99 Civic Ex - Leaking Coolant, overheating, and melted spark plugs
I have a 99 civic ex with a d16y8 engine. I couldn't find the leak yesterday so I jacked up the car today and it is leaking coolant from that white paper like gasket connecting the cylinder head and the upper radiator hose. Any solutions would be helpful.
Last edited by x Twizz; Sep 7, 2016 at 05:17 PM.
It's called the water outlet cover.
Create a liquid gasket using either of these Honda products:
Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket P/N 08718-0004 - Adhesive sealer for metal-to-metal, metal-to-plastic, or plastic-to-plastic bonding. Good for high temperature applications. (This replaced P/N 08718-0001).
Ultra Flange Sealant P/N 08718-0003 - Gray Material used to seal areas as described in service manuals. It can also be used for most gasketless applications except oil pans.
Create a liquid gasket using either of these Honda products:
Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket P/N 08718-0004 - Adhesive sealer for metal-to-metal, metal-to-plastic, or plastic-to-plastic bonding. Good for high temperature applications. (This replaced P/N 08718-0001).
Ultra Flange Sealant P/N 08718-0003 - Gray Material used to seal areas as described in service manuals. It can also be used for most gasketless applications except oil pans.
So the other day my 99 Honda Civic Ex was overheating so I did a pressure test on my system and found that my radiator was badly cracked so I replaced it. Since I was already by the thermostat anyway I opted to replace it also. I was happy until I realized my radiator fan was not turning on so I checked the fuse and that was fine. Then I connected the fan to my battery and it turned on so I ruled the motor out. In order to test my relay I jumped the fan switch with a paper clip and my fan turned on. What is your opinion on what my next steps should be?
After bleeding (purging the air) and confirming it is full(*), if it still overheats put a paper clip in like you did and test drive with the fan running all the time. If no overheating then, replace the fan switch. If it does overheat even with the fan running all the time clearly there's a different problem.
(*) Park on level ground. Wait until the engine is completely cold. Take the radiator cap off, radiator should be full to the top.
(*) Park on level ground. Wait until the engine is completely cold. Take the radiator cap off, radiator should be full to the top.
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Keep in mind, based on temperatures it could take a while to kick on. Even here in Texas, at night, it took a while...i was beginning to question if it worked or not haha. Also as others suggested replace the sensor, its a real quick repair.
tried removing my spark plugs and my ignition coil was melted on to my spark plug so I was only able to pull out the cable that goes to the ignition coil. In order to remove my spark plug I had to unscrew it with the ignition coil still on it. will replacing the ignition coil on the cable be difficult
Last edited by x Twizz; Sep 15, 2016 at 05:25 PM.
Did you bleed the system? Test with the fan running all the time?
If you don't resolve the overheating you're just going to melt the new wires again, and also risk more serious damage
If you don't resolve the overheating you're just going to melt the new wires again, and also risk more serious damage
to bleed the cooling system on a d16y8 I have to turn on the heat all the way and the fans full blast and squeeze the upper radiator hose while the car is on right?
This engine does not have a bleeder valve correct?
This engine does not have a bleeder valve correct?
I had a similar issue with the coolong system. I completely flushed radiator, block, and heater core. I refilled with coolant up until i couldnt any more. Started the car and watched the temp gauge rise to about 205 degrees. Still no heat in cabin, fans not running. I left her idling for a while. Still nothing. I thought the thermostat wasnt opening. So i thought about replacing the thermostat. Then I grew a brain - what if water is not even reaching the thermostat? Then there must be an air bubble before the thermostat and fan switch!
So...i got a hold of a funnel that fits snug in the radiator cap opening. Filled up the radiator, then let it overflow to the funnel about a quarter up. Started the car. I was watching to see if the coolant level dropped. It didnt. So at this point, im determined to find out what was going on. As the engine is running, i jacked up the front of the car to sit higher than the rear. So now top hose and engine is hot. I put on some gloves and start squeezing and massaging the lower radiator hose starting from the thermo stat housing end. I probably did this for at least 30 minutes. As i was squeezing. I can see the air bubble come up through the funnel! There was lots. I kept refilling and squeezing. Inside the cabin I now have hot air! So now i know that the thermostat is opening. Still no fan. I kept on squeeing and refilling. Then bam, my slim FAL fan comes to life! Spend some time doing this and be patient.
Hope this helped you guys with the coolant bleeding!
So...i got a hold of a funnel that fits snug in the radiator cap opening. Filled up the radiator, then let it overflow to the funnel about a quarter up. Started the car. I was watching to see if the coolant level dropped. It didnt. So at this point, im determined to find out what was going on. As the engine is running, i jacked up the front of the car to sit higher than the rear. So now top hose and engine is hot. I put on some gloves and start squeezing and massaging the lower radiator hose starting from the thermo stat housing end. I probably did this for at least 30 minutes. As i was squeezing. I can see the air bubble come up through the funnel! There was lots. I kept refilling and squeezing. Inside the cabin I now have hot air! So now i know that the thermostat is opening. Still no fan. I kept on squeeing and refilling. Then bam, my slim FAL fan comes to life! Spend some time doing this and be patient.
Hope this helped you guys with the coolant bleeding!
I bled the cooling system my fans turn on now but it still an overheat. Rather than replace a head gasket and possibly a cylinder head on a motor with 305k miles. It would be cheaper to just swap engines and be done with it.
Replace the thermostat and inspect the heater hoses for signs of wear. The heater hoses are next to the thermostat housing under the intake manifold.
Don't tap out on the engine yet, inspect and replace failure prone items first
Don't tap out on the engine yet, inspect and replace failure prone items first
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