My build is coming along, but it's time to install the oil pan and I'm hoping to get a little advice before moving forward.

Vehicle: 1996 Honda Civic DX
Engine: D16Y7
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3 Questions:

1. The baffle seems to be welded in and it makes it tough to clean the sludge on the bottom. Does anyone have techniques or advice on how to clean out the sludge on the bottom of this oil pan? I'm going to use my compressor with the pressure washer engine cleaning attachment to shoot pressurized mineral spirits under the baffle. Hopefully it works. I'm open to all suggestions

2. My gasket seems to be a little loose on one end. Is this normal, will it be ok to install or should I get a different gasket? The gasket is a Victor Reinz from Rock Auto. Photos are posted below.








I just installed the thermostat housing with thermostat, connecting pipe and water pump. And this is where I'm at in the build:



Thank you!

 

After a little more research and going back over the Helms FSM and Haynes manuals, I proceeded to do the job.

Answers:

1. The pressure washer engine cleaner with mineral spirits seemed to do the trick. I was able to fit it into the two larger openings in the baffle and with the 80 degree angled tip I think I was able to hit every area of the bottom of the pan. After that I poured in some regular oil to do a final rinse, then drained it real well and it came out looking the way it should, so I think it's good. A little help with the other questions will be appreciated.

2. After thoroughly cleaning both the engine block and oil pan using a 3M pad with brake cleaner - after scraping off all the old gasket - I decided that the gasket would work. I used a fair amount of Black RTV on both ends (no more than 1/16" thick) in the areas stated in the Haynes manual and then finger tightened it (about 3 ft-lbs?). After an hour from the time I originally finger tightened it, I will go back and torque it to spec in 2 passes in the order stated in the factory service manual.

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I'm a little surprised I didn't get any comments on this. This has been a learning experience that hopefully helps keep others from making the same mistake. Mistake #1 was buying an after market oil pan gasket. Mistake #2 was deciding to put it on even though it didn't seem to fit perfectly.

I installed it with 8.7 ft-lbs torque as stated in the FSM, in 3 different passes using the star pattern, and starting in the center. He first pass was simply finger tightened, the next pass was up to only 5 ft-lbs, with the final pass taking it to spec. Regardless, the gasket squeezed out. So, I stopped by the dealership today and forked out the $51 for a genuine gasket, which I can already tell is a stiffer rubber than the after market. It also has metal washers/spacers embedded in the gasket to help prevent the gasket from getting crushed upon torquing to specs.

I will clean lean it up again and put the new genuine gasket on tomorrow. This time, rather than RTV, I will use Permatex "The Right Stuff" grey. It's an anaerobic sealer which means it is capable of curing properly in the absence of air. That's what you want in this application. So, this round should go much better.

 

With a steel pan, make sure the flange area of the pan is flat. Someone having overtightened the bolts in the past will cause the pan to be dented upward around the bolt holes, which will cause leaks. Such bending can be carefully hammered back down.

 

Thank you for the advice! I took a look and my oil pan looks perfect in that sense. I should have taken some pics, but I just wanted to get it off and cleaned up. This is starting to feel like the never ending build... The oil pan didn't actually leak, I didn't give it a chance, but the gasket was squeezed out quite a bit and I just didn't trust it. I'd rather fix it now while I have the engine out of the car. I have it all cleaned up now and have the dealer gasket and a tube of Permatex "The Right Stiff" Grey, for imports. So I'm just about ready to redo this and get on with this build.

 

The Honda OEM oil pan gasket is really the way to go. It fits perfect, and that's what you want.

 

One thing I hadda redo was put the silicone around the base of the studs and bolt holes. Good luck!

 

Why'd you have to redo it to put sealer around the base of the studs, or "inner threads" as the manual states? Was it leaking and did that fix it? Also, were you using a Genuone Honda Gasket?
I'd like to make sure it's perfect while I have easy access upside down on the engine stand, but I really don't want to do this a third time unless it's necessary. With that said, plenty of people have installed their oil pan gasket completely dry and never had a leak, so I think I'll be fine.
When I installed it this time around, I applied Permatex grey "The Rigt Stuff" only to the areas noted in the Helms manual, but I neglected to do the threads of the bolts. I wonder if it would break the seal if I did one at a time. It might be best just to leave it be. I feel like it'scompletely sealed this time. I'm getting ready to boot on the freshly rebuild head, and this build is almost done, so I'd like to just move on, but I also don't want an oil leak after all this work.

More input would be appreciated. If you REALLY think it's going to leak because I didn't RTV the studs, let me know. If so, do you think it would be a bad idea to take out one at a time, RTV it, torque it down and move on to the next one?

Thanks.
M

 

The Service Manual gives two different sets of instructions for installing the gasket:

• D16Y5/D16Y8: HondaBond on the entire mating surface
• D16Y7/D16A2: HondaBond only on 4 contact points, with none anywhere else

You mentioned having a D16Y7, so the second procedure seems to be the recommended one. Also, the OEM gasket can be found online for 1/2 the price your dealer charged (e.g., HondaPartsNow).

 

I used the sealant in the exact locations as stated in that exact manual. However, the fourth bullet point down is what I'm concerned with.

It states:
"To prevent oil leakage, apply liquid gasket to the inner threads of the bolt holes."

In another thread, others have stated that it's likely to keep the bolts secure so they don't loosen up over time, and that makes sense. Does anyone feel that this is absolutely necessary though? I've already installed the gasket and Im afraid of breaking the seal by going back and undoing the bolts. Then again, I could probably use a clamp to hold it down in each area where I undo the bolt to add locktite or sealant. What do you think, should I leave it be?

 

This is what I posted up in the other thread. In the other thread they were talking about sealant vs no sealant and the overall consensus was that it works best without the added liquid gasket. And basically there is no need to put a gasket on top of gasket, let the gasket do it's job. My belief is to do it the way this factory service manual states. The people who designed these cars know best.

 

I also follow the service manual instructions.