I have a 1993 Del Sol that I bought with a D15 B7 motor. The engine ate a valve, so I bought a D15 Z1 motor and installed. I didn't have a P07 ECU and couldn't find one at the time. A Honda guy told me to just swap the dizzy parts from the B7 into the Z1 and it'll work fine. It did for several years, then the thing went into limp mode a few weeks back, checked the MAP sensor, the CKP/TDC and CYP sensors, plus the O2 sensor (4 wire). I then decided to get the correct ECU. I bought a P07 AOO computer, I know have 3 codes. Code 9 (CYP #1 cylinder) Code 22 variable valve timing and control pressure switch and Code 41 Oxygen sensor heater. And the engine is still in limp mode. I don't want VTEC, but sure need it to run in "normal" mode. What to do?

 

First fix code 9. That's the main problem.

Code 22 - Check the engine oil level and clean the oil screen in the solenoid.

Code 41 - Ohm test the heater element.

 

Camshaft is flat, happens all the time. Replace camshaft, problem solvent!

 

OK, On the code 9 - I checked the dizzy wires D and H ohms where not 350 to 700, I ordered a new one, should be here next Friday. You said code 22 was low oil or oil screen dirty? OIl is good, but what screen? Where is it located? The code 41 I checked the O2 heater and it was good.
Change the cam? Seriously? I've never done that, but I'm sure I can figure it out. Can I use a cam from a D15 B7?

Thanks

 

Oh ****, I was ******* around. Don't change your cam.

 

roflmao

 

Have you wired your VTEC and your 5 wire oxygen sensor up?

 

Post your actual test measurements/results.

 

Thank you for asking what the numbers were! I found 2 errors from the first time I check them.
Code 9 - the ohms between terminal D and H is 370. My Haynes book says between 350 and 700 is ok. It also tells me to check for continuity to ground on each terminal. The A terminal had 1121 ohm's. Haynes says they should show no continuity. Hope my dizzy fixes that (next Friday).

Code 41 - O2 sensor - I checked terminal A to B - Haynes says I should have 2 - 13 ohms, I got 120.

Code 22 - I haven't messed with yet.

I did hookup the vtec solenoid, but didn't do the 5 wire O2 sensor - It won't have anything to plug into, besides, I don't really care if the vtec works. This is a get around town car or my son drives it.

 

Measure resistance on the D and H wires in the ECU connector. Also do the short tests from the ECU pins.

Replace the O2 sensor with the proper D15Z1 sensor.

 

Ok, let me try to update you from where I was to where I am currently. I no longer have Code 9, 22, or 41. I have replaced the dizzy with a remanufactured unit, and replaced the O2 sensor with another 4 wire O2 sensor. I couldn't replace the sensor with a 5 wire because my wiring harness won't allow that. I also pulled the P07 a00 and put the P06 a01 back in the car. I'm not trying to run the car v-tec, I understand I'm not going to get the super high MPG. I know have code 43. I checked the new O2, A to B have 6.0 omh. I don't understand what the short test of the ECU is. FYI I did check fuel pressure - 47 psi with ignition on and 39 psi running.

 

If the engine is not having any performance problems, then focus on the two O2 sensor wires (not the heater element wires) for code 43.

Short = Short to ground = continuity to body ground

Use your multimeter to test for continuity between each wire and body ground.

 

RonJ
Did what you suggested. The 02 sensor started at .1 and went to .9 as thing heated up. I tested all the wires and they checked out except B9, but it went to the Main Relay and was fused. It looked like that was what it's supposed to do. I still am running in limp mod and have a code 43.

 

OBD-1 ECU Codes