So I have a fully built sleeved Integra
b18b1 sleeved golden eagle
manley rods
supertech 84.5 pistons
king bearings
Crower components in the head:dual springs, titanium retainers, and 404 cams
aem fuel rail
rc750 injectors
edelbrock intake mani
GT35R turbo
walboro 255
Transmission with LSD
Competition stage 4 clutch
arp mains rods head studs flywheel
act ultra light flywheel
3 inch turbo back exhaust system

Now my question is that I have a gauge on my fuel rail and on my fuel filter no I have a stock for on there for now to try and figure this out at the rail I get 43 psi but at the fuel filter it's like 70 I don't know if this is normal or not and I have been getting terrible gas mileage with it under normal driving conditions like 150-200 miles per tank. I don't know if this is the cause any help would be great

 

Make sure you have this washer at the fuel line were it connects to the fuel rail.


I had the same issue and it was because I had the wrong washer causing a huge restriction in fuel to the rail.


Is the car tuned? Do you have a wideband?

 

Yes I have that washer on the fuel rail it has an aem wide bnd in it and the car does have a.break in tune and it reads like 13.9-14.1 at idle and while driving it doesn't seem to really rich out runs mid to low twelves on the wide and when under boost also is the second pic of the washer u had in there prior?

 

From this, you've answered your own question right there. These "break in" tunes are intended to run very rich, give horrible gas mileage and are not made for driving normally as the piston rings seat and other components settle in. The fact that it is not taking into account the fuel levels from your injectors with the fact that you may need to adjust fuel pressure can easily present undesirable driving behaviours.

Although fuel pressure at the rail seems normal, an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator is best to use to adjust larger injector fuel pressure at the rail in case there are other changes to the fuel system, and an aftermarket fuel rail is a good idea for the Volume of fuel that you're going to be running.

So, short answer, yes, it is normal, but at the same time, no, because you're expecting the car to drive normally when it is on a "break in" tune. Slow down, let the car "break in", then head straight to the tuner to perform a final tune.
You're almost there, so don't rush it. K?

 

No i understand that it will consume fuel what doesn't make sense is 70 psi at the fuel filter nothing om
the tune has anything to do with that

 

That may be true, but 43psi at the line is normal. So that we're not dragging the obvious out of you, did you change fuel filters? did you make sure fuel lines were cleaned and / or replaced?

C'mon. more detail. We're not there with you, so we can't read your mind, or look at the situation at length.... Help us, help you.

 

Re problem began a few months ago when my fuel pressure at the fuel filter was a flucation between 60-65 from the normal 43.you normally have, so I changed out the fuel filter, put a new walboro 255 in the tank with new screens I also put an aem fpr to try and adjust the problem, but that seemed to make it worst because when I would shut the car off it would instant loose fuel pressure to 0.

I know it drops but not like how it was so I put the stock fuel pressure regulator back on; I thought it could have been the injectors, so I took the low impedance 510 cc Evolution injectors I had out and put in high impedance rc750s.

I removed the resistor box and it holds fuel pressure after shut off normally. I feel I am getting tons of unburnt fuel out of the car as I have heavy white smoke at idle, and it's not oil or coolant as the levels have not changed.

My wife and I have a brand new o2 that at idle is at 13.9-14.2 ,(which is pretty fair I believe,) but I just don't know where the sudden jump in fuel pressure at the filter came from as it has never done this before I replaced the fuel rail.

However, (??) that holds the fuel line on with a functioning one from another car and the o ring that goes with it.

 

Ok. Yeah, I don't know where to go with this. There are just too many injector and parts changes. I know it's asking for a lot here, but your descriptions aren't the greatest. Is there any way possible you could post a video at the engine, point and describe what is going on at the current time, without all the changes? You can't just swap out injectors , not readjust the basemap and go from there.

Also, "white" smoke is coolant, but you're saying it's not a problem due to your coolant overflow bottle being full; But that doesn't mean there isn't a headgasket problem.

I'm afraid I'm just out of possibilities until I see something like a video, I hope others can chime in to help, because I'm officially giving this an "I don't know what's going on here".

I have to call this a wrap for my ideas until a video or better description can give more information to at least narrow this down.


Suggestions from others are SURELY welcome.

 

I don't know what else you want to know pressure test on coolant system came back good compression test 140 actoss
tbe board leak down test 2-5 percent in each cylinder putting the stock injectors and stock co purée did not fix the high pressure t the fuel filter either... whatever info you need feel free to let me know

 

The car was built with a base map break in tune on the dyno as well so I can't say it's within the tune because there is no way to adjust the pressure coming from the tank to the fuel filter and the only reason inhad swapped parts was to see if it was one of those things as a quick check to see if it was anything within the parts

 

Yes the second pic is the washer that was in there causing a restriction. I was getting about 70-80psi of fuel pressure before the rail because of it, it also killed a brand new walbro 255 in under 6 months. As soon as I swapped the correct washer in my fuel issues went away along with the fuel pump running a lot quieter.

To me it seems the only reason you would have higher fuel pressure at the filter compared to the rail would be because 1) a restriction before the rail, backing the fuel up and raising pressure or 2) a faulty fuel pressure gauge on the filter. I'm thinking 1 is more likely.

 

I am gonna go through everything in the fuel trend gin nd see why happens before I start the car jut turn the key on I get the 43 psi once the car I running it shoot up

 

Start with the fuel line between the filter and rail, make sure you have the correct banjo bolts and washers. Could be a wrong banjo bolt, too small of a hole??

 

It's the one that came with the aem fuel rail but I am gonna try everything