Rear Toe alignment issue
Hey all,
So, just got back from the shop and had front wheels balanced and full alignment done. One issue, they told me that my rear left wheel was unable to be put into spec Toe range, Min. angle is 0.00 and its at -0.35
They said it couldnt move due to the part being siezed.. They could do it but that would be parts/labour and another alignment. Can someone please enlighten me on which part controls the toe angle and is -0.35 degrees detrimental to the wear of the tire? all and any info is much appreciated.
Thanks, e.p
So, just got back from the shop and had front wheels balanced and full alignment done. One issue, they told me that my rear left wheel was unable to be put into spec Toe range, Min. angle is 0.00 and its at -0.35
They said it couldnt move due to the part being siezed.. They could do it but that would be parts/labour and another alignment. Can someone please enlighten me on which part controls the toe angle and is -0.35 degrees detrimental to the wear of the tire? all and any info is much appreciated.
Thanks, e.p
Look at the bolt that mounts the rear lateral lower control arm to the chassis.
On 90-97 cars this is the rear lower arm.
On 98-02 cars this is the rear lower lateral arm that is parallel to another loewr control arm, not the angled trailing arm.
It will have a nut and a large washer with ticks marked on it. Note the bolt is eccentric to the washer. Loosening the rear nut and rotating the bolt will push/pull the control arm in/out which will change the rear wheels toe angle. What can happen in suspension components is that the inner crush sleeve of the bushing will rust and seize to the through bolt. Since the crush sleeve is bonded to the rubber bushing, it can only twist slightly during suspension movement, it can not rotate. You can try removing the nut and washer and then soaking the bolt and crush sleeve in a rust buster such as Kroil or PB Blaster to free the bolt from the sleeve. This may take several hours and some persuasion to break free. But if the bolt and sleeve are completely rust welded together then you may need to use a torch(MAP gas or hotter) to use heat to break the bolt free, but this will ruin the rubber bushing.. If this doesn't work you will need to cut the cam bolt and remove the control arm. At this point you will most likely need a new inner bushing, or complete control arm and a new cam bolt
On 90-97 cars this is the rear lower arm.
On 98-02 cars this is the rear lower lateral arm that is parallel to another loewr control arm, not the angled trailing arm.
It will have a nut and a large washer with ticks marked on it. Note the bolt is eccentric to the washer. Loosening the rear nut and rotating the bolt will push/pull the control arm in/out which will change the rear wheels toe angle. What can happen in suspension components is that the inner crush sleeve of the bushing will rust and seize to the through bolt. Since the crush sleeve is bonded to the rubber bushing, it can only twist slightly during suspension movement, it can not rotate. You can try removing the nut and washer and then soaking the bolt and crush sleeve in a rust buster such as Kroil or PB Blaster to free the bolt from the sleeve. This may take several hours and some persuasion to break free. But if the bolt and sleeve are completely rust welded together then you may need to use a torch(MAP gas or hotter) to use heat to break the bolt free, but this will ruin the rubber bushing.. If this doesn't work you will need to cut the cam bolt and remove the control arm. At this point you will most likely need a new inner bushing, or complete control arm and a new cam bolt
Look at the bolt that mounts the rear lateral lower control arm to the chassis.
On 90-97 cars this is the rear lower arm.
On 98-02 cars this is the rear lower lateral arm that is parallel to another loewr control arm, not the angled trailing arm.
It will have a nut and a large washer with ticks marked on it. Note the bolt is eccentric to the washer. Loosening the rear nut and rotating the bolt will push/pull the control arm in/out which will change the rear wheels toe angle. What can happen in suspension components is that the inner crush sleeve of the bushing will rust and seize to the through bolt. Since the crush sleeve is bonded to the rubber bushing, it can only twist slightly during suspension movement, it can not rotate. You can try removing the nut and washer and then soaking the bolt and crush sleeve in a rust buster such as Kroil or PB Blaster to free the bolt from the sleeve. This may take several hours and some persuasion to break free. But if the bolt and sleeve are completely rust welded together then you may need to use a torch(MAP gas or hotter) to use heat to break the bolt free, but this will ruin the rubber bushing.. If this doesn't work you will need to cut the cam bolt and remove the control arm. At this point you will most likely need a new inner bushing, or complete control arm and a new cam bolt
On 90-97 cars this is the rear lower arm.
On 98-02 cars this is the rear lower lateral arm that is parallel to another loewr control arm, not the angled trailing arm.
It will have a nut and a large washer with ticks marked on it. Note the bolt is eccentric to the washer. Loosening the rear nut and rotating the bolt will push/pull the control arm in/out which will change the rear wheels toe angle. What can happen in suspension components is that the inner crush sleeve of the bushing will rust and seize to the through bolt. Since the crush sleeve is bonded to the rubber bushing, it can only twist slightly during suspension movement, it can not rotate. You can try removing the nut and washer and then soaking the bolt and crush sleeve in a rust buster such as Kroil or PB Blaster to free the bolt from the sleeve. This may take several hours and some persuasion to break free. But if the bolt and sleeve are completely rust welded together then you may need to use a torch(MAP gas or hotter) to use heat to break the bolt free, but this will ruin the rubber bushing.. If this doesn't work you will need to cut the cam bolt and remove the control arm. At this point you will most likely need a new inner bushing, or complete control arm and a new cam bolt
The alignment bolt is more than likely seized to the metal sleeve in the bushing. You can try to spray it, heat it , spray it again, etc etc. But more than likely, if you want it to move again, you will be replacing the bushing, as well as the bolt
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