So I just did a head gasket replacement on my engine due to sputtering, and water in cylinder #2. After everything reassembled, and driven a few miles, the sputtering has returned. Yay, me!

For those interested, I've already replaced the ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor, spark wires and plugs, and compression for #1,3,4 was at 180ish, and #2 was well over 200 (due to water?). The engine is at 172K miles.

While I had the head off, I inspected it for imperfections, and saw a small divot/channel that I thought might be the reason for the leak into #2. I'd say the channel was maybe 1/10mm, if that? Enough to catch my fingernail on. My friend, a long-time mechanic, said it's possible the new gasket and copper spray might resolve it, but he wasn't too optimistic.

What are my options at this point?

Would it be worth it to grind the head, rather than get a new one? I believe that would increase the compression, and maybe provide more power?

 

You'd have to describe what was done.

Did you check whether the head or block was cracked or whether the head and block mating surfaces were flat?

New head bolts and torqued to spec as described in service manual?

Have you now compression tested the cylinders?

What CEL codes are thrown?

 

Ditto the above, do a compression test. 94

 

How do you check for cracks? There was nothing visible to indicate such.

We checked flatness using the edge of a square. There were no highs/lows. I'm sure there are "better" tools, but that's about the best I have.

Yes, torqued per specifications.

No CEL since reassembly (30ish miles). But the missing just started in the last mile, so I expect some p301x codes soon.

Compression tests to follow ...

 

Did you compression test the cylinders prior to replacing the head gasket? Did you do a leakdown test?

Did you actively look for cracks or do you just not remember seeing any?

Flatness test is done with a precision straight edge and feeler gauges. See service manual for details.

Old bolts or new bolts? Torqued in correct sequence?

If you need to replace the gasket again, get the Honda one.

 

Also, crack testing of the head is one of the services you get done at a machine shop. Pressure testing and magnaflux dye testing will show cracks not visible to the naked eye. They will also tell you if the head is warped and needs to be planed etc. The head has to be meticulously cleaned (hot tanked) to do the dye test and is why it's best done at the machine shop that is setup for such things.

 

So let me back up a little. After the rebuild, the engine was running smoothly. Then I washed the engine so I can see any new leaks that may present themselves. I let it sit for about an hour afterward, then had to go somewhere. It was at this time that the engine began sputtering. I'm wondering if that temporarily affected engine performance until it was able to warm up and completely dry.

To answer your questions:
No leak-down test was performed, either before or after the rebuild.
I did a compression test when initially trying to determine sputter issues (before rebuild). Cylinder 2 was showing 240lbs compression. That, and water was ejected from the spark plug hole. This is what prompted the rebuild.
After rebuild, and after sputtering re-started, and after I drove the car one more time, and the sputtering stopped for that run, I did another compression test and all cylinders were showing ~180lbs.
Old bolts. It was agreed that new bolts were recommended, but not required. If I have to do this again, I'll replace the bolts.
Yes, torqued in correct sequence.

After the sputtering seems to have stopped I drove my son about 7 miles for dinner (total distance), and no further sputtering is evident. I'm also monitoring my coolant level, which was previously being consumed quickly, and the levels don't appear to have changed.

 

Washed with what?

 

you cooked your coil. water inside of distributor.

 

Washing the engine is not recommended for reasons like this. Maybe your spark wires are bad and can't stand getting wet. If you used a lot of water the spark plug tubes may have water in them. Likely the sputtering this time is not related to a bad head gasket.

Do not do anything with the head bolts unless there really is a problem with the gasket and you need to take the head off again.

 

Yup....my dad tried to pull the same **** on my sisters db7 and my mom's camry. None of them would start afterwards. I had to next them all new oem parts. Til this day he defends himself by saying he did nothing wrong.