CRX ZC race car no spark
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Guy has pretty much made a hackjob of the harness
I just need the basics so the engine will run
looks like a long hard road ahead unfortunately
I hooked up the battery and was going to run some tests
I turned the key on and the main relay began clicking really fast and a light on the ECU was blinking as it clicked
I do have power to connector B of the ICM
what are these 2 wires?
I just need the basics so the engine will run
looks like a long hard road ahead unfortunately
I hooked up the battery and was going to run some tests
I turned the key on and the main relay began clicking really fast and a light on the ECU was blinking as it clicked
I do have power to connector B of the ICM
what are these 2 wires?
Just found thermostat ground wastn connected , that problem amended
maIn relay stopped clicking still no spark
I tried to check the coil I got a reading of .9 which was out of the range
I tried to get the other reading but not sure what setting to put ohmeter on
maIn relay stopped clicking still no spark
I tried to check the coil I got a reading of .9 which was out of the range
I tried to get the other reading but not sure what setting to put ohmeter on
Last edited by Civic Racer X 7; May 2, 2016 at 02:15 PM.
ECU throwing code 10 - 13 and 20
I "believe all from unplugged circuits this guy has a wiring mess
its just a bare race car would my best best be to get an engine harness or body harness from a junkyard?
dont you have to modify the stock CRX harness for ZC swap?
I "believe all from unplugged circuits this guy has a wiring mess
its just a bare race car would my best best be to get an engine harness or body harness from a junkyard?
dont you have to modify the stock CRX harness for ZC swap?
how much you need to modify depends on whether the original harness was for a DPFI car or MPFI car
DPFI - you need to use the original DPFI engine harness and add wiring for the injectors, add injector resistor box and add wiring for the cylinder sensor
MPFI - you need to use the original MPFI engine harness and change the connector at the distributor and extend the wires for the cylinder sensor, which is on the end of the exhaust camshaft
DPFI - you need to use the original DPFI engine harness and add wiring for the injectors, add injector resistor box and add wiring for the cylinder sensor
MPFI - you need to use the original MPFI engine harness and change the connector at the distributor and extend the wires for the cylinder sensor, which is on the end of the exhaust camshaft
ran a series of tests today
Coil IS getting power and is within specs
I am purchasing an LED test light to check ICM signal and determine if its bad or not
only thing left other than ICM is the cam angle sensor
any input?
Coil IS getting power and is within specs
I am purchasing an LED test light to check ICM signal and determine if its bad or not
only thing left other than ICM is the cam angle sensor
any input?
Can anyone tell me what these wires are?
They come out of the distributor
Would like to know their purpose
http://s32.postimg.org/aa3axkrgl/imagee.jpg
They come out of the distributor
Would like to know their purpose
http://s32.postimg.org/aa3axkrgl/imagee.jpg
Been testing around with the test light and found something quite odd
The distributor case anywhere has power, the test light lit up
So I got the multimeter and tested the power lead 12.5 volts
Anywhere in the case I get 7 volts
Something has to be shorting inside this distributor
The distributor case anywhere has power, the test light lit up
So I got the multimeter and tested the power lead 12.5 volts
Anywhere in the case I get 7 volts
Something has to be shorting inside this distributor
OK, back to basics, check/redo your main grounds, batt. to chassis and chassis to engine, DO NOT just eyeball them, disconnect/clean/reconnect.
Also, did you confirm power at IGP1 and 2??? 94
Also, did you confirm power at IGP1 and 2??? 94






