When performing back to back street pulls checking the plugs between each, what is the generally accepted map timing increment amount to add without blowing everything up? 2 deg between pulls?

I want to raise in increments that are enough to see change without running too far into danger zone. Does it frustratingly depend on your engine/setup/combo/fuel like everything freeking thing else that has to do with ign. map timing on our boosted cars?

Starting with 10psi on 93 oct. Thanks guys.

 

Your best bet is to start with approx 1 degree of retard per psi assuming 28 degrees is your maximum break torque at 0 psi and use det cans or a really accurate knock detection method to determine if you have any real knock.

Hope this helps :-)

 

Thanks, but that isn't exactly my question. When trying to get a baseline in the first place with back to back pulls on the same column adjusting timing between each pull. (I'm sticking with the 8psi column). I just want to first get that column showing the right timing on my plugs, THEN I can apply the concept you suggested to the rest of the higher boost columns.

So again, between pulls, if I add 2 degrees timing on the SAME column after checking plugs and them showing the timing is a little low, is 2 deg a good amount to add without blowing anything up while still showing a good change?

I'm trying to street tune this way reading plugs and listening for knock untill I can get it to the dyno and fine tune it myself.

 

See my post #30 linked below. How much timing you add depends on where the timing mark is showing on the ground strap of your plug and what fuel you are using. If your timing mark is all the way at the tip then add 2-3 degrees, if it's closer to the bend start with 1 degree and see what happens. It's always better to start with less and work your way up. It might take longer that way, but it's the safest way to go about it.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine...3245191/page2/

 

boosted that answered my question perfectly. I was trying to get a feel for what sort of scale of difference I am working with here, and it looks like even a degree of timing can move the timing mark on spark plugs quite a bit. That was the best thread I have read in a while on reading the ground strap!

I think I've decided to go in single degree increments just to be safe. Thanks.

phearable, when you say 28* in the 0psi column is a good place to start, do you mean map timing or actual timing? We're also assuming base timing was set correctly to factory spec @ idle with a good timing light.

 

No problem man happy to help. Typically when people talk about timing numbers, they are referring to what is in the timing map and not actual timing. As far as I know hondata s300 doesn't even show or have the option to log actual timing like Neptune does. What are you using to tune?

 

Ok thanks.

Tuning with Neptune. Been tuning with it for a while, comfortable with it and at this point I have the fuel pretty much dialed in and the comps keeping A/F rock solid at all temps ECT & IAT. Now on to the "black magic" part that is timing.

Another thing I can't seem to find any answer on is part throttle timing. This is an area where knock won't be as apparent, and how do you detect if you have gone too far and are now losing power? Use the butt-dyno for that part?