I have a 91 HONDA ACCORD LX PGM FI SEEMS TO BE not working everything I've researched said bad main relay so got a new one didn't work all the car does is crank and crank and crank tried spraying starting fluid in the intake while cranking it over nothing but I got spark and 40 psi fuel pressure to the injectors also did time center timing check timing good get spark getting fuel to injectors does anyone have any idea what to do anyway I could possibly reset the ECM ECU could I possibly need a EFI RELAY which don't know where that is all I know under the hood in fuse panel???? Tried replacing the main fuel relay nothing I just don't understand why the program fuel injection (PGM FI) not work or why when trying to start the car with starting fluid why the starting won't at least let the try to start....

 

If it's not trying to start with starting fluid, and you know for sure that you have fuel and spark, it is more than likely a timing issue or something mechanical. Possibly a broken timing belt???? Do both the crankshaft and camshaft rotate when you are cranking the engine. To see if the camshaft is rotating you can remove the oil fill cap and watch or remove the distributor cap.

How did this issue come about? Did it just quit on you or is this after doing some sort of work to the engine?

A little bit of a background information will help us help you.

Sometimes it can be as simple as forgetting to connect the engine harness ground (G101-ECU ground) to the thermostat housing. Or it could be that the distributor was forced on 180° out. Then it could also be a bit more complicated and start getting into the electronic issues.

 

Done check timing timing OK check it top center.. problem started like fuel filter needed to be changed cause driving and stalled out sometimesome would start back up sometimesome had to wait 15- 20 minutes... I bought injector clean Friday changed the fuel filter Saturday fired right up drove 3 miles shut off the car now the PGM F1 seems to be not working... wonder if the PGM FI not working is if that why starting fluid didn't start the but again it does get sprayed in the intake.
I believe if I can get the PGM FI working the will start Just wondering is there a relay for the EFI by ITSELF????

 

If you have spark your ECU is working. Was the car just shutting off completely while you were driving? Were there any lights/gauges working or not working when it shut off?

Please punctuate your writing. It's incredibly frustrating for others to read and you will get less helpful responses, if at all, because of it.

 

It's started off acting like the fuel filter needed changed stalling out on take offs then maybe start back up maybe not. GOT INJECTOR CLEANER FRIDAY NIGHT PUT IT IN DROVE AROUND NEXT MORNING CHANGED FUEL FILTER DROVE 3 MILES SHUT OFF THE CAR AFTER THAT HAVEN'T STARTED SINCE.. LIKE I SAID CHECKED TIMING TOP CENTER IT'S GOOD GETTING 40 PSI FUEL PRESSURE AND GETTING FIRE... THE PGM FI JUST NOT DOING ANYTHING

 

Sorry for all the caps phone keeps freezing

 

Did you figure this out yet? I had something like this happen with my original CRX but I could get it to fire randomly. Turned out to be my rotor button in distributor (little screw fell out holding the rotor button in place so it would rotate, but not in proper order). If you're getting fuel and spark on time then there's no reason it won't run... As you said, the starter fluid would at least yield a result of some kind.

 

Unless the plugs are fouled. You can try to start it all day but if the plugs are fouled/flooded it will not start. Please replace spark plugs if you haven't.

 

The first thing that comes to mind is the electrical (spark). I would work your way from the plugs back to the coil double checking that everything is tightened and connected properly, I had an issue where the distributor wasn't tightened properly (from local shop). Your coil may be bad providing intermittent spark. I had also had an issue (from same local shop) where my aftermarket fuel rail and Fuel pressure regulator were installed incorrectly, Leading me to lower fuel pressure. That gave me a similar situation to what your describing. The FPR wouldn't get enough pressure built up to properly start the car after it had been driven over 1.5 miles (engine warm). I now do almost all work myself and have had fewer issues because of it.

Main idea is to stick with it and figure it out, your car will treat you better if you do.

the distributor issue took 1 week to track down and the FPR issue was a 2.5 week head scratcher.