So one day I was headed to work. I noticed on the way it was kind of hard to go into gears. Then as I was going to shift from 3rd to 4th due to slowing traffic. The clutch pedal pressed down with no effort at all and bounced back to resting position. So i checked under the hood and noticed the clutch master cylinder was leaking! I also noticed the top part of it was sticking partly up. Like a some one opened it and let fluid out on purpose. So I got the part out. 1 of the 3 screws broke in half and the other 2 were just fine. After inspecting it, all i needed was a replacement bolt. After replacing it and bleeding the system its up and running and feels more stiffer! Plus the old fluid was black!! My question is why would the top of the clutch master cylinder blow off like that and cause one of the three screws to snap? I'm pretty sure its a oem master cylinder too.

For my k20z3 what size coupler would i need for the tb? The previous owner did install a CAI but he combined a 90 degree angled coupler with a strait one and tapped them to the CIA tube. I rather not take everything apart and go to store. Being I only have one car which is the Civic.

Are stock K20z3 headers shiny? Like have a chrome look to them? I noticed mine does but previous owner says he never installed after market headers but did install the Invidia Exhaust/Muffler

 

CMC on these cars are known to have issues. Honda has updated the oem part & part number accordingly

Internal diameter for the stock TB i believe is around 70mm or 2.75" but most intakes are 3". a 3" coupler seems to work fine

Stock header is not shiny

 

Stock headers have a heat shield and are not shiny..hehe... I replaced my CMC with a EM1 (99 civic) like people suggested and it squeaked like crazy, no matter how much I greased it. I then got a used 2012 civic si one and it felt better. I would also remove the damper on the slave cylinder for better clutch feel

 

I went through a few intakes. The Injen CAI made the car break up a bit. Then I had a K&N short intake and lost alot of bottom end and the car sounded like a vacuum.
I then modified the stock air box it to act as a CAI. You just open up the resonator thats by lower part of the bumper by the fog light. No break up on the rpms and no loss of bottom end.

 

Ok thanks! So I ran into another problem....

My Phoenix gold amp goes into protection mode when the bass starts to hit. So I checked all my connections. Even reset the deck. So I finally just disconnected the audio wires from the subbox. Power cycled. When the bass hit it didn't go into protection mode. This could be bad connection on the sub or coil or the amp knows there's no cnnection so when the bass hits the amp does nothing? Hope that made sense. So I decided to take the amp audio wires and connect it to my factor sub. I did disconnect the stock audio wires connections before connecting the Phoenix amp audio wires. I turn on the key and my back speakers do not come on at all & my amp does not go into protection mode as the 2 front speakers play with bass hitting. I have the factory Inav deck. I even tried to remove the memory fuse then entered my deck code.

 

You might need a bigger ground.

 

Alright so I did a omh test on the sub. One coil is bad. Which is causing the amp to go into protect mode.

Now I'm puzzled about the back speakers still. So like I said I took the audio wires from the sub box. Detached the stock sub wires. Connected my amp audio wires to the stock sub. I did this to test the amp to see if it was the amp or my 12 inch sub(obviously found out later its my 12 inch sub causing the issue). I tired to remove the backup fuse under the hood. The radio did reset because it asked for my 4 pin. Yet they are still not working!

Are there any tests I can do? The radio fuse is fine. Obviously because the head unit works fine. Again I have the stock oem Inav head unit.

 

Update. I checked the amp fuse under the hood and it was fine. I did find a 20 fuse blown. It was labeled sub fan. I checked ♎ohms on the stock 2 back speakers and stock sub which were in range of 3.4.

I did notice when I was putting the amp fuse back in I got a spark. Is the line to the stock amp always live? I did get al12.4 volts. All this was done with the car off and key out.

I did remove the backup fuse anytime a coupe times after I did something to a fuse or wires to the back speakers or stock sub.

 

Alright. Still no luck with back speakers.

The Sub fan fuse blew again after I replaced it. Any reason why? 20. The square fuse with window on top. Fuse 12 I believe.