92 civic/y8 head - Motor shakes at idle with battery ground connected
Just like the title says, when I remove ground cable from battery terminal it smooths out also too it hesitates a bit coming out of idle but once above idle very responsive.
It's a 92 civic with a y8 head and y8 intake manifold I have no cel
Thoughts and suggestions welcome. Iacv/faulty wiring
It's a 92 civic with a y8 head and y8 intake manifold I have no cel
Thoughts and suggestions welcome. Iacv/faulty wiring
Haha...with this^ critical ground removed, the engine and all electrical for the car should die. Focus on why the engine does not die.
And post a video of your engine bay.
And post a video of your engine bay.
Last edited by Former User; Aug 21, 2016 at 07:40 PM.
i know its obviuosly electrical related as you removed your negative cable
consider removing all your ground straps, sanding them down, and sanding down their contact points with the engine/chassis, and slide new 10 mm bolts in and crank everything down, test it out, if you get inconsistent grounding you could also buy a ground kit, or make your own, kinda ricey but creating more ground connections cant HURT anything, so give that a shot.
RonJ if you disconnect battery negative with engine running, in my experience the engine should carry on pumping because the alternator is juicing the electricals with the engine running, albeit not recommended. if OPs alternator is shot, then disconnecting the battery would kill the engine, yes, but it appears his alternator is functioning as it should.
OP dont disconnect battery with engine running. battery acts as a huge capacitior in your electrical system, absorbing all the voltage spikes and inconsistencies arising from your alternaotr that would otherwise fry your delicate electronics. in the old days it was cool to do the alternator test like this because they didnt have fancy ECUs or 100 sensors that could be destroyed by a voltage spike as high as 100V.
consider removing all your ground straps, sanding them down, and sanding down their contact points with the engine/chassis, and slide new 10 mm bolts in and crank everything down, test it out, if you get inconsistent grounding you could also buy a ground kit, or make your own, kinda ricey but creating more ground connections cant HURT anything, so give that a shot.
RonJ if you disconnect battery negative with engine running, in my experience the engine should carry on pumping because the alternator is juicing the electricals with the engine running, albeit not recommended. if OPs alternator is shot, then disconnecting the battery would kill the engine, yes, but it appears his alternator is functioning as it should.
OP dont disconnect battery with engine running. battery acts as a huge capacitior in your electrical system, absorbing all the voltage spikes and inconsistencies arising from your alternaotr that would otherwise fry your delicate electronics. in the old days it was cool to do the alternator test like this because they didnt have fancy ECUs or 100 sensors that could be destroyed by a voltage spike as high as 100V.
OP, try cleaning the battery cables and the G1 ground connection to the chassis.
Last edited by Former User; Aug 21, 2016 at 09:12 PM.
Ron j thanks for going straight to bashing I'm glad you are a mod...... Not, you are a idiot for not realising that's how you test a alternator. Please don't post on my threads or you will be the reason I stop using this site.
I've rechecked most of my grounds and alternator will recharge the battery even when dead. Even added ground like stated/also used a ground from jumper cables to find a good point within the bay
I've rechecked most of my grounds and alternator will recharge the battery even when dead. Even added ground like stated/also used a ground from jumper cables to find a good point within the bay
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






