poison

Sup everyone! First off, thanks for clicking on the thread, cuz this problem is driving me up the wall!! I've been having this issue for going on almost 5 months now, so any advice/insight would be great.

Vehicle: 92 Civic DX with Comptech S/C'ed Type R K20A, Kpro
The car used to be an automatic with the gear position switch bypassed.

Problem: Car will not crank.

Background and troubleshooting:

This problem has been going on for a good 5 months now. For a while, it was intermittent. Where sometimes the car will start with no problems randomly, and I'd drive it. Then the times where it would not start, I would just click over about 10-15 times and it would eventually start no problem. It wasn't a matter of being warm/cold outside, because it was at complete random.

Now, the problem 100% is it won't start. I've isolated the following:

- Replaced battery
- Replaced starter
- Used another known good working Kpro ECU
- My kpro cal has immobilizer and multiplexer disabled
- Have used another known good ignition switch
- Have used another known good main relay (several of them)
- Checked all fuses several times and they are good and correct amperages
- When the key is on the first position, lights/radio, all accessories will turn on
- When the key is on the second position, fuel pump DOES prime and CEL comes on and turns off after 2 seconds
- When the key is on the third position (start), nothing happens. All accessories and fuel pump is still on standby

I have jumped the starter solenoid to the battery with the key in the second position, and the car will start no problem.

I also do have an alarm (Python 990), and have traced wires leading to the starter kill relay, and continuity checks are good. I have also checked for voltage at the BLK/WHT wire at the IGN switch connector at the underdash fuse panel, and I get 12v sent to the BLK/WHT wire past all alarm components.

I have also used another IGN switch directly to the car (bypassing all alarm components), and it does the same thing, no starter cranking.

I have checked the power wire from battery to the starter, and we get a solid 12v to the starter.

Checking the BLK/WHT wire from IGN switch to the car side of the BLK/WHT wire (at the starter), when position III to start is engaged, I get no signal to the starter.

I have also checked for continuity between BLK/WHT wire at the IGN switch, and the BLK/WHT wire at the starter solenoid, and continuity check is GOOD.

It seems like there is an additional relay or a break in the BLK/WHT wire somewhere and I can't seem to pin point where it is.

So wtf?? lol I'm at a loss and reaching for other minds. If there is a better diagram or something, or if I am overlooking something please let me know! lol

Been trying to tackle this deal for a long time now. Any input is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks.

poison

bizump!

boostatic

have u checked all of your engine grounds?? if there are not enough grounds it will not crank..or sometimes it will crank and sometimes it will not..

poison

Ill definitely recheck that! Appreciate it!

DDTECH

engine harness you used? if you used a hybrid-racing one ur fine, otherwise your probably not correctly hooking up plugs.

poison

So, I jumped the BLK/WHT wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid and no start.

Then I took the same jumper wire (connected to the starter solenoid), and tapped the positive 12v on the battery, and starts no problem.

What's very odd is as soon as I started it up with jumping the starter from the battery. I cut it off and reconnected the jumper wire to the ignition switch again, and it starts just fine. So, what I did was reconnected the BLK/WHT wire to the solenoid as usual, and again it starts. WTF? Same problem as before!

To throw it really under the curve, in order for it to start, I have to cut it on while the fuel pump is priming within the two seconds (and even that is intermittant); but when when I wait after the two seconds, it will not start..

poison

Yup, I am using hybrid-racing.

poison

Welp, I am getting somewhere!!

It has to do with the alarm and remote start. I disconnected the alarm and the ignition switch with alarm embedded with it, and hooked up a virgin ignition switch. And the engine was cranking no problem. Only thing is the engine did not start (probably due to the alarm).

I'm going to pull the ignition harness out from the alarm and take a look at it.

If anyone has any DEI (Viper/Python/Clifford) wiring diagrams that would be awesome!

fcm

Model number of alarm/remote start??? 94

poison

Problem fixed!! It was the remote start/starter kill. Must have been wired up incorrectly or something. The starter wire (BLK/WHT) is spliced into GRN wire to the alarm, and then goes thru the alarm and to the PRPL wire.

fcm -- do you by chance have a diagram to the ignition kill the way it supposed to be wired?

The starter kill no longer works when armed though. And it also shows as trunk/hatch as open. I'm gonna have to check that wire.

I lost my diagrams to my alarm. It's a Python 991

fcm

Python is one alarm I can not retrieve install manuals for. 94

poison

Really appreciate all the help guys! It turns out it was the ground of the main alarm brain. It was trippin out the starter kill relay and also causing drain on the battery.

It's been fixed. Thanks again!!

Serge Roy

hey man i know its been a while youve posted this but i have the exact same problem as you and im looking to take out the auto start and alarm and not shure what to do to take i out and tips and pic of how you took it out ??