I just got a manual '96 Accord EX (2.2L F22B1), and I'm looking into what upgrades are good for it.

I don't want to swap the engine -- I like the one it's got. I've read that maybe forced induction is good? What else is there that's worth my time and money?

Also for platform, what brands do you guys like and trust?

And where do you guys buy your parts?

 

Fix all that is wrong with the car first.
If the car has over 100Kmiles the front bearings are in need of replacement, they don't howl or make noise like other cars, but you will get funky inner tread scalloping of every other block. Timkein(NTN) bearings from Rockauto are the best deal. Replace the lower BJ as well at this time, Honda has the best quality and deal for the LBJ, only ~$25 each. High mileage studs are known to break. Also a good time to replace the front rotors with everything apart.
Verify input sensors are in proper working order, MAP, TPS, IAT, Thermo, being Speed Density it is very sensitive to any of these sensors being out of order.
Verify timing belt is not in need of service. Belt is usually OK appearing , but its the idlers and WP that get loud and worn out. Gates timing belt kit w/WP from Rockauto is the best deal. Replace the thermostat when replacing the belts as well, only use the Thermostat from Honda, it fails in the open position to prevent overheating/head gasket issues. Also inspect the radiator, Denso radiators can be had from Rockauto for ~$50. Cheap insurance if the rad is over 5years old, upper tank has a nasty tendency to leak and then blow, keep an eye on coolant level and for any suspicious looking drops on the fan shroud.
Verify the valves are adjusted properly, too tight and it will begin to misfire, too loose and not enough total valve lift.
Verify the EGR manifold is clear, again slight misfire and loss of economy during cruise.
Verify throttle body is clean, don't spray it, just wipe the butterfly down with a TB cleaner soaked rag.
Verify throttle cable is properly adjusted. Cable can stretch over time and cause quite a bit of slop, not allowing full throttle opening.
Verify plugs/wire/cap/rotor/O2S are not worn or oil fouled. Honda cap/rotor, Summitomo wires, Denso O2S(they get lazy and may not set a code), and I prefer Denso Iridium TT plugs for consistent fireing.
Verify VTEC solenoid is not leaking, purchase new gaskets from Honda and clean the whole assembly, spool valve can become varnished and tight in the bore.
Verify PCV system is in working order, clear out the ports and valve, a faulty system affects ring seal and increases oil consumption.
Verify no worn/cracked/loose vacuum hoses. Original Honda hoses are fairly resilient.

For engine power, a decent exhaust system. Factory exhaust has a few kinked spots that would impede flow.
For better acceleration the transmission from a Prelude would really wake up the B1s potential. But mileage would be affected.
Factory engine mounts allow quite a bit of play when accelerating, no need to go full on solid mounts or uber fancy urethane, just Prothane front and rear inserts take out the slop. With an M/T you won't notice much engine noise/vibration at idle/stopped.
Turbo is the favored route with the F22s but it can add some complexity.
CAI kits don't really do anything on an otherwise stock engine, same with 'header' sold by various companies. They just tend to crack after a while, stock manifold is fine.

Decent tires will always make the car fun to drive. No need for R6s, but a tire with a aggressive tread and 400 or less tire wear really opens up the fun factor. FWIW I have only gotten into the ABS once with some really old Potenzas. Goodyear RSAs(cop car wheels) are 260 treadwear and only about 70 bucks a pop. Not bad for a sticky street tire.

Suspension replace the sway bar bushings, fronts are usually well worn and soft, Prothane makes a nice bushing front endlink kit for hte 90-97s. If your hardware is still fine it is probably the cheapest upgrade for $8. With the rear replace the rubber grommets on the droplinks, they can be had from Honda for a few bucks as well and greatly improves the tire wear and handling.
Verify the shocks are not leaking or the upper mounts are cracking/blown out.

 

Did about 40% of that already to get it roadworthy, but thanks! I'll look into the rest.

I'm looking at a full platform overhaul anyway (shocks, struts, control arms, all fittings, etc.) -- where should I shop for aftermarket parts?