All guages shut off in middle of driving, car continues to work fine.
I have a 1994 Honda Prelude Si H23A1 all stock. I have been having a few strange electrical issues, yesterday I was on a long 100 mile drive and about 20 miles in I was driving along at about 50mph when my speedo and rpm gauge just dropped to zero then the gauges completely shut off speedo, rpm gauge, fuel gauge, temp guage, really everything on the dash only to come right back on and function properly a few seconds later (Its a digital gauge so it just goes black when its off) this happened twice during my drive. No perceivable change in the engine when this happened, everything other than the gauges seemed to be working fine radio, headlights, etc. Then tonight it did something weird again, I turned the key to the on position before starting the car when normally the bulb check happens but nothing happened no lights or anything on the dash but the car still started and gauges worked fine after it was started. I have put 70,000 miles on this car and this is the first time it has done anything like this, I'm a bit baffled as what could cause it my friend said maybe the alternator but I'm not sure.
First thing I would do is replace the cluster, [instrument] fuse it may be defective, [broken].
A blown fuse is easy to see, [burnt fuse filament] and current will not pass through it, on the other hand a "broken" fuse is hard to spot and can pass current.
What happens is fuse filament brakes where it is attached to the "legs/ terminals" of the fuse and is very hard to see, it will also still make contact with the leg so still pass current until the connection is broken because of load or vibration, so when testing fuses use a 12V test light, [NOT led type] and test the fuse in the fuse box, testing at both test tips, but the best way is to replace it with a known working fuse or a new one, I will swap it with an known working same amperage fuse in the fuse box.
If problem persists, you know it was not the fuse and it cost you nothing to try, if on the other hand the problem moves to the new load and the cluster problem is gone your ahead of the game and it cost you nothing but a new fuse and very little time. 94
A blown fuse is easy to see, [burnt fuse filament] and current will not pass through it, on the other hand a "broken" fuse is hard to spot and can pass current.
What happens is fuse filament brakes where it is attached to the "legs/ terminals" of the fuse and is very hard to see, it will also still make contact with the leg so still pass current until the connection is broken because of load or vibration, so when testing fuses use a 12V test light, [NOT led type] and test the fuse in the fuse box, testing at both test tips, but the best way is to replace it with a known working fuse or a new one, I will swap it with an known working same amperage fuse in the fuse box.
If problem persists, you know it was not the fuse and it cost you nothing to try, if on the other hand the problem moves to the new load and the cluster problem is gone your ahead of the game and it cost you nothing but a new fuse and very little time. 94
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DEPintheCurve
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
8
Feb 22, 2018 03:35 AM



