01 accord, 4 banger, error codes: p0300, 303, 304 & P1399.
#3 cylinder had 80psi, drop a bit of oil in there and shut up to 120psi. The rest are fine at 210psi. Swap out new plugs #3 is fouled.
Pulled boot off #3 not sparking, the other cylinders did idle rough.
I had a burn exhaust valve #3 last year, did the job myself. Is that reliant, who knows?
Get at me with alternative options, feedback and diagnostics.
Thanks.

 

Have someone do a leaktest, that should point to where it's leaking.

 

How do you set the ignition timing on this thing. Its off by a freaking mile. The Dizzy does not rotate to adjust the marks on the pulley.
Anyone know set the timing on this 01 accord?

 

holmesnmany, thanks, I was thinking the same thing?

 

Verify the valves are adjusted to spec.
If the timing is off, check the timing belt is correctly installed. Distributor is keyed to the camshaft and on '96-'02 cars there is no proper way to adjust the distributor. If the timing is off then the camshaft timing belt is most likely off a tooth or the belt is slack causing retarded timing.
Verify the timing belt is installed correctly and that the crank to camshaft timing is correct.

 

I took the plume apart and clean out all the carbon build up, that was a lot of crap. Clean out the EGR port channel. Fired her up and she is running stronger, the timing marks surprisingly lined up. Cylinder #3 went up to 120 PSI.
Still got the original dreaded error code p0303 & p1399. So I went chasing the next issue, the fuel injector, so swap out #3 over to #1 thinking if its gonna miss fire it should follow the faulty injector over. Well, it did not happened, but rather got error code P1399 & p1259.
Now I'm leaning towards air fuel mixture, possibly double check the latch on the valves. Other than that I'm a bit clueless.
Any ideas?

 

The timing kick in by itself.
Clean out the plume
EGR
EGR port
valve lach
new sparks plugs, cap, rotter, and wire set.
check injectors for clicking. Even swap out injector #3 over to #1, no difference.
My psi on #3 max out at 110, its as good as its gonna get.
I'm still dealing with p1399 multiple misfire, this is the only error code from taking this in to be smog.
What am I missing here?

 

You're missing the leakdown test I suggested AND the valve adjustment Mike suggested.

 

Update. I'm down to random misfire code, forgot what it is. I dealing with a intake manifold leak, tested it, and I may double check the dissy. I'm looking for a back up really to swap out to see if there is any noticeable differences. I will post up at a later time, if hotter than crap here in NoCal to be working on cars.

 

& I'm back. I'm still dealing with p1399. My intake bolts were loose as a goose, top and bottom, took them as far as a can go before snapping them. Engine is shaking at idle and under 45, but once I get on the freeway the thing runs perfect. I'm gonna swap out distributor with my buddy who has a loaner for me and I'm gonna check the EGR valve to see its working properly, I think its electrical and may need a sticky. Anyone?
Ooops! Almost forgot. I'm gonna check and reset the base idle sped, base ignition. What ever its called. I'm so on top of my freaking game here. Peace

 

If it is an intake manifold gasket issue then the vacuum leak issue would clear up at higher engine speeds with the throttle opened more. Check your PCV system is not faulty.
Back probe all applicable sensors as well. PCM is OBDII, but it is still a SD system and not the 'smartest'.

 

RIP this car blew its engine today, took her to the local junk yard. Adios y hasta vista baby.