I've put on about 4K miles sinse I did a swap and had no problems. Now the car won't start. I turn the key and it does averthing it normaly does excluding turning over. There is no check engine code. I checked the starter wires and they look connected. I also checked the starter fuse. Looks good. What else is there?....any ideas?

 

Starter itself?

 

What's the state of charge on the battery?

 

Sean... saw you driving around tonight yet again.. LOL... so I guess you fixed it.

 

That is what I think....The only other thing it might be is the sensor that is activated when you press the clutch. Where is that? I looked under the dash and couldn't see it...then again it was dark

 

possibly the starter

i have no clue how do test to see if it is the starter but when my car broke down (tried to teach my gf to drive 5spd) bcaa came to where i broke down cause i thought i needed a tow, and held a long stick to my starter while i tried to start the car, and said "its your starter kid"

but i got the car started drove to my gf's house parked it went in for dinner, then had to push start it to get home

**on a side note i was driving 5sp for maybe a month and had to drive 30 min to get home without stalling , but i made it **

 

Hey Sean... I have a D series starter... Ill sell ya cheap... just make me an offer bro.

 

BATTEREY.......lets start simple and move our way up here.

 

ditto!

 

i sorta had the same problem bro. As you guys all know my civic is never driven and in storage. well when i tryied to start it up it did the same thing. In the ingntion key hole all the lights would light up as normal,.. but as soon as i cranked it i just heard 1 click and nothing else. this is what i did.

take battery to sear(gotta love there 64 month battery warrentee )
pluged it back in.
tried starting it... same thing happed agian.
check the tension in the aletnator pully.
make sure that the battery "outlets" - & + are both in good condtion(meaning no corrosion)
also make sure that grounding is still intack.
everything ran perfect.

as for the clutch sensor thingie... i sorta felt it has to do somthing w/ that but oh well i never looked into it.

 

Just had it checked at Autozone and it cheched out fine but I'll take off the terminals and see if that helps.

EDIT: It acts as if there is no starter at all. No clicking, buzzing, turning, or anything. It's like someone stole my starter. I've had starters go bad before and had the clicking, the spinning without engaging, and the buzzing....but never like this.


[Modified by 1990hondaHF, 9:23 AM 11/8/2002]

 

does it make a clicking sound when you try to start it? oh yeah it's the starter

 

It deff sounds like you need a new starter hey and i got one for a d series motor you want it let me know

 

Do you have 12volts at the starter signal wire when turning the key?

 

Thanks, but if I get one, it will be local. There are two cheap working ones I can get for under $20.

 

Since you said that Autozone or whatever tested your BAttery to be good, we'll consider it good..

Now you should move onto testing the Starting Circuit..

You turn the key and Nothing happens.. No CLick or Crank from the Starter.. Well, then I wouldn't say that your problem is the Starter itself.. I would have to say that your problem is in your First STarting Circuit..

It only makes sense.. You turn key and nothing happens.. That means no Solenoid click.. And no Solenoid click means that there's not enough power or just power itself going to the Solenoid Coils..

What I would first do is check for power at the S Terminal on the Starter SOlenoid. It's the Terminal with the Small Wire coming from the the Ignition Switch.. You should around 10 to 11V when Cranking the Engine..

If not, move upstream and see if you've got power coming to and out of the Neutral Safety Switch or STarter/Clutch Interlock Switch..

If you don't have power there, I'd check for power coming out of the Ignition Switch..

But most likely you'll have power at the S Terminal on the STarter SOlenoid.. And with that in mind.. I'd Ohm Check the Pull In and Hold In Coils..

To do this, you must first disconnect the Battery to make sure that you don't ground the Battery and start a fire.. Next I'd take off the wire connecting to the M Terminal. With your trusty Multimeter, connect one of the test leads to the S Terminal and the other to the M Terminal.. You should get a reading of something like 3 to 4 Ohms.. And then connect to the S Terminal with one lead and to the Solenoid grounding bracket or case.. You should also get a reading there of maybe 7 Ohms..

If you don't get a reading be connecting to the S TErminal and the M Terminal, then you've got an Open Pull In COil.. But if you do get a reading and there's no Click when you turn the key to Crank.. Your problem is you've got an Open Starter.. And that can be caused by Worn Brushes and or a Dirty Commutator Bar..

I'd take the Starter out and open it up and check it out.. If you need any more info, let me know..

But remember, that's just what I'd do.. You on the otherhand can do whatever you want..

Good Luck..

 

So...the battery checks out as does the starter. Damm! I wish it was something simple! I hate dealing with little relays etc! I'm done for today. I need to got work tonight but maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to check out those ciruits PnX-R was refering to...I'll keep yall' posted. By the way, thanks for all the ideas. That is what makes boards like this a great place to spend time.


[Modified by 1990hondaHF, 1:56 PM 11/8/2002]

 

CRX's always have a problem with the MAIN RELAY... that seems to be the problem.

 

I thought that was with all hondas.. j/k..

 

New news: I can push start it and it will start right up....Does that narrow possible problems down a bit?

 

starter motor....wiring to the motor...would be my guess

 

Hey, I had that same problem with my last EF Sean... it turned out to be a loose wire... just go and make sure they are nice and on their, even if they look it... you can never be to sure... and once I did that... the little bitch started right up...

 

OK, it looks like it is the clutch switch...or what ever that switch is called that sends a signal to the starter that says it's OK to start because the cluch is pressed down....can i just bypass this thing? Where is it? Thanks.

 

How do you know that is the problem if you don't even know where it is? It's on the back of the clutch pedal bracket, above the pedal. You can unplug it and jump the connector with a paper clip to bypass it.

 

.....because I checked all other possibilities via a multi meter. By the way, I found it way up at the top of the clutch assembly and spliced it together. She starts fine now. Bling Bling! Thanks for all your help guys!