to mind, verify they are plugged in correctly to the connector and the fittings are not dirty/loose.
Check the main harness connections to the top of the cluster. There is a group of three IIRC, a blue wire and an orange wire come to mind, verify they are plugged in correctly to the connector and the fittings are not dirty/loose.
Hey Mike sorry to bump this again but do you know off-hand IF the gauges themselves are interchangeable between 94/95 and the 96/97's? I ask because I grabbed a cluster today at the u-pull-it but it's from an AT so I don't want to use the actual cluster itself, just the gauges from within it... if that's possible of course? Thx in advance man.
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