I need some help with witch is better for now(1week to a month) to run my b18c5 (has cp low compression Pistons ace bearings but not exactly sure cuz bought of a guy locally). But my car is a 98 Integra Gsr with type r motor. I bought it with a b20vtec in it with a obd1 harness and p61 ecu with a chip in it. Two weeks ago car died on me replaced alternator(witch crack right thru it somehow) and after noticed fuse 15(alt fuse) was blown replaced it and blown again. So bypass the alternator wire to my blower motor relay so it will charge and prove the alt ok. Then I would get code17 vss. That lasted 5 days till car would jault sometimes or bog down but keep running and give me code 69 (witch I can never find 69). Then it wouldn't start that night took a week to get it fixed. I ended up having a p28 so I tried it that night and never started the car but I cut off my loose hanging connectors (O2 and secondary O2 the purge connector and cruise connector since none were hooked up they had corrosion on the plugs. Tried the p28 again and it started up ran till warmed up then I tried a p72obd1 I had but looks rough on out side screw rusted in can't open it. And started and ran ok. Both p28 and p72 I get code 41(02heater) and code23 knock sensor. I have a aem wideband hooked up and no knock sensor in the car. So now I'm driving on the p72 but my real question is witch would be the better to drive on since I can't get ither tuned for 2 weeks ?? Sorry for the story just thought might help. I have the p28 out and could get it socketed and hondada is my plan but is it ok to drive on the p72. Sometimes looses power and gets it back around 2-3000 rpm any idea why? Thanks so much for any help .

 

I need
some h
elp with w
itch is bette
r for now(1w
eek to a month
) to run my b18c
5 (has cp low comp
ression Pistons ace be
arings but not exactly su
re cuz bought of a guy loca
lly). But my car is a 98 Integr
a Gsr with type r motor. I bough
t it with a b20vtec in it with a obd1
harness and p61 ecu with a chip in it
. Two weeks ago car died on me replace
d alternator(witch crack right thru it some
how) and after noticed fuse 15(alt fuse) was
blown replaced it and blown again. So bypass
the alternator wire to my blower motor relay so
it will charge and prove the alt ok. Then I would g
et code17 vss. That lasted 5 days till car would jault
sometimes or bog down but keep running and give me
code 69 (witch I can never find 69). Then it wouldn't sta
rt that night took a week to get it fixed. I ended up having
a p28 so I tried it that night and never started the car but I
cut off my loose hanging connectors (O2 and secondary O2 th
e purge connector and cruise connector since none were hooked
up they had corrosion on the plugs. Tried the p28 again and it sta
rted up ran till warmed up then I tried a p72obd1 I had but looks rou
gh on out side screw rusted in can't open it. And started and ran ok. Bo
th p28 and p72 I get code 41(02heater) and code23 knock sensor. I have
a aem wideband hooked up and no knock sensor in the car. So now I'm dri
ving on the p72 but my real question is witch would be the better to drive on s
ince I can't get ither tuned for 2 weeks ?? Sorry for the story just thought might
help. I have the p28 out and could get it socketed and hondada is my plan but is I
t ok to drive on the p72. Sometimes looses power and gets it back around 2-3000 rp
m any idea why? Thanks so much for any help .


fixed it for you . now my OCD is happy

 

P28 P72... IAB function on a P72. you have to run external program anyway. if you want IAB's go P72

 

u can always chipe the p28 to run iab LOL i did.. But i also ave a chipped p72..

Personally , i like NO IAB. i usually leave my butterflies open on my SMog GSR motor anyways when i daily..

 

Theres no benefit in disabling iab its been dyno proven to lose power over and over
But people still do it for some reason

 

Ive mine set up to open iabs at the same time as my vtec crossover. I prefer it this way.

 

Wait, are you suggesting that they went through all the trouble and cost to design, calibrate, and manufacture the system and it works? No way

But, the engine in question doesn't have a dual runner manifold, so IABs aren't important here.

OP, your punctuation sucks and makes it painful to try and get information out of your post.

You're not getting a knock sensor code on the P28, it doesn't have one. The fact that you are getting the code on the P72 seems pretty obvious since you said you have no sensor. The error can be shut off when chipping/programming. The heater code is there because you have no heater since you are running a wideband and cut the original sensor out. There are two ways to get rid of that code. One is to build a resistor to trick the ecu, the other is to shut off the error within the settings when you chip/program the ecu.

Stop hacking off wires.

 

Honda doesn't know better. butt dyno never lies lol

OP neither ecu will run your low compression type r none of the options you have are even close to what the car needs
and you will kill your wideband by having AFR swings constantly from untuned motor

 

Thanks everyone for there post. I guess I'll just have to get the p72 I'm running now for a week tuned asap. Sorry for the long story and bad punctuation I was on break and needed to get some help. Thanks for all the input.

 

Sorry meant I'll get the p28 chipped and tuned asap since it's not in the car right now.