hi guys look I'm starting my first project alone for high school me and my dad used to deal with all motor Hondas but now I was trying to see if this setup will be good for a b18c engine turbo
pistons 8.2:1
stage 3 skunk2 cams
32mm intake valves
double springs/retainer
and a t3/t4 turbo
would that get me close to 300whp to 350whp
and also a hondata s300
gauges for the turbo like air/fuel
boost
also oil
temp
msd ignition
and a 3 or 3.5 exhaust
hmu for any options
oh btw I'm just a kid so take it easy on me
in other word respect!

 

- Piston CR is too low. Dont go lower than 9.5:1, ideally no less than 10:1
- Idk anything about those cams, but i'll bet they're overkill as well. A set of ITR's would be more than enough
- New valves not necessary
- Springs/ retainers are always a good idea, but not required
- a general "T3/T04" turbo is the approx size you want, but that's a very general size
- Hondata S300 is good, there are cheaper EMS available
- No need for MSD ignition
- 3" exhaust is plenty big

For the record, a bone stock GSR longblock will make 3-350whp with a good setup/ tune. You dont have to build it to reach those numbers, but the build will add some reliability, provided it doesn't become it's own headache. Also, consider budget as well....a good turbo setup with clutch, injectors, pump, EMS, tuning, etc is going to cost $3500-5000 without cutting corners.

 

I would agree with the above, but with aslightly altered approach:

-An MSD ignition to add to the standard system is fine. It keeps you from having to go through a lot of plugs even with a closed gap. But do NOT use an Analog system like an older 6AL. Mallory also offer less expensive digital alternatives that can work. You don't have to use an external coil , but if you want to that's fine.

-GS-R Camshafts. You don't even need Type R. The GS-R will do fine. But what you're currently using WILL HURT YOU in the tuning department, as there is too much overlap to dial out. Go back to the OEM and you'll be fine.

-Stock compression. Not sure how old your father is, but suffice it to say there is no need to drop to that low of a compression. That was a very 80's type of thinking. As stated, please stay 9.5:1 and above, for off-boost throttle response. Especially if you get the wrong turbocharger.

-ECU/EMS The FMU is way beyond old in use, and though it's worked for many years, causes more troubles than it solves. I'd stick to ECU systems that aren't using EPROM burners or "emulators" (*cough* CROME), so Hondata S300 is just fine for your needs. Make sure that you take it to a competent tuner, though, so put that in your budget. Yes, the FMU was more of a self-starter, but you don't want to put that much rising fuel pressure on a 20+ year old system.. Disaster will strike.

General size turbo What my colleague above is saying is that the term "T3/T4", "T3/T04E" etc are terms used to define mainly the housings of a class of turbocharger originally from either Garrett or Turbonetics, and doesn't describe the actual turbine and compressor wheel combinations that are within them. That means it leaves the door REALLY wide open for literally hundreds of turbocharger applications.

Be smart and stay away from CX Racing, and similar companies that are known as "eBay" companies that have "knock-off" pricing for what looks to be great turbo deals. They aren't. Stick with Garrett, Turbonetics, and Borg-Warner for your options. That way you can get support from a variety of sources in case of a repair down the line, without a lot of complication of what can fit, and what can't. That also means that you'll have a standard of measurement of the various sizes of oil feed fittings, return flanges, water lines (ALWAYS recommended despite the cost), and even inline oil filters and the like.

This way you can keep your options open to many differentcompanies that offer oil feed and oil return line kits, and you'll have a database here as to what the "common" sizes, thread pitches, and types of bolts and flanges that are needed to keep the turbo alive.

Lastly, Think about the engine itself. Do yourself a favor and go through the motions to make sure the rest of the engine is healthy enough for turbocharging. If you're going through the motions of putting in better pistons, do the rods too. Make sure that your lines and other equipment in the chassis are up to par. Especially, the idea of an upgraded clutch (you'll need it) and things like axles, CV boots, etc.

Just stuff to catch up on. Good luck.. We're here for ya, but you gotta be SPECIFIC with your questions..

 

I think you read that a bit too fast - Hit Me Up (HMU), not FMU . I had to re-read to see where he mentioned FMUs