I have a 1988 Honda Civic wagon rt4wd with a stock MPFI D16A6. Is there a way to make the engine make the car accelerate quicker . Right now it's 0-60 in about 10.2 seconds . Is there a way to drop it down to 8 even 7 seconds without turbo boosting ?

 

yes.

 

You can get 140-160whp without too much effort on a d16a6 (basically a new top end: ported/milled head, cam, intake, exhaust, etc)

It's past 160 or so that you'll start getting compression and duration figures so high that it won't be that streetable . . . IE run on pump gas and idle well enough for power brakes.

 

Or change your gearing and final drive ratio.

 

Let's see a dyno sheet that supports this. You're talking about a 50% bump in horsepower "without too much effort"?

 

STRATTON's ALL MOTOR ed9 d16a6 resto-mod + dyno#s - D-series.org

It's a stock a6 block, stock a6 crank, stock rods with ARP bolts, .5mm oversize, stock z6 intake and throttle body, ebay 4-2-1 header, ported head, junker Delta 282 cam, 11:1 comp and runs on 93

Check post #8

With the cam gear retarded 6 degrees we ended up with 159whp 126wtq @7k rpm.

 

About the only thing NOT built on that engine is the rods....

 

wat does retarding the cam gear do?

 

Maybe you guys just don't go into dso . . . there's a handful of ~11:1, ~270* duration, z6/edelbrock intake cars making over 140whp.

Either way, mill the head as much as possible, run a y8 hg, port it, run a z6/y8/edelbrock intake, reground cam, $50 4-2-1 ebay header and get the thing tuned and you'll be over 140whp. It's not magic or anything.

The bigger cams (Gorilla, delta 282, etc) will get you the 160 mark as peak HP comes in after 7,500RPM.

 

Please explain how this is done "without too much effort". This is called a build and it requires a complete tear down with machining.

- Bored block
- Mild port
- 11:1 pistons
- 1mm Oversized valves
- 10k valve springs
- Delta cam
- 600cc injectors
- p28 w/ s300
- 2.5 exhaust
- Head studs/rod bolts

Giving OP hope that this is somehow easily obtainable is ridiculous.

 

Maybe you just don't do your own work?

There's not a single part there that cost more than $200 outside of the ECU. He didn't NEED s300, it could easily be done with cheapskate turboedit.

Again, throw a completely milled head (.080+) on a STOCK shortblock with a $120 reground Delta 272 or 282 cam, $30 y8 headgasket, $100 z6 or y8 intake, $50 ebay header and you can make over 140whp. You don't need new pistons to get to 11:1 . . . you can take at least .080" off of the head and lose .012" on the HG over the graphite b1/b2/b7/a6 one.

ANYONE that has a die grinder and can port a head will be in the motor for maybe $400-500 if you pick up parts on the cheap from forums/FB/CL.

 

My goodness. Okay, thank you.

 

I'll vouch on the basis of higher compression. I had mistakenly taken off .060" on my own head and even that alone resulted in a much peppier motor. I'd also say that I'd agree that doing your own work is the key difference. Outside of the valve/port work, the labor is pretty much the same as a stock rebuild but your using non stock items.

 

You seem to know so much about my build . You make it sound so cheap or easy.

Do you know how many threads ive read that have spanned almost over 10 years of people building all motor singles. not many have cracked 160whp, a handful have cracked 170whp, i cant find a single 180whp sheet, ive seen maybe 3-4 all motor singles in the twelves on video.

its not as easy as it seems. i am still on a stock z6 manifold and tb, and a cheap ebay 4 2 1. These parts will be upgraded to custom ones built for my set up in due time. With that being said, it speaks volumes about the engine that was built. Myself and my tuner spent alot of time at the dyno as well. I pulled the turbo-edit ecu out as no one tunes on that dinosaur anymore, keeping a old honda with a sohc relevant requires some evolution with the times.

Right now I purchased a trans with a zc dohc gear stack, ats 4.7 final and im installing a m-factory lsd. this alone cost 2k. Do the math.

I do get what your getting at, but in a way your disrespecting my build, there was alot of money, time, and planning to pull these numbers from an all motor 1.6 single on 93 octane.

Stratton.

 

I use the same name there.
My a6 has:
3 inch intake with velocity stack
Integra TB
Edelbrock performer x
H22a4 injectors
Aem fpr
Walbro 190lph fp
Pg6b pistons
Stock rods with arp rod bolts
Isky valve springs
Rebuilt stock head
Brand new oem retainers and keepers
Crane 0012 (stage 2) cam
Skunk2 alpha header
Pwm 2.5 test pipe
Tanabe exhaust
Hondata s300
11lb flywheel
Mfactory Lsd in the trans
Plm wideband
New pumps and gaskets.

The only work i farmed out was short block assembly. Everything else i have done in home. Tuning too. Compression is around 12:1. No dyno yet...i manage 32-34 mpg per tank, and based on fuel injector duty cycle i could be making as high as 160 crank hp....which i know I'm not, i might make it with that cam but I'm also confident ignition tuning is badly needed and fuel could be improved.


It was not quick or easy it was a full rebuild. And i still need 500 dollars to dyno tune...

 

Outside of Bisimoto, how many actual performance shops have put serious work into a D-series? Outside of Bigtuna, Jabaay, etc, how many guys put serious work into a d-series, let alone a non-vtec one?

90% of the D-series builds I see are from guys with barely enough money to own a civic let alone build one up. It's a side hobby/general distraction from their normal lives and it's usually mix and match junkyard parts if it's a N/A build or they take the advice of 99% of the people responding in threads to turbo it.

The technology is there to run way faster than Bisi's 10.70s but no one does it because there's no return save bragging rights.

Just like kp's posts, the dyno graphs out there are WAY more indicative of the people (and their budgets) building d16s than what a d16 is capable of.

While Hondata is lightyears beyond Turboedit, I hope you realized I said you didn't need it to make that amount of HP. You could pull all of that FI stuff off and run webers and still make the HP.

The point is that you are using commonly available parts with easy to do machine work at most any decent machine shop.

You aren't building a cut/welded/ported head, custom 16:1 pistons, cut crankshaft, myers/sheepy hood exit header, billet camshaft, itbs, methanol build, which is my original point.

Needs port work

 

not even going to bother. same reason i havent posted here since 2013.

Stratton.

 

A lot of you guys gave me good advice . But I don't have much cash so can't do much . All I was able I was able to do was buy a 4-3-1 header and a High flow cat test pipe . I don't know if there are other parts like that that would help on this project

 

The easiest and cheapest will be a d16z6 intake manifold and throttle body and an ebay 4-2-1 header and exhaust. the stock cat will flow way more than enough to dont mess with unless its busted. The other thing to do even before that is tune up, spark plugs, cap and rotor, check resistance of plug wires and maybe clean the injectors as well.

 

So it would be a bad idea to use the high test pipe cat that I got ? What could happen if I use that high flow test pipe ?

 

A test pipe is just an empty pipe that replaced the cat. It's "high-flow" because it doesn't have any of that honeycomb you see in your stock cat. You will fail emissions and your exhaust will stink. You won't notice any power increase whatsoever.

It's probably shiny though, I hear that's cool.

 

OH. So it's more for looks then. And because it has no honeycombs I am assuming that you will be smelling raw gas every time you use your car . Cool. Thank you for the advice . I will stick with the stock one on then .

 

At stock or near stock power you are better off with the stock cat. Stock Honda cats are really good overall, with an h22 i dynoed the same power on a stock f22 cat as i did on a test pipe

 

I have, I just don't post the graphs (save for one, 155whp/133wtq 75.5x90). No need to cut the crank, much better out there than Myers or Sheepy, no such thing as a billet cam, a good IM/TB/intake combo will make the same power as ITB's. Link to a big build you have done?

 

My example was to show my idea of what motor combination would take some effort (see post #3)

That's odd . . . the blanks look like this:





In fact I'll be cutting one from 4340 as soon as the material gets here, probably next monday or tuesday.