So I was doing my timing belt and misread some torque specs, thinking it said 40ft lbs of torque, it actually required 40 inch lbs of torque, and I pull the threads clean out of the bolt hole. The bolt that I'm referring to is the locker bolt for the timing belt tensioner. What size bolt is suppose to be used for that? And whats the next size up? I'm going to use cutting fluid as well as the next size bigger, and recut the threads into that hole with the new bolt itself. I cant run my car without the tensioner being locked, otherwise itll just chew up the timing belt. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

Use a helicoil.

 

I believe the bolt you are referring to is an M6 x 1.0mm.

You could try an M6x1.0 helicoil or timesert, if you have a garage or parts store handy that will sell you one, instead of having to buy a complete kit.

If not, the next bolt size up is an M8 x 1.0. That would require a metric 7.0mm drill bit or standard J (0.276") drill bit for that size tap.

 

Well the problem is, I dont have a cherry picker and I cant maneuver the engine that much so I have to be able to do this while its still halfway mounted inside the vehicle. I was thinking of taking the next bolt size up and using cutting fluid and the bolt itself to cut new threads into that bolt hole. Is that a big no no or do you think it could work? I cant drive the car until I get this fixed :C

 

Sorry, there is no way that a larger bolt will cut it's own threads into the block. You need to drill and tap new threads into the block.

So in this case it would be better to get a helicoil/timesert kit.

Other than that You might be able to lower the engine & cross member in the bay and jack up the chassis in order for you to get a few more inches and get straight at the bolt hole through the drivers side wheel well.

 

Timesert it.

 

Ok, so I called up a few nearby places and they got some helicoil kits, freaking 40 bucks T.T lol. Anyways, how do I know what size I need? Im pretty sure I pulled the threads clean out of that hole. Do yall by chance know what helicoil size I'm going to need in order to get this done appropriately?

 

Helpful kits are sized based on the size of the boot you are going to use.

 

Thats what im trying to figure out, I need the OEM bolt size spec so I can pick the appropriate helicoil set. The car is a 1993 Honda Accord F22A1 Engine.

 

Ghost posted the bolt size. It's straight from the Helms manual.

 

Is this the bolt with the nut sticking thru the timing cover? If so it's an M8x1.25 thread.

If it's the small bolt that you use to temporarily lock the tensioner, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as it's just there for temp use (it doesn't even get a bolt after the belts are on and properly adjusted). You could go with a 1/4-20 tap and thread it that way (or find a self tapping 1/4-20 screw), but I've changed belts without needing that "lock" bolt in place. The biggest key is getting the tensioner on the pin (to the right of the large bolt that actually holds the tensioner for the main timing belt and the balancer belt) so the tensioner will do it's job. I only say that, as neither Haynes nor the FSM discuss changing the timing belt tensioners.
Get the first tensioner on the long bolt, then get it on the pin, then slip the balancer tensioner in place, and just lightly snug up the nut/washer combo. Now install the main timing belt from the bottom up, and loosen the nut a little (so the tensioner spring does it's job), then lightly snug it back in place. Then with the balancer shafts lined up, add that belt, and then slightly back off the tensioner nut again, and slip the belt under it. Let the spring tension it, then proceed with turning the engine over CCW 6 times to help set the tension on both belts (this checks to see if your hitting anything, and that you're back to TDC on #1 piston). Then rotate the engine 3 teeth CCW and back off the tensioner nut, letting the springs do their job, then tighten the nut again. You should be done now.
I hope this helps.

 

This may seem crazy but does work......you can clean the hole out with degreaser, take the same size bolt and take JB weld fill the inside of the hole with JB weld and put the bolt all the way in, let it fully cure remove the bolt and install it all back together...at 40 inch lbs. the jb will easily hold it no issue.....i know this works from personal experiences and have done this on motor mounts with the same issue and never had issues

 

That might help under some cicrumstances but the springs that are used on the tensioner system are pretty loose. So I have to use that locking bolt for the timing belt tensioner. I got the helicoil and everything. Just got get a drill and find a way to position the engine in such a manner than I can get to it. Is it possible to pull the engine over the front driver side fender? With the removal of some engine mounts? Thats about the only way I can think doing it because I dont have jacks large enough to lift the frame over the engine block.

 

Late to the game...
Friggin this.

'95s was stripped out to temporarily hold the bolt. I freaked, went through the whole process of locating a proper tap/coil/bolt/etc and wasted a whole day 'fixing' this fuckup.

I haven't used it since the first time. Did the timing belt on the '97 and was finalizing torque specs before the cover went on before I remembered I was supposed to lock down the inner tesnioner while installing the balance belt.


As long as the sprockets are correctly timed, the springs apply the correct amount of tension. Rotate the crank 3teeth over to verify tension, lock down the tensioner nut and recheck timing once more. If the timing is right and the belts are tensioned correctly by the springs, you are good to go.

 

Yup, the first time I ever used that bolt hole was on my wife's 2000 Accord. It was also the first time I ever changed the timing belt, and the balancer belt on a Honda (was in there doing a water pump that was leaking). Once I figured out what was going on that first time, I thought WTF do you really need that bolt for?, as I'm in here replacing the tensioners too (bought the Aisin water pump and belt kit, which comes with new tensioners, and new Honda springs). You only need that bolt hole if you're changing just the belts. D'oh. When I did my 97 Accord, I did it like I described a couple of posts up. Worked like a charm, never used that little bolt, and I've already had the engine turning close to rev line (gotta love a stick).
The thing is, the balance shaft belt doesn't really see a lot of tension on it either (found that out when the seal on the front shaft walked out of it's hole and dumped 2 quarts of oil in 30 feet in the driveway). Added the Dorman seal retainer and new seal, slipped the balance belt back on, and buttoned everything up again. Already put a bunch of miles on it, including a trip to Texas and back (from Michigan), no issues with either belt or the car itself.

 

Yeah, well the springs dont give nearly enough tension and the timing belt wabbles like a ****. So Im gonna helicoil that bolt hole and tighten her down to make sure it goes nowhere, i dont have the money atm to replace the tensioner system.

 

If you're not getting enough or any tension on the main tensioner spring, then the tensioner is off the dowl pin. You gotta get it on the pin, or you won't get any tension out of the springs (that's their job, to tension the tensioners and belts).

 

If you have the idler pulleys properly mounted on their respective pivots, you will want to verify the parts you have.

What engine are you working on?

SOHC VTEC engines use a 112 tooth belt.
SOHC non VTEC engines use 113 tooth belt.

A non VTEC belt on a VTEC engine will NEVER be properly tensioned.

 

Thanks Mad Mike. I was wondering IF there was a difference in the 2 belts. I know my wife's F23A1 uses a different belt from my F22B2. But I always wondered if the F22B1 and B2 used the same belt. I only say that, as it seems quite a bit of the VTEC stuff is different from the non-VTEC stuff.

 

I'm working on the F22A1, thats a non vtec engine.