A/C Turning on and off constantly
Hey guys. Long time lurker, I was searching but still had some questions so figured I'd post here about this. Sorry if in wrong section!
My 2008 Element (2WD Auto) just passed 100k miles. 2nd owner and AC has worked fine since 30k miles. Last week the A/C wasn't blowing cold so I took it to a mom'n'pop shop who fixed it, but were idiots claiming that I had overfilled it and blew a fuse (???) It drove fine the rest of the day, and today when I went to drive it again, the AC just cycles on and off every few seconds.
I tried the following troubleshooting:
- Replaced AC Relays in engine bay fuse box
- Checked AC related Fuses
- Put a gauge on the low side of the system, freon is showing in the correct range.
- Tried jumping cycling switch and the Compressor Blow off valve activated (a bit outside my knowledge here, idk what that means)
- Condenser is clear of any debris
I want to get away with any DIY I can before taking it somewhere else. I am thinking there may be a clog, but I do not have a manifold gauge to check the high side pressure levels. Do you guys have any suggestions I can try so that I can possibly isolate this issue?
Thanks!!
My 2008 Element (2WD Auto) just passed 100k miles. 2nd owner and AC has worked fine since 30k miles. Last week the A/C wasn't blowing cold so I took it to a mom'n'pop shop who fixed it, but were idiots claiming that I had overfilled it and blew a fuse (???) It drove fine the rest of the day, and today when I went to drive it again, the AC just cycles on and off every few seconds.
I tried the following troubleshooting:
- Replaced AC Relays in engine bay fuse box
- Checked AC related Fuses
- Put a gauge on the low side of the system, freon is showing in the correct range.
- Tried jumping cycling switch and the Compressor Blow off valve activated (a bit outside my knowledge here, idk what that means)
- Condenser is clear of any debris
I want to get away with any DIY I can before taking it somewhere else. I am thinking there may be a clog, but I do not have a manifold gauge to check the high side pressure levels. Do you guys have any suggestions I can try so that I can possibly isolate this issue?
Thanks!!
Also I just went out and checked the condenser fans on my radiator, neither one are turning on. Are they supposed to turn on when the clutch engages? The fuses on them are good.
Well, this morning I went outside and all was working fine. Took it about 2 miles down the road to get some food, and while idling it would start cycling on and off. But while driving it would stay cold for the most part. During this time the condenser fan was cutting on just fine.
Have the refrigerant, [R13a] checked, "short cycling" is a symptom of a low refrigerant charge, a nitrogen pressure test or UV dye added with a recharge will point out any leaks in the system. 94
Yeah as stated before refrigerant is not low. Checked again today and still not low. But the AC worked all day today, except in one parking lot while idling it was cycling.
The elements compressors are known for failing(usually 140k or so. However you have Expansion orifice tube(screen) built into the condenser on top that is accessible with an allen head socket. Mine had metal shavings blocking flow. I think it's about 10 bucks on rock(looks like a sock). Been a couple years ago on our 05 element. I ended up changing
out compressor also. I had cool air/then warm after it would run. Tried topping off freon but it totally plugged orifice filter. High side was blocked. You need guages, vacum pump
and had to remove grill to get to filter. We had about 145k, the ND compressor from Rock
pulley was bigger than factory pulley.So putting belt on was hard. Go to rockauto.com and look up filter(there is a picture.).
out compressor also. I had cool air/then warm after it would run. Tried topping off freon but it totally plugged orifice filter. High side was blocked. You need guages, vacum pump
and had to remove grill to get to filter. We had about 145k, the ND compressor from Rock
pulley was bigger than factory pulley.So putting belt on was hard. Go to rockauto.com and look up filter(there is a picture.).
The filter plugging will cause system shut off (high side pressure switch). Hope this helps. Our car a/c would shut off more frequently with heat/time.
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The elements compressors are known for failing(usually 140k or so. However you have Expansion orifice tube(screen) built into the condenser on top that is accessible with an allen head socket. Mine had metal shavings blocking flow. I think it's about 10 bucks on rock(looks like a sock). Been a couple years ago on our 05 element. I ended up changing
out compressor also. I had cool air/then warm after it would run. Tried topping off freon but it totally plugged orifice filter. High side was blocked. You need guages, vacum pump
and had to remove grill to get to filter. We had about 145k, the ND compressor from Rock
pulley was bigger than factory pulley.So putting belt on was hard. Go to rockauto.com and look up filter(there is a picture.).
out compressor also. I had cool air/then warm after it would run. Tried topping off freon but it totally plugged orifice filter. High side was blocked. You need guages, vacum pump
and had to remove grill to get to filter. We had about 145k, the ND compressor from Rock
pulley was bigger than factory pulley.So putting belt on was hard. Go to rockauto.com and look up filter(there is a picture.).
Go find a shop that will suck out the r134a with their recovery machine, either let them keep the freon or ask how much to filter it and recharge it. You can change the dessicant filter yourself. If they try or sell you a compressor, I was quoted $1800 bucks,
I would change the compressor myself (less than $300 with dessicant and belt) Then go
back have them pull a vacuum and charge your system. It pretty easy to change compressor 4 bolts and another where line is but access wasn't that good. I only spent
$300 plus freon, the compressor came with oil already in it. The ND compressor pulley was to big but it was 105 here in OR so I went with it anyway. It does a little bang when it starts but if you wait a little it doesn't hit warmed up. Was desperate to get GF's
a/c but I didn't contact Rock about the oversized clutch pulley. It works fine.
I would change the compressor myself (less than $300 with dessicant and belt) Then go
back have them pull a vacuum and charge your system. It pretty easy to change compressor 4 bolts and another where line is but access wasn't that good. I only spent
$300 plus freon, the compressor came with oil already in it. The ND compressor pulley was to big but it was 105 here in OR so I went with it anyway. It does a little bang when it starts but if you wait a little it doesn't hit warmed up. Was desperate to get GF's
a/c but I didn't contact Rock about the oversized clutch pulley. It works fine.
ok first , you said the fans are not working that is your problem.. when ac is on, both fans should always be on...what is happening is when you are moving you are getting flow to the condenser and cooling the super heat.. but at idle the pump is getting over heated
When the A/C comes on, does the fan spin? if it does, then its probably teh low pressure switch. And that is the one on the large line.
But. that doesn't mean the switch is bad. means your system is probably low on charge. or your air filter is real dirty.
need gauges and EPA cert to check the charge.
But. that doesn't mean the switch is bad. means your system is probably low on charge. or your air filter is real dirty.
need gauges and EPA cert to check the charge.
You're not still trying to use the ac are you?
Mine cycled on and off right before the compressor completely exploded. I wish I would have just shut it off and replaced the condensor and compressor. Instead I had to replace the whole system.
Mine cycled on and off right before the compressor completely exploded. I wish I would have just shut it off and replaced the condensor and compressor. Instead I had to replace the whole system.
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