Sound deadening anyone?
After driving my '00 EM1 over the weekend(after not having done so for over 3 months), I realized how insanely loud this f'ing car is. And no, it's not from a riced out muffler or anything of the sort, it's just wind/outside noise filtering into the cabin. The car is completely stock besides being lowered, and after the 35min drive home from work on Saturday, I was ready to not ever drive it again... it was that annoying. Crazy thing is that it never bothered me before. maybe since I was still in the "fixing it" stages and didn't pay attention to it.
So what has worked for you? Anybody used anything specific to deadened the wind/outside noise in the cabin?
Here's what I'm thinking. If possible I'll get,
New door seals.
New front hood seal.
New fender liners (or used ones - I currently don't have any - sure this is a big one)
Some type of dynamat to apply to floor, inner doors and inner quarters.
Plug up any holes in firewall.
Anything else you guys recommend?
So what has worked for you? Anybody used anything specific to deadened the wind/outside noise in the cabin?
Here's what I'm thinking. If possible I'll get,
New door seals.
New front hood seal.
New fender liners (or used ones - I currently don't have any - sure this is a big one)
Some type of dynamat to apply to floor, inner doors and inner quarters.
Plug up any holes in firewall.
Anything else you guys recommend?
Oh it sure isn't. I had removed the door panels last year to clean the interior of the doors, the window regulators and to apply molylube to the interior metal for rust protection and I can clearly remember not having any moisture barrier.
Thanks for the reminder.
Anything else?
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The impression I got is after adding the plastic moisture barrier that also deadens sound, do something like spray rubber/foam the door panel (door card) itself. I'm not really sure if the extra vibration absorption on the door panel itself will actually aid in sound absorption though. Maybe you could fit some sound deadening material like what's used on the floor to the panel/door card?
The impression I got is after adding the plastic moisture barrier that also deadens sound, do something like spray rubber/foam the door panel (door card) itself. I'm not really sure if the extra vibration absorption on the door panel itself will actually aid in sound absorption though. Maybe you could fit some sound deadening material like what's used on the floor to the panel/door card?
Never thought about applying it directly to the back of the door card, seems like a great idea.
Ha nah I don't hate it that much. Hopefully this car goes to the paint shop after the new year, then it will be completely done

On the forum at diymobileaudio there's a lot of discussion about sound-deadening. Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Page 69 - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum This thread is where a guy scientifically tested a whole bunch of brands of Dynamat type of stuff over a couple years. In the last post he sums it all up. He did another thread comparing it"s effectiveness depending on how it's installed like more coverage, multiple layers, etc. May be TMI for some but great info. Good info also on sounddeadenershowdown website. I deadened my whole car with their stuff.
On the forum at diymobileaudio there's a lot of discussion about sound-deadening. Sound Deadening (CLD) Testing - Page 69 - Car Audio DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum This thread is where a guy scientifically tested a whole bunch of brands of Dynamat type of stuff over a couple years. In the last post he sums it all up. He did another thread comparing it"s effectiveness depending on how it's installed like more coverage, multiple layers, etc. May be TMI for some but great info. Good info also on sounddeadenershowdown website. I deadened my whole car with their stuff.
Wow thanks for the link.
I currently have a 98 EX and a few years prior to that I owned another 98 EX. The dude who I bought from used butyl roofing tape with aluminum backing: Quick Roof Roof Repair 6 x 25 ft. QR625 which you can get at Blowe's or Home(less) Depot. He put in the trunk, floor panels (under carpet), rear deck and in place of moisture panel for doors.
I ended up cutting some of it out in the doors because he put over holes that need access to repair window regulators and door lock actuators... you know the stuff that most 20 year old Civics need replaced every other year or so. Anyway, it was a quieter car than my current one but, not immensely more. However, it's purpose is more for decreasing rattles when adding amps and subs. You want quiet? Install some thick carpet pad and dense carpeting..70's creeper van style..lol
You could pull the door panels off and butyl tape as much of the plastic on the panel as possible without interfering with fit and function. May help with sound and will help with rattles. Also butyle tap the rear deck metal and/or underside of deck. Butyl taping wheel wells inside of trunk may help with road noise. It's a fairly inexpensive product but it's gooey and sticks to blades and scissors.
On my current EX I installed new pioneer 6x9's rears, 6.5" fronts and a new JVC (22w RMS) head unit. It carries decent bass (not close to sub territory) through the 6x9's for the type of music I listen too. WHen I didn't removed the PITA rear deck to remove to install the new speakers. I'm lazy and not too concerned about drilling holes through deck to easily remove speaker screws. Anyway, after new speakers were installed the rear deck was rattling pretty bad when me jams were cranked. so, I watched a few youtubes and a young dude recommended shoving old socks between the rear deck trim and metal frame. Of course, the lazy, easy way appealed to me so I stuffed quite a few in and, while it didn't eliminate the rear deck rattle..it greatly reduce it.
I ended up cutting some of it out in the doors because he put over holes that need access to repair window regulators and door lock actuators... you know the stuff that most 20 year old Civics need replaced every other year or so. Anyway, it was a quieter car than my current one but, not immensely more. However, it's purpose is more for decreasing rattles when adding amps and subs. You want quiet? Install some thick carpet pad and dense carpeting..70's creeper van style..lol
You could pull the door panels off and butyl tape as much of the plastic on the panel as possible without interfering with fit and function. May help with sound and will help with rattles. Also butyle tap the rear deck metal and/or underside of deck. Butyl taping wheel wells inside of trunk may help with road noise. It's a fairly inexpensive product but it's gooey and sticks to blades and scissors.
On my current EX I installed new pioneer 6x9's rears, 6.5" fronts and a new JVC (22w RMS) head unit. It carries decent bass (not close to sub territory) through the 6x9's for the type of music I listen too. WHen I didn't removed the PITA rear deck to remove to install the new speakers. I'm lazy and not too concerned about drilling holes through deck to easily remove speaker screws. Anyway, after new speakers were installed the rear deck was rattling pretty bad when me jams were cranked. so, I watched a few youtubes and a young dude recommended shoving old socks between the rear deck trim and metal frame. Of course, the lazy, easy way appealed to me so I stuffed quite a few in and, while it didn't eliminate the rear deck rattle..it greatly reduce it.
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