Timing out of wack 96 hatch
I have a 96 hatch running a lsvtec b18 bored to be a b20 turbocharged low compression.
If timing is way out could that throw a air/fuel code?
Make extreme power loss
Engine not turning over
Stalling when it ran.
And turbo glowing working minutes?
If timing is way out could that throw a air/fuel code?
Make extreme power loss
Engine not turning over
Stalling when it ran.
And turbo glowing working minutes?
Set everything back to zero, torque all bolts properly and start over. All of your symptoms are the result of your slipped gears, hopefully you don't have any valvetrain damage.
Probably find a friend to help you?
Torque cam bolts properly, rotate cams back to zero, torque cam gear bolt properly. Do not rotate the engine backwards in the process. Doubtful you can do that one handed.
Torque cam bolts properly, rotate cams back to zero, torque cam gear bolt properly. Do not rotate the engine backwards in the process. Doubtful you can do that one handed.
Trending Topics
Put piston 1 at TDC. You can check it removing spark plug #1 and putting a welding electrode. Then degree the cams to match the zero mark at the head. Your exhaust cam is too way retarded. That makes a lot of heat on the turbo.
I turn them by hand or what's the process with that?
No you don't need to remove the belt/ You need to loosen the adjuster bolts (they probably already are since both cams have slipped in them, all the way to the stops), use a wrench to turn the cams back to zero, and properly torque all of the bolts.
They were likely not properly torqued in the first place. What has happened there is that they slipped, and the outer gear continued to move with the timing belt until they ran out of travel.
They were likely not properly torqued in the first place. What has happened there is that they slipped, and the outer gear continued to move with the timing belt until they ran out of travel.
No you don't need to remove the belt/ You need to loosen the adjuster bolts (they probably already are since both cams have slipped in them, all the way to the stops), use a wrench to turn the cams back to zero, and properly torque all of the bolts.
They were likely not properly torqued in the first place. What has happened there is that they slipped, and the outer gear continued to move with the timing belt until they ran out of travel.
They were likely not properly torqued in the first place. What has happened there is that they slipped, and the outer gear continued to move with the timing belt until they ran out of travel.
For the outer to get it back is that the same kind.
Don't take this offensively... but it seems like you're in over your head and your best bet is to find a mechanic friend or have the thing towed to a shop.
The adjuster bolts are the outer ones. The big inner bolt is what is holding the gears onto your cams. Do you own a small (3/8" or 1/4" drive in-lb) torque wrench?
The adjuster bolts are the outer ones. The big inner bolt is what is holding the gears onto your cams. Do you own a small (3/8" or 1/4" drive in-lb) torque wrench?
Don't take this offensively... but it seems like you're in over your head and your best bet is to find a mechanic friend or have the thing towed to a shop.
The adjuster bolts are the outer ones. The big inner bolt is what is holding the gears onto your cams. Do you own a small (3/8" or 1/4" drive in-lb) torque wrench?
The adjuster bolts are the outer ones. The big inner bolt is what is holding the gears onto your cams. Do you own a small (3/8" or 1/4" drive in-lb) torque wrench?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







