I have a b20vtec with arp head studs and rod bolts with a type R head , can the block handle 300 hp?

 

Ehhhh it would probably be good to not rev it it too high, or at least use meth or e85 if you do.

I say because b20s are thought to be limited at around 300whp safely on stock sleeves, though it really comes down to the tune first and foremost and perhaps how well your block was built (heard a rumor that there was a 'bad batch' of b20s)
There have been some ridiculous stock sleeve b20s but they are exceptions in the statistics. Revving yours too high puts the sleeves at higher risk because of cylinder temps and overall endurance of more stress in a shorter period of time. I imagine with e85 or water/meth injection you could revv it all you want at 300whp

 

Oh also stock rods will probably give out if you rev too far over 7k :p

 

agreed stay within the rev limits of oem configuration and I dont see a problem with 300 HP factory redline is 6800 or so depending on which variant b20 you have

B20B/B20Z2[edit]

• 1999 - 2001 specs

Non VTEC

• Found in: USDM CR-V as a B20Z2, CR-V and Honda Orthia as a B20B
• Displacement: 1,973 cc (120.4 cu in)
• Power: 150–148 hp (112–110 kW) @ 6200 rpm
• Torque: 140 lb·ft (190 N·m) @ 5500 rpm
• Rod length: 137 mm (5.4 in)
• Compression: 9.4:1 (P8R)-9.6:1 (P75)
• Bore: 84 mm (3.3 in)
• Stroke: 89 mm (3.5 in)
• Redline: 6,800 rpm

 

well I've done some research and the rods are reviewed as safe to 300hp , I don't plan on revving above 7500rpm cause the rod bolts are the deemed unsafe unless they're arp , so 300hp with what I have would be safe Or not ?

 

You cannot think of "safe" as the edge of a cliff... you don't just go over this point and you die... it is more like a steep slope. There are a lot more B20 engines surviving at 300 wheel HP than there are at 350... and even less at 400. So 300 wheel HP is "safer" than 350... but not as safe as 250. A conservative tune and staying with a redline of 7000 would really be the best idea... and if you can net 300 there... ok. If not, 250-270 is really the sweet spot where you have a really good shot at the engine living long term. ARP LS replacement rod bolts torque to exactly 3 ft/lbs higher torque specs than the stock rod bolt... so you aren't really going to gain any real significant strength there. If you want to rev it well above 7K, replace the rods with some aftermarket ones.

 

I've tuned my buddy's stock internals b20vtec and made 453whp I forgot the torque number and run 10.60 in the 1/4 in a crx revved to 9k and it lasted multi pass at the track, and a full day at the dyno :p so If u plan on revving less than 8500 rpm and around 300-350whp, You'll be having a good time for a lot longer than he did lol.

 

Its not the torque, its the bolts literally stretching.

 

so so if I got forged rods how much rpm would it handle with the stock sleeves

 

if you're getting forged rods then you will pistons as well. I explained the answer to your extremely simple question rather concisely, but it seems you would like to ignore it and ask for spoon feeding instead. When I had the same question in mind for my b20, it took me seconds to find the hp and revving limitations.

 

These items work together. Rods and pistons.

 

Yes, and since the torque spec is only slightly different, this means that the yield point of both the stock rod bolts and the ARP rod bolts are very similar. Short answer: the ARP replacement bolt is not much better than the stock bolt. The stock bolt is actually pretty good as stock bolts go... just don't rev it much above 7K if you want it to live.

 

*edit

Torque spec being "only" slightly different is not an indication that the materials are similar. The ARP hardware will definitely outshine the OEM in longevity regardless of rev. limit.

 

The increased quality of the material is what requires the elevated torque spec over the stock bolt material. Given the dimensional confines of the stock rod, even the better material in this case only creates a marginally better bolt. Moving up to a 3/8" diameter bolt, like what is found in most aftermarket Honda/Acura rods increases the bolt's strength dramatically... really providing that safety margin that we all look for in a quality build.

 

im sorry for your negativity but I'm just trying to learn , and for the record you did not specify the rpm range if I did get forged pistons and rods so don't be upset with me for trying to learn

 

No, I gave you a way to figure it out yourself. In case you somehow haven't caught the memo, the rods are not the only problem

 

Hey folks, I know trying to help to those who are less experienced can be a bit frustrating sometimes, but lets try and keep things friendly. We are all just trying to help each other out after all. Thanks

 

Looking to go boost , going to do a full build minus the sleeves , how much hp can stock b20v sleeves handle ?

 

This is a subjective topic that has a variety of answers based upon varying dyno tests, the person tuning, 3rd party testimonials (i.e. "My boy's cousin's nephew's former room mate). It has been in many threads without a full & final answer. (Because there is none)

But suffice it to say, in general, if you want more than 400whp or so, you're taking some serious risk. If not, then go ahead and give it a shot.

I'll let it go for a while, as this thread, please let it stay on topic.

 

just clarifying , it's a b20b block

 

At least he didn't ask how many boosts it can run!

 

i didn't mean to say wheel horsepower , my bad

 

Horsepower to the wheels is the standard to go by. Not Brake HorsePower

 

pretty sure you got your answer in your other thread you might want to reread that......my favorite response in that thread is below, a google search will give just about the same information

 

too many variables to answer this question. I've personally seen 453whp on a completely stock bottom end, built head, 19-21psi(cant remember exactly), and 650whp on a built b20 engine with GE block guard. If your building the bottom end you might as well save some extra money for sleeves cause even though these setups i mentioned made great power they eventually gave up, 450hp block lasted around 3yrs, the stock pistons and rods were swapped for forged for some reliability but was never dynoed again, the 650whp setup lasted about a year but wasn't raced/beaten alot knowing that it was on edge at all times. with all being said theres no true answer cause it will go when it goes.